xychix
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Posts posted by xychix
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I'm more than happy with my TirFor hand winch, heavy work but does the job! Without compromising looks and minimal brakedown failure.
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there is only one winch for a series, and that is a PTO!
Oef, no tirfor job that is. Unless you'd bring a tent and take a few days.
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I've pondered on this over the years. To me, the modern electric winches just don't look right on an Series. If I could find a period capstan or drum winch at a sensible price, I might be tempted. That said, I've had the S! for twenty years and have never been in a situation that my Tirfor couldn't get me out of.
I'm pretty sure a good tirfor will get more done than any winch only it will take time and muscle.
My choice also is a tirfor with a 1.6 ton lifting capacity. Meaning it will pull about 4 times that before the shear pin breaks... ~6.4 tonnes should be plenty to get my SIII out of nasty stuff. 1.6 tonnes might even be just enough to park my SIII 15 meters high in a tree.
I've got a 15M cable and a 9 meter normal 4x4 towing strap. Combined with 2 2meter tree straps and some good D Shackles it should get all jobs done.
Good thing is you can just pop it into any car at wish
and the best:
- it doesn't mess up the looks of the car (althoug a capstain is coool)
- it costed me only 80 Euro's second hand (which is quite a bargain, but for 150 you should find one)
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Hi all my SIII 109 will run 4x4 in high when I press the lever. However in Low it seems to sometimes run low and sometimes not.
Figured it out when I got stuk on a grassy slope, rear was slipping only (2nd gear in Low). Switching to 1st in High and reapplying the 4x4 knob took me up the hill easily.
How can this happen? what to look for?
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I'm assuming Detroits talked about is Limited Slip Diff. Be aware then that these have friction plates that will wear out. So a cheap 2nd hand set might be useless.....
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Buy a dog and make it think the back of the series is his home
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Here in France, our SWB diesel Series has a MTW (Max. Allowed Trainweight (Vehicle + trailer) 4.646 kgs. - leaving 3.500 kgs. for the trailer if fitted with overrun brakes. Regardless of the fact that LR themselves state in the handbook that 3.000 kgs. is max. Regarding "type approval" for towbars. Depending on where you live, how the vehicle is registered and in what year you may - or may not - fit anything with a 50 mm. ball. Or jaw in certain countries.
But the questions is, obviously, if towing 3.5 tonnes with a Series Three 2.25 diesel is wise in modern traffic..
in that case....
my numbers (.france also) might add up to:
1367 kg empty ???
2765 kg full
4765 kg max train
4765 - 1367 = 3398kg trailer. But then that would assume it runs on diesel vapour, doesn't have oil and there's no driver
Depending on where you live, how the vehicle is registered and in what year you may - or may not - fit anything with a 50 mm. ball. Or jaw in certain countries.
But the questions is, obviously, if towing 3.5 tonnes with a Series Three 2.25 diesel is wise in modern traffic..
Additionally Loxam wouldn't allow my to pull a 2 tonne mini-digger on a trailer with my dutch Sorento (2800kg allowed in NL) as i only had a towball withouth the yellow clamb on top they seem to use in France.But that's a bit off topic
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My series 109 french vehicle registration list as:
1367 kg empty ???
2765 kg full
4765 kg max train
however all numbers indicate they didn't have a clue and just put something on paper
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Remember though, that is a single axle trailer. Tandem axle is 3500kg. Over here, the authorities regard the coupled braking system as the same as overrun. The only difference is that with overrun, you have to use two safety chains and with coupled brakes, you cannot have safety chains.
don't believe it works like that in France (it doesn't in the Netherlands for sure)
On the otherhand, I don't see my old 2.25di pull > 2000kg.
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On page 04-12 of the Series III Repair Operation Manual is the following in the attachment.
This matches my french series III 109.
It states 2000 kg on overrun brakes.
My Ford transit does 1800 kg on overrun brakes
a Nissan Patrol, Kia Sorento (2007), Land Rover Defender 110 will all tow 3500kg on overrun brakes
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Powering it by
On my series, I put a fuel stop solenoid from a Truck inside the chassis rail. The fuel line went into the chassis then popped out in the engine bay. The wiring came out of a different hole. Threading all the tubes & getting the solenoid in was tricky - but possible.
I connected several of the lights to relays so they needed to be on / off in the right combination to supply power to the solenoid. When the engine was running, the solenoid was powered by the Alternator Charge light - so the lights could be on / off in any combination once it is running.
It was sometimes a bit confusing if it stalled in traffic - having to remember what combo of lights would make it run, but you soon get the idea and it becomes second nature.
Si
sounds good. A hidden push button combined with alternator light steering a relay sounds solid. You can't forget to enable the mechanism that way... however. If there is enough fuel in the lines for just starting up the enging the relay flips and the engine is running anyhows.
I'd prefer a toggle switch. -
I usually take 2 wheels of
an extra solonoid in fuel line might help. It will run for a little then but not that far.mine has a manual stop lever (so no electric solonoid).
maybe 4 freewheeling hubs and put them all in free
hahah i'd love to see the look on the face of the guy trying to drive away!!! -
Making the voyage to (58430 ?) is not the main problem.
Finding the time to do it is...
