ajh

Basically I need to make sure the doors will close without hitting.

Nobody? One of you must have the new type of doors. I basically just need to know how much to trim out of the centre of the dash shell so it will fit, I also need to finish restoring it and get it to galv asap.

I am in the process of modifying a Series IIA dash shell to form the base for a custom dash setup for my 1992 110 CSW and I have 2007 doors on the way. Could someone with a 2007 or newer take a measurement of the full width of their dash for me? Basically the IIA dash assumed IIA doors which did not have the thick door-liner panels on them so they are slightly wider than those in the late-model Defenders and I need to cut a small amount out of the centre to get everything to fit properly. (I am asking because I am located in Ottawa, Canada and there is no way to get a 2007 to measure here). Thanks!

Guess the only option left is to make my own outer column with bearings I know I can source.

You can also do both, balance more or less with lead then add dynabeads to help with variations and for when the lead comes off or you get mud in the tread, etc.

THose numbers I was given are no good, those are thrust roller bearings if someone does fine some that work please let me know.

Bad/cracked ground does sound like a likely suspect. I'm bi-wiring everything in the new harness back to a common ground to try to eliminate these kind of problems along with other things like RF from ground loops etc. What a mess.

OK, so lift-pump only it is Seem seems to be something worth having, along with the electric back-up pump.

If mechanical they need to be engine bay mounted but autometer has a line of electronic sender fuel pressure gauges now that while expensive are fine for dash mounting. One is 0-15psi the other 0-100psi (posting from phone so not sure the metric equiv) we typically use kph, celcius and psi here for some odd reason. What I am more wondering is if there is a port on the distribution pump to fit the sender reasonably or would. Need to tee off one of the injector lines.

Is there a good way to tap a fuel pressure gauge into the high-pressure portion of the 200TDI distribution pump? Adding one to the low pressure side is easy enough. I keep seeing low-fuel-pressure as a possible cause for performance issues so want to proactively fit some gauges to be able to see if one of the pumps starts to die.

So no luck at all finding new bearings for my steering column. It was a bit crunchy so I took it apart and found the roller bearing had a broken outer race and as flimsy as it seems I am a bit reluctant to ship a replacement 3000mi rather than stock a set. Any help would be appreciated, it is a 1992 so the high spline count shaft.

Or get a zena mbile welder that does 200A and fits where the aircon would go or with a piggyback bracket.

The normal red helper bags, I am not considering dislocation as an option I will be running retained top and bottom, IMHO the only solution to dislocation is fitting X-Springs in a similar configuration (on all 4 springs), but with airbags and variable pressure you could also run significantly softer springs and even retained they would stretch a whole lot more than the HD ones most run these days.

I would not get any that 'hides' the winch below, I have an ARB on my D2 and in 2 winters my XD9000 rotted out from the salt/sand/mud it was constantly exposed to, it was also a pain to get to the controls.

Yeah, ordered mine from Challenger 4x4 as well, now hopefully my container leaves Bristol some time soon and I can get to see them

There is also always the hydroboost approach, doing that for my 110 with Vanco kit. Not cheap but should work better than just about anything else and no more vac pump needed.

What I am doing is fitting the shocks outside the springs on both ends so I can put supplemental air-bags inside all 4 coils to stiffen things up when needed (like moving quick with a loaded rack) or on a nice smooth highway, or force articulation when say going up or down a really steep angle.

Propolyne glycol as it is non-toxic and works well, either Prestone Low-Tox or Amsoil. The caveat is you need to flush your system properly, block as well, preferable with hot water and drain the block and rad entirely before switching for best performance. None of the issues with earlier coolants or OAT/Dexcool either, it is a bit more expensive but I have not seen any issues at all since switching.

I am told following Timken will work, 5BC & NP224896, 11590 & 11520. All but the NP224896 are available to me locally here but that one is only available to suppliers in the UK or France. If someone would consider picking one up and sending it to my freight forwarder in Bristol this week that would be amazing I should have the ones I can get locally tomorrow and will confirm if they are identical / fit as soon as I have them.

The one I am looking at is more in the 500GBP range (and considering what it will cost to ship to Canada... eeek) and will remove the plywood and put a chicken-coop floor on instead. Need to remove it for winter as well since no matter what full-expedition rack (I have a Hannibal on my D2) the snow is a nightmare to deal with.

I would be galvanizing it anyway, everything mild-steel on the vehicle is being done. One of my upcoming purchases is a hydraulic tube bender strong enough to do chassis and roll-cage so since there seems to be so much demand for these I figure once I have one I can knock up a couple more the same or similar. For the cornering issue what I have done is fitted outboard shocks all around and am putting in 4 supplemental airbags that will be cab-controllable (both for stiffening up on the highway/wind and for crossing steep slopes with the rack, being able to force articulation is major). I am hoping this helps enough to make it nearly invisible most of the time.

My plan is to do a bit if each, stretch the wheelbase on a 100" chassis but then fit a soft-top back or tray-back pulled forward to move the rear wheels nearly below the crossmember a la Ibex. (if I don't just bite the bullet and build an Ibex but I have other reasons for wanting it to be a Defender which are tax related and significant.)

That would be my first stop tomorrow. I will post part numbers if I find them, this should probably make it into a tech posting... we really should start a Wiki a la Wikipedia for all these bits of information so we could polish them over the years.

A search for steering and bearing turned up a lot of hits, which after reading them all (I did this before asking) turned up nothing. If there is something else I should search on I would be happy but I figured that would cast a fairly wide net.

Does anyone know where to get both the top and bottom steering column bearings? I finally got around to pulling mine apart to blast before sending for galv and both the ball bearings and the needle bearings are shot.. (who puts a thin needle bearing race into a rubber collar? it just broke right across the race....) so I will need to source both. A search did not turn up anything on the subject at all so likely you all need to do it too bearings should not crunch when turned, even on a Land Rover