xychix
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Snagger, what/where would you advice me to buy then? (and thanks for thinking along this far for, what might seem, minor parts!)
Any UK webshop that will deliver to the Netherlands that sells proper parts?http://www.paddockspares.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=RTC3510G
It appears Paddocks had Corteco or OEM (leather) seals. The timken bearings on both sides look niceand might be reused (I'm in doubt about that as I don't know their history, no signs of damage / wear hovever).
I'm almost sure my left rear weel had a RTC3511 fitted
no wonder that leaked. the inner ring was way wider and a totally different seal compared to the other end. Also it wasn;t seated as nice.
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On 8/22/2017 at 10:53 AM, Snagger said:
For the price, get a Gen Parts kit, not pattern. If you have to get pattern, get Bearmach. The Paddock kit in your link will be Britpart - the seal will leak striaght away, and you'll be luck to get 15,000km from the bearings.
Just did a major discovery
adding a G behind the partnumber gets me a bit more expensive "Genuine" kit
RTC3534G
http://www.paddockspares.com/hub-bearing-kit.html
I assume that's the one then
The bearrings and seal will hopefully be the correct ones. The felt isn't used and the old clip to hold that shaft in place can be reused (didn't break that)
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No drain hole and clearly 2 different bearings.
So 24 spline, pre 1980 axle. Time to gather part numbers in order not to get a paddocks kit but seperate branded items.
The pre 1980 paddocks kit has:
1x RTC3416 Bearing << might be the correct number to find a timken one
1x RTC3426 Bearing<< might be the correct number to find a timken one
1x RTC3515 Felt Seal<< didn't find this when demounting stuff. guess I won't need one.
1x RTC3510 Hub Seal << might be the correct number to find a proper one
1x 231505 Hub Gasket. << might be the correct number to find a proper one---
small items like a hub cap etc will be included in the end.
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Hi Snagger thanks for the details.
I'm looking at the back axle. biggest chance mine is pre 1980 109 SIII as it was placed on the road in 1980.
I'll compare the bearings tomorrow, guess thats the biggest giveaway? It seems to be I'd be able to grind in and break the collar the seal runs on and replace that. That would already be a give away for a pre 1980 rear axle.
I'd assume the difference is clearly to the eye? or is it a barely visible difference in the bearings? -
After digging in and opening up 1 side...
This is what i've red:
- The whole before or after 1980 thing is only for the short wheel base not for the 109.This is what I've found:
- It's a 24 spline shaft
- there are 2 (good looking) timken bearings inside, BUT they both have another number on them. The most inner one reads Timken 359-S, the other reads Timken 11169.The seal seemed to have created a miniature grind in the collar, I wouldn't be supprised if the collar can be replaced..... by the looks of it. However placing the seal slightly more inward (or picking a genuine leather seal) might solve my issue as well.
All seems good, the only confusing is the mixing numbers on the bearings leaving my in doubt what bearings / seals to buy.
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38 minutes ago, rtbarton said:
If you're going to fit new oil seals, check the condition of the stub axle where the oil seal runs on, if this is worn or scored it could still leak.
Will inspect that on forehand. and will check what a stub axle costs as well. (assuming such a groove isn't repairable and replacing stub is preferred??)
Is that an easy swap?
It appears there are quite a few different ones.
I'm having a LWB S3 <1980 rear axle (will double check).... err will double check. It might be that the pre 1980 and post 1980 only goes for SWB as LWB is supposed to have 24spline Salisbury? -
couln't find extended breathers for sale. Are they always DIY or do they exists as package?
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After over 1,5 years due to some chassis repairs (whilst in the middle of building a house) I drove ~10 km's only to discover (and freak out) that my rear drums where smoking like hell but the brakes didn't really lock up....
getting home and flushing it with water I decided to remove one drum only to find gunk (axle oil??) in there. Had the same issue on the front which still isn't properly solved, I'd now rather do a good restore on these rear seals to ensure that it doens't keep coming back over and over.
I was looking at getting this for both sides:
http://www.paddockspares.com/rtc3534-hub-bearing-kit.html
and than order an extra (better quality seal) RTC3510 as my britpart seal in the front is leaky from the start.I'll have to order this on forehand as ordering stuff to France (in the middle of nowhere) usually ends up in a disaster (Read: the package always arrives the day after I leave back to holland and we have no neighbours)
Am I missing anything? I'd rather order a part or 2 to many than miss one!
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my own additions:
oil I'll get locally
might replace the axle drainplug as well.
