xychix
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Posts posted by xychix
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sort of an anti zombie tank
cool vehicle -
place good seals no crappy brand, and wonder WHY the seal has gone, is it running against a rough surface? vibrations on the shaft?
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Bearmach partsbooks can be found here:
http://www.budget-parts.nl/downloads/
with exploded views of 'fast moving' parts
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I assume if you want to change diff with another ratio you'll have to do front and rear
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if the resevoir is empty the fluid should have gone somewhere... you'll need to find it I guess..
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From all the stuff I still have I think I can make one mint one...
If anyone is interested
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The top end of the copper clutch pipe is connected to the back of the engine block somehow (with a triangular plate) I'm missing a bolt there.
Can anyone lead me to drawings that explode that part (the triangular place on the clutch line, the plate attached to the back of the engine and the size, length and threads of that bolt keeping it all together.. (the one I'm missing)
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I've also returned to stock, hardest thing was to beak open the old hubs as the allen key screws where messed up.
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When I replaced a land I was ready with suitable gear to drive it on when hot but in fact when I'd heated it a bit it dropped straight on and went to the correct place with no need for any force at all.
aren't you affraid then it will stick to the seal and rotate on the halfshaft?
Good to hear this, that means it's not odd at all I could squeeze it on by hand..
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Is that available as 1 replacement part? solid pipe with flex endpoint?
Should I replace all pipework or just fit a 10 cm hose at the end?
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Flushing the system won't kill them, but suddenly bringing in to use cylinders that haven't moved for a while does. Frequently fitting a new master or slave only will also kill the other one...just the way it goes I'm afraid. I always now change both master and slave if either is suspect, and frequently the flexi hose too.
5 weeks should be no problem I assume?
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I don't have flexi hose. it's all copper from master to slave.
I opened bleed tingy (what a bugger to reach!!!!) and had a hose in a empy and dry beer bottle.
Pumped trough about 2 full refills, at start it pumped free and almost no fluids trough, then some dirt sputtered out and i could solidly pump trough the fluid.
had the wife finally hold down the pedal while it took me up to 10 mins to tighten the bugger.
Now all seems a bit better, clutch starts squeenking halfway the pedal so I've got more pedal response now. Still nohwhere like a normal car but hell it ain't a normal car.
it feels drivable (as it gets in a 109 III)
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how does flushing the system kill the cilinders? would that mean breaking the bleed nipples ? I'll first top it up and see if I can bleed the master on my own, just to see if it changes anything at all, then flush later on.
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Found some dot 4 fluid. is that an acceptable mix with the stuff already in there (likely dot 3??/)
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Snagger, thanks for the advice, not sure if the master cilinder was replaced. clutch and gearbox where.
Will first try to source some fluids then
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Thanks all, I've opened the bonnet to take pictures. Only to find out that the cover plate on the master cilinder isn't there, the rubber on the cilinder is gone and the fluid was so deep in the bottle that I could barely reach it with my finger.
Is the external rubber seal only to keep carp out or does it have a real function? (pictures follow as soon as thunder here is over so Ive got stable internet)
for now the steps to take it seem:
- 1 refill clutch
- 2 bleed%
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It goes low if the master cylinder seal is taking in air on the up stroke. But it still has some feel? But it is a 'sitting around' fault. Difficult to decide by description alone. If there is oil around the master boot then it's a fair bet that it is the fault.
So bleeding the system would be a good start, if it happens again start looking for leaking hose or seals...?
And yes the last little bit has pressure, enough to go from neutral to 1st with a running engine and no weird noises. Also with pedal down in 1st it won't move, so it is somehow opening the plates.
On another website i read:
You need to adjust the pushrod that works the master cylinder to give about 6mm play at the clutch pedal and there should be 1.5mm between the pushrod itself and the master cylinder piston.
I might have way over 6mm play, so this pushrod I need to find... any hints from where to search? inside the car? under the hood? high / low on the firewall?
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no that should be fine . You have the tab lockwasher in place between the two nuts ?
also check the axle breather is clear , the old brass breather is serviceable by knocking the ball out which pops the retainer plug and outer
sleeve off .
If that sealring is badly damaged you could get a new one machined up locally , it's nothing special
cheers
Steveb
locker in place, and axle breather is replaced.
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Yes sorry, should have reported this is a 109 series III (1980)
anyone an idea how to 'adjust' the pedal? or it is more likely some lever in the clutch is bend while standing still?
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That all sounds fine. The shaft float is taken care of when you tighten the nut after fitting the drive flange.
Correct.
As for tighening the hub nuts. I turned the first one completely on and then about 10 degrees back and fitted the next one.
I did that because I could feel the difference in how easy the hub could turn. Would it need more slack?
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As you can read elsewhere (somethings with axles and seals) I'm happy to have the 109 moving again....
However when I started it I noticed the clutch pedel is 90% free travel and only then opening the clutch.
I'm 100% sure this wasn't the case when I parked it 5 weeks ago!
The clutch and gearbox have been replaced by the previous owner 2.000 km's ago. (i've bought the car last summer).
What could this play be? It's now hard to engage gears, when clutch pedal 100% pressed it doesn't move so clutch does open, releasing the clutch now likely results in a tilted engine as it suddenly grips fully.
How to adjust this? I was hoping for a cable but it seems hydrolics... -
As i have several spare seals I decided to clean up the distance piece with a dremel and mount it back on the stub axle.
All back together now.
Few things that I noticed.
The half axle can be pushed in and pulled out about 1 cm, is that normal?
I've placed the seal with the back of the seal even to the outer edge of the hub, As I found out there is a special placement tool for the seal (18G 1349), which presses the seal 2mm inward. Will this make a big difference?
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As i have several spare seals I decided to clean up the distance piece with a dremel and mount it back on the stub axle.
All back together now.
Few things that I noticed.
The half axle can be pushed in and pulled out about 1 cm, is that normal?
I've placed the seal with the back of the seal even to the outer edge of the hub, As I found out there is a special placement tool for the seal (18G 1349), which presses the seal 2mm inward. Will this make a big difference?
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No 1 can be ordered in holland seperately,
With landservice.fr I can only find it in 1 complete piece. (distance piece AND stub axle already pressed together)
http://www.land-service.com/443-pont-avant-arriere-serie-88-et-109
Can anyone confirm the land service piece is no 4 and 1 from the schematics above?
-- edit
Another close look tells me the collar was likely pressed on with a press ring / tube that was a bit to big.
cool vehicle
determine front axle series III 109 <1980 or >1980
in Series Forum
Posted
ok... min does.. what is the solution? new track and stub? tick it on with a welder and clean the weld nicely?
or leave it as is and see when the seal goes....
likely all has to come once again as I expect leakage of the swivel sweal as well
For now I just want a running truck do some mudding, finish my garage before the real overhaul starts