Being kept busy
Construction activities..
hahaha same here. next week onsite (58290) , somewhere October we will be placing the roof so finally I can leave the tarp from my 109 as it gets a space inside
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Hybrid : as in : not standard Series
Als je dan dat soort afstanden kunt afleggen kun je ook wel een keer koffie komen drinken bij ons ~chateau chinon
If you can drive that kind of distances you can also hop over to the Morvan (Parc in france)
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For now I'll drive it a while with my new coolant. After the freeze I'll strart flushing it again
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ola, flushing the radiator 3 times with tap water. All 3 times the water turns mild brown in ~15 minutes of running. After 3 times filling, heating, draining I used the chemical cleaning stuff, after that another water flush. Now I'll put proper coolant in.
All the times clean stuff goes in, light brown water comes out.....
no (severe) oil/water loss/consumption however.... still leaking head gasket???
recently changed oil, nice black oil, no water found.
when the car starts it gives a plume of white smoke (and plume black if I hit the throttle) for the first 30 seconds, thereafter all is nice.
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I have rad with tank on top / bottom.
Hills are not that bad. Can run up most in 3rd. we're talking hills not mountains yet (although i'd expect it to cope there as well)
will check fan, pretty sure that's fine
flushed water twice in 3 days. Second time still rusty.
Should I fill it with coca cola and leave that overnight???
I've found a bottle of chemical radiator cleaner at a big Carrefour (supermarket). Will try that and thereafter fill it with premixed coolant in stead of mixing concentrated coolant with the 'hard' tap water here.
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yes a normal fan on the original engine. Belt is tight, blades look good. Running rev's standing still doesn't cause overheating (have hand throttle
:) )Supprised that my new water already looks rusted after 2 weeks. Refreshed all the water an added 2L cooling fluid to be mixed with water in the system.
Started foaming a bit (running with rad cap off). Will see later on this week if I can still get it to overheat. (doesn't overheat THAT fast, just annoying that it starts heating up after 45 minutes driving hills. Shouldn't do that!)
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This would be controllable from inside the cab and able to be set for what temp you want. And instead of being dependant on engine revs, this would be flowing as per the water temp alone.
hmmm up hill in 4th might be heavier than in 3rd with more revs on the heating system then.
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Well... I'm out of thoughts for a moment. On a normal day cruising, taking it easy... the needle is perfect middle. However up slopes / hills in a hot day will make it over heat. i assume:
- gauge is fine, as it operates perfectly middle in normal slow (<35 Mph) road driving and soms mild forest roads- thermostat should be fine as it keeps needle spot in the middle, broken thermostat should cause more fluctuating temps
leaves me with a clogged radiator, I bought the 109 a year ago and it had an old radiator with it. So a new one was installed at a certain point. seems the radiator consists of 2 parts. looking at the front 1/3rd part on the left hand seems to be seperate from the other 2/3rd. Is that as expected? As in normal temps the thermostat functions fine only working hard in hot temps the system cannot keep up. So I'd have to assume I lack cooling capacity in my radiator......
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and what is the hose used for? It looks like a clutch hose to me
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well, just 1/2 a year after the flexi hose was broken the master cilinder gave up.
Might as well replace master and slave cilinder together...
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My series III 109 2.25 diesel runs up to just under the red part of the gauge when driving in the current warm weather (30+ C), when working uphill it gets even hotter! Something must be wrong. Any ideas?
As soon as I start the engine (was cooled down to ~33 degrees) the temp in the rad also starts to rise up to 71.5 degrees (71.5C after correction). Needle then sits in the middle where I want it.
Temperature in radiator is measured with a Chinese meter and figures here are after correction (based on boiling water i calculated the deviation it had)
When I start driving some hills in france it will soon raise to just below hot(red) and yesterday after ~20 minutes on the road it was in the red. A clear sign something is to hot
What do I know so far:
- The behaviour when revving in Neutral seems 'nice'. Climbs to middle of needle and stays there
- Temp in radiator isn't crazy when revving a bit in neutral (71.5 degrees)
- Driving uphill temp raises into red
- Driving flat or downhill it manages to keep it just under the hot level, just above the top of the letter N.
- Coolant seems 'brownish' might be years old
- top of the radiator is warm, not funny to touch but neither burning my hands. after 30 minutes revving in Neutral.
- lower hose is warmish, not hot, same for top hose, feels cooler than top of the radiator.
- fluid level is consistent the same.
- power to fuel and temp gauge is light green and leads to the voltage stabiliser. Can't be red with multimeter, so likely the old classic stabiliser. Not a replacement LM7910
- sender is replaced by a new one
so far that does make sense. Running without load it sits at ~72C which equals center of gauge.
Then why does it run hot when loaded. It has new oil, oil warning light doesn't come on so there should be basic pressure.
HOWEVER: the oil pressure gauge sits at or just below 2 kg/m2 which is 28.4 PSI. It stays there at any RPM or at any workload. Not sure how reliable the sender and gauge is, could this be related to overheating when working?
Series3. Front door seals
in Series Forum
Posted
LOL, mine aren't even closing coconut-tight. The only reason coconuts don't fall in between the door and the roof is because I'm in France... no coconuts here.