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1 hour ago, Les Henson said:
Your bad welding is compromising the structural integrity of your vehicle, which potentially could have disastrous results - not only risking yourself, but others. Not being able to do it properly is a poor excuse. There are some parts of the weld that are perfectly fine, so adapting to the available power is all that you need to do (practice makes a good weld).
Bowie69 No, I don't have hangover. You seem to be a perfectionist, so perhaps you can at least appreciate part of my original reply.
Les
Hey Les, the issue is that the wirespeed of the machine isn't constant, if the flow seems ok for a little I tend to make a proper weld as long as the speed stays steady. As soon as it starts changing I tend to place points. All the crappy welds are atleast grinded back down, checked and welded a second round in order to make sure the penetration is OK.
Please explain how you think the integrity and with that the safety is compromised? I think I did everything I could to ensure it's solid (although not pretty). If you can explain where you see the heavy risks I might be able to overdo these area's.
For the record to all readers, dont take my welding as a baseline. Bad wirespeeds, to much or to little power/heat will cause the weld to sit on top of the seam instead of binding the 2 ends together properly. Make sure to always grind down after welding to the height of the two materials in order to ensure the weld has proper penetration (especially if the welding proces was carp!)
I guess this thread shows how we all want our welding to end up: -
4 hours ago, Les Henson said:
Interesting thread. Welding is terrible and why do you think that people on here want to see pictures of you half naked?
Les
Cheers to you as well
I know the welds are carp, they appear just ugly but seem strong. If you ever have a Cebora welder for the give I'm more than happy to redo the welds and ritually demolish my Ferm 1000 Mig with the randomness in the wirespeed.
Due to empty battery (no-grid power here, just solar and a generator for heavy tools) I'm still waiting for the photo's of the rear outrigger to by synced.
No more obsceen pictures of me in that post, I promise! -
This is a short writeup on how I replaced my rear outriggers on my series III 109 (1980) Station.
This is also my first bigger job, other than this I've only replaced a hydrolic clutch hose (the small flex piece) and replaced a hub seal.
There's a few steps that where already done:
1 - remove the top (roof with sidepanels)
2 - remove the tub (I decided to cut the sil-beams against advice. due to 2 extra tanks under the front seats there were quite a few unreachable bolts avoided by these cuts
I've lifted te truck on the rear with a hi-jack, used wood to support the chassis just behind the front seats. (both ends)
I've put a a stack of rims + some wood under the rear x-member
Now with the weel just touching the ground (can be turned with some force) I removed the nuts (was easy) then the bolts had to come out of the bushes. 1 side was easy, the sh*t came later on that side. The other was stuck.
As the are was hard to reach I decided to first chop off the rotten outriggers.
Using loads of WD-40 and brute force I'd manage to turn the bolt with the rubber of the bush turning IN its outer steel sleeve. Quite a few rounds and I could slowly force the bolt/innerhalf+rubber of the bush out.
Now I didn't own a electric sabre saw (yet) so i used a small electric jigsaw that my wife bought to cut floorpanels. Unfortunately this would only reach halfway in the bush.
Several hours of destroying with a cold chisel later the bush was out. New polybushes where easy to place when first the poly end where pushed in the spring and the innertube with some grease was placed last.
Thereafter it was time to weld back the outriggers. Offcourse I did scratch the location in the top of the chassis so I could place them in exactly the same spot.
This last photo shows that the top of the chassis was a bit to thin (this was covered by the old outrigger, the new one folds underneath, the old one folded over the top) so I reinforces that with a 3mm plate.
I always tend to seal my welds as I'm using a crappy Ferm 1000 welder with a sort of random wirespeed. welding is a real **** job with that cheap @ss machine.
The other side had a nice complete bush in the spring, however that was just as rusted up.
After hitting, cutting, cursing, jigsawing etc I bough a proper electric sabre saw, should have done that before starting this job! 15 minutes of cutting and 45 minutes of hitting and it all was out, completely destroyed like the other end.The welding is same process for the other side. Springs fell back in place quite easy using a hydrolic jack under the leafs and a few hits with a hammer.
Still waiting for the bolts to arrive so now an old drill keeps it all in place.Once it really gets under your skin, cool down in a tub filled with ice... (december 2016)
or so some meditation in the snow... (this one is from 2014)
While I was welding away I decided to also patch up that small hole in the rear x-member. More on that in the next post.
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51 minutes ago, missingsid said:
OT
I'm pretty sure that some bolts on my D3 are Imperial!
Hey MissingSid, what year is yours?
