ajh

Just finishing up a 200TDI / V8 swap that others started. The last obstacle is the turbo position has the pressure output pointed directly into the left shock tower. Is the only reasonable solution to this clocking the turbo housing?

Who would have the machine? Basically I can get good performance; but I'm having very poor mileage and assume it is something in the aneroid/pin ratio since I've been though everything else but as a larger issue I have people bringing them in and not knowing if they've been messed with, etc.

Does anyone have a reference for what the default settings on the VE pump should be for a 200TDI?

Looking for a number for the small plates that are riveted to the inside of the seatbox and into which the four seat mounting bolts screw from above.

Found a reference; for future searches the needed parts are as far as I know. ERR6949 1 Bracket/idler pulley assy ERR6658 1 Pulley-idler ERR6659 1 Bolt-idler pulley FRC2481 2 Dowel ERR6898 Belt V8 Less ACE with A/C

ACE idler; only fitted to 4.6L D2, not the tensioner/idler on the other side. This replaces the ACE pump when removing.

Looking for the part number for the full idler pulley and arm for removal of an ACE pump on a V8. Thanks.

None of this explains why the pumps come with hex bolts that cannot fit without the spacer.

Yes, those. The catalog image is wrong in mine, thanks.

OK, I was more worried about having the slip-joint out too far. Thanks.

Any advice on dealing with propshaft issues?

Brake lines yes, haven't done something about propshafts yet.

The metal clip that pushes into the large round holes in the centre of the seat-box to hold the transfer case access panel cover in place... any ideas? The parts diagrams I have show a flat quick-nut, but these are a press-in type with two spring legs.

Yeah, I will, it's just one of those things you try to figure out in advance when every shipment is 4000km

These are the terrafirma pin to pin shocks with the corresponding mount. On a similar topic, on this setup are X-springs or dislocation cones going to be needed?

110 fitted with 33" wheels; +5" shocks, +2" front turret, X-arms, wide angle A-frame joint, medium duty coils, etc. Do you think that extended bump stops will be required?

Thanks; that seems to have worked. Haven't seen the braided one here but 1/8 fuel line worked. The stock ones just fell apart when I removed them; amazing what people miss on a vehicle that has been 'inspected' by at least 2 different parties.

I'm sure this has been asked and answered but I'd like to be sure what size the hose to replace the flex portions of the 200TDI spill-rail would be? I know the last I got worked but was also too small to fit reasonably.

This does fall down a bit for those of us who're not in the UK where shipping something back would cost more than the part itself; having a vendor on the other end who knows which ones are quality and which ones should be avoided is critical for us. Getting the wrong parts shipped (up to and including complete doors) is a common issue with most vendors.

Has anything more come up on this? I know you can use the Simtek system for the TDV6; but I've seen a V8 for offer at a reasonable cost. This would be for a Desert Warrior.

The irony is that 30 minutes after I posted; I had it mostly apart and in the process discovered the 4 bolts holding the bracket to the rear axle while not 'loose' were allowing some lateral movement; this 1-2mm of movement was what was causing the feeling... the rest seems to be the Load C tires; great off-road but really flexible sidewalls on-road.

I've been chasing some strange handling for a while; fixed numerous things but there is still 'something' more. When I go over a speed bump the front is fairly solid; but when the rear axle goes over it feels... squidgy? The trailing arm bushings and A-Frame ball-joint are all new; i'm suspecting the upper link bushings but getting them out is a bit of a pain; I'll need to go buy some box wrenches of the correct size (30mm? hard to tell) and a set of new nuts just to try.... using a short prybar tere is some movement there; but it's hard to tell if it's normal bushing flex or not.... Ideas? and can someone confirm that is a 30mm bolt/nut?

To add to that; I THINK I can make it out on the Microcat diagram... I just don't want to make a mistake....

I'm looking at that diagram. I can read wiring diagrams fine; but I don't see any hints on this about physical mapping; it looks like logical only... which dosn't tell me which port goes where.... it might actually have that data but I don't see it. I have 4 lines in the front, pump feed, pump return, front cylinder top, front cylinder bottom, then the two in the rear...

OK; I'll admit to being a bit of a pratt when I removed the ACE system to get the new Stainless Lines made up I failed to label them; I made the assumption that the manual would contain an assembly diagram... mine doesn't seem to. Anyone know of a proper diagram that shows which line fits which port?