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xychix

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Posts posted by xychix

    Series III temperature gauge

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    hmmmm on working rev's (would guess around 2500rpm) in neutral it ends up staying in the middle and stays there during my full test run. about 20 minutes.

    Temp in the radiator seems to be ~66 degrees steady celcius. (cheap chinese meter that would easily do more than 10% off)

    Will now have it all cool down and do a full run while metering the radiator as well.

    Series III temperature gauge

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    Might it just be that cooling a working 109 series III 2.25di on a 36 degrees day uphill just doesn't work?

    It even touched red today a few times. Some driving downhill made the temp drop a little again. Enough fluid in there and due to the fact that it does somehow manage to cool back down I assume the thermostat is working. (or is that an dangerous assumption?)

    What are the cooling bottlenecks on 109 2.25di? As they are driven in africa they should have a good cooling system right?

    Oil pressure values

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    I've got a oil pressure sensor attached at the back of the oil pump.

    The gauge on the dash gives

    2 kg/cm2 (15 lb/o ??)

    Which is lower than the first quarter of the gauge. Gut feeling tells me this is to low.

    The gauge is powered 13.9 Volts with running enginge and gets 4.8 Volts on the sensor line. A extra ground was added.

    Does anyone have info on what I should want there? (in volts and in kg/cm2)

    Fitting a up28 hella braka vacuum, a great succes!

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    Here a album with some pictures :).

    Took power from the unfused end of fuse 6 (where the big brown wire comes in). Fused it myself currently 30 Amps, should be more than enough, planning to run the 12V socket on this same fuse. The previous owner ran a wire unfused and unprotected to the battery. As you can imagine.... that had to go!

    • Like 1

    Fuel pick up gauze U/S any alternatives?

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    Could be that nothing is better than your existing fuel tank gauze. Its common to run without them.

    If your Series land Rover is wired as standard its unlikely that the fuse could be the cause of problems as the lights are unfused. Usual culprits are bad earth - and corrosion between the bulb holder cap and the lens unit. The bulb circuit is from one of the solder terminals on the base to the cap which must therefor be earthed.

    exactly, still don't understand why the have the lights unfused!! :(

    is there a valid explanation? I'm thinking of fusing the last missing stuff.

    Series III temperature gauge

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    If there was sealant I wouldn't measure 76ohm to battery negative (or engine as earth)...

    now I've red some more... It might be worth mentioning the heater doesn't work.... maybe still themostat open all the time??

    will replace the sender anyhow.

    replaced and working. However... I get the exact same reading as the topic starter... Just below the red HOT. but it stays there.

    Probably a 80+ thermostat but I'll see if I can get a good reading on the voltage regulator (if I can find it) and replace it with a LM7810 + 100uF and 10uF capacitators. Sould be 3 minutes of soldering, some hot glue and some tape :)

    Fitting a up28 hella braka vacuum, a great succes!

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    Can I suggest you keep the oil bath? It is very free-flowing and is better at cleaning the air than the K&N type filters, plus you don't need to worry about the filter being clogged with oil mist from the breather. Oil bath filters are self-cleaning, just needing the sediment removed on the service schedule, but don't gradually get dirty and clogged like element filters. I only have a K&N because I have a Tdi and it is prone to soggying the paper filter.

    Will do for now. First see what I can win with new fuel filters :)

    Fitting a up28 hella braka vacuum, a great succes!

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    Hi xychix,

    What this all about? Is it an electric vacuum pump that replaces the clockwork vacuum and coffee can supply for the brakes? Meaning that the air intake is now unrestricted?

    Photos, information and general idea very much appreciated!

    I'll make some foto's later today and describe (maybe even draw out) the wiring.

    And YES, electric vacuum pump UP28 means air intake is only restricted by my oil bath filter now, K&N should help a bit more. New fuel filters and offcourse the oil that has fallen out should make this a happy 2.25di

    It does give 'some' coffee to the brake pressures but don't expect much better braking just slightly lighter.

    The main gain is 'air' for the engine. Meaning also less smoke at MOT (in France = CT)

    Fitting a up28 hella braka vacuum, a great succes!

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    I've fitted my Volvo UP28 vacuum pump to give my series III 109 2.25di engine some more air. The difference is remarkable (which likely means the air intake vacuum valve wasn't adjusted properly).

    The engine clearly gets more are, slopes where I had to go back to 3rd now can be taken in 4th. The valve isn't removed yet but for now kept open with a steel wire.

    Braking is connected to the wire that powers the braking lights, that steers a relay that in it's turn switches on a 35A fused hot wire to the pump. Both pump and relay have gotten fresh and strong earthings as I don't want to loose brakes due to a famous bad earth :)

    I've placed the pump at the location of the wiper washer reservoir os that was missing and the washer pump is broken.

    [SIII 109 1980 2.25di] wires to back of master brake cylinder

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    There are a variety of places for the brake light switch to be located, all genuine LR. If I remember right, my 109 actually has 3 switches because of the variety of parts that have been used over the years

    thanks, let me rephrase.

    The 2 connectors at the back of the master drum can only be a switch? not something critical for the braking itself ? ie. some power to a valve that releases the vacuum or so?

    [SIII 109 1980 2.25di] wires to back of master brake cylinder

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    Hi,

    I've found a switch behind my brake pedal that hits the brake lights when braking, also there seems to be some sort of switch/sensor in the back of the master brake cilinder.

    Also it occurred to me as if the pedal switch was installed later on (guessed by the mess in the wiring).

    Question: is it correct that the brake light switch it at the master cilinder and not behind the pedal (in that case my 109 has been modified and i can discard the thing in the back of the master)

    I'm planning on placing a hella up28 pump (aquired one already from an volvo) and was looking for the wire to tap into to steer the relay.

    Oil leakage at wheels again...

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    +1 for one shot grease rather than ep80w90

    Edit: and if that's your only leak you are doing well!

    Or, its all empty?

    haha

    gearbox, reductionbox, and engine just mark their spot a bit.

    Front axle seems to have a drip hanging but won't call that a leak, rear axle is bone dry... hmm worrying compared to the rest, will check that out.

    Oil leakage at wheels again...

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    I've replaced the hub seal as oil was seeping into the drum brakes (front left), now on the same side the swivel seal is leaking :(

    Car was parked for a mont and a big stain next to the tyre, as I'm not in the position to redo this for now, I'm lookin for a quick fix.

    I'm in the last phase of healing of a broken shoulder blade (Amsterdam, bike crash), driving without PAS is already a challenge, let alone ripping the car apart.

    Would it help to add some ATF oil to the 80w90 in the swivel to soften up the seal a bit? Would it do extra damage trying this?

    thanks

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