I hope chronopost in france can't find my hidden house. Bolts from paddocks are on their way.
Killing the time I cut out a small rot in my rear bar, and some more, and some more... quite happy I brought a big plate of 2.5mm steel.
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Well second outrigger is welded on as well. tomorrow some painting en replacing the wire in the right rail while waiting for new spring bolts.
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5 hours ago, Jon White said:
Correct. No metric bolts anywhere on a series it's all imperial.
That is most certainly untrue. Series III from ~1980'ish is mostly metric. Mine is 1980's so far I've only had a few bolts that didn't fit my metric tools. By far the most seem metric so far.
After hitting the second bush for hours and hours, detroying my huge vice on it and cursing and hitting my hand several times I've bought a sabre saw and cut it in 2 places to the leaf.
After hurting myself a bit more it's now out! Victory. Now having a beer!
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decided to order original bolts and nuts (also for shackles and front springs) to go with my poly-bush kit.
Hope they will arrive before end of next week....
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The underside, was quite hard to weld, but it should hold
The plate I welded over the top corner (wich was previously covered by the old outrigger and thereby quite thin)
After welding I sealed all the welds with welding sealant in order to cover / close small holes and cracks I might have in the welds allowing water in.
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carp, I bought new bushes but not the bolts... can I just race to the hardwarestore and get a set of M12? M14? bolts & nuts?
or are these specially hardened bolts?
At paddocks the set is 2 Euro's, postage is another ~8 Euro's
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the setup (the hi-lift is resting there, not doing anything it's the wood that lifts the car)
squeezing the bushes in:
welded first lines and grinded them to check the penetration. Seems ok despite the crappy work with an old MIG1000 from FERM, very inconsistent wirespeed! Note the holes on the top. will weld an extra 3mm plate on top over the chassis rail to reenforce that area.
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using a hacksaw to cut it in a little (only fir 1/3rd as the hacksaw isn't long enough) and 45 minutes of brutal hammering with a cold chisel I got the bugger out.
Now back in the house for a little as my fingers and feet are frozen the shed doesn't have any heating.
New poly bushes places:
tip, first place both bush ends and then press in the innnertube with some grease and a simple clamb (T-bar clamb??).
Some pictures of the proces (more details later)
New member already welded on (more welding to do but I can already stand on it
Will update this post as soon as my phone is synced to the laptop.
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Hey Arjan, I'm up for a 2.25 to a 2.5di upgrade
I don't mind horse powers, I do mind reliability and economics....
I'm ~1.5 hours from you I guess. let's have a beer of coffee.... or a tea to honor the UK traditions
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hey steve, it's of
the rear is lifted so nice that there was hardly any drop (~2 cm's).
I've cut in all sorts of directions and used 3 discs then I could snap the last piece with 1 big hit of the hammer. Continued to clear the chassis.
Some more cutting chopping and cleaning and the right side is ready to get back on. Just hoping I wont set the loom on fire while welding
Will have to replace the loom anways as I touched it with the grinder already.
Only challenge for this side is to get the outer shell of the bush out of the spring. I managed to pull the bolt+innerbush+rubber out...
Without a hacksaw, as I don't have one.Making pictures of the operation and might do a proper writeup later on.
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Missingsid thanks, unfortunately I don't have proper axle stands.
My current setup:
- 4wd engaged, car in 3rd gear
- front wheels blocked with wood
- 2 stacks of thick wood supporting the chassis just behind the front seat (on both sides)
- drive axle tied up to middle x-member
- lift the whole setup a little on rear x member and place a beam of wood there.By hand I cannot pull it of of this setup (yes I tried)
Thanks for the big warning to me and others! Dying on 2nd xmas day under a LaRo chassis might sound like a fancy way to go but at 34yrs would be way to early!
Additionally I only worked under the car with the springs still attachmed and making 'pre cuts'.
Will stack a pile of rims under the rear xmember as an extra.
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As I don't have a hacksaw I'll use the angle grinder to first cut off the mounting points from the chassis and then try and cut it all off. ( I'm replacing that outrigger and spring mount anyways )
more on succes / failure later today
no wonder that leaked. the inner ring was way wider and a totally different seal compared to the other end. Also it wasn;t seated as nice.
adding a G behind the partnumber gets me a bit more expensive "Genuine" kit
2.25 d brake vacuum pump
in Series Forum
Posted
I've got a Hella UP28 vaccum pump (electric) from a volvo mounted to my break light switch. Works find. No more smothering my 2.25d.