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So cutting torch it is! Would have liked to keep it but none of the manuals even hint at how to get it out.

Does anyone know the size of tappet wrench I need to do this? I am now in town and would really like to get the right one. That and I may end up forced to special order one.

fuel fired heater with a coolant loop that is bunged into the fuel tank is best, the tank should also be wrapped with insulation to hold in heat then the engine will keep things hot once running, just be sure to fit a thermostat to shut down the loop at a reasonable limit.

I am still slightly confused, would someone possibly have a photo? Thin wrenches are pretty hard to come by, can I just grind one down?

Are there any tricks to getting the SLU out to replace the gaiters? Am I going to have to go buy a really big open-end wrench?

Why not just stick some high density rubber strips like old-car door bump strips across the roof then tie it on, not like a surf board is heavy.

With Land Rover you really cannot claim that since they vary about 2-4 degrees right from the factory stock, sometimes lifting actually fixes things, sometimes it puts them out by as much as 9-10% which is bad. Do your lift, and then measure the angle, until you know how far out it is you do not know if it is a real or imaginary problem.

2. Megasquirt is your best/only viable option. 3. If you want something cool in the hot weather consider the Exmoor Trim "Mesh" seats, made for the Military for use in hot climates.

Yeah, the diagrams are not accurate to what the new box looks like... why they did not just bolt it on properly before sending it....

My current confusion is attaching the steering box to the panhard bar mount bracket, the two parts came separate in my order and on my old RHD steering box they clearly fit together and have a locating recess, on the new one the bent tie bar is much thicker (which I just discovered when I tried to fit bolts purchased by measuring those of the old one) there is no centre locating bump and there is clearly slack for the arm to move around on the steering box and in the panhard rod bracket even once washers and bolts are in place... is this normal/intentional?

Sounds familiar, I just spent 20 minutes trying to figure out why the front suspension bolt kit from Paddocks just did not fit. Turns out that I had forgotten that in the process I swapped in a D1 axle housing which of course uses the "Wide" radius arms vs the "Narrow" ones that were on there before. This combined with the extra thickness of the dual front shock mount (just mounting one per side for now, outboard) and what were supposed to be radius arm bolts were just too short

Very helpful, Thanks! I really envy you guys, if you forget a part or need a new one you can have it in a day or two... Chassis took me 5 months to get, and a pile of other things 2-3 months. Must sort out something better.

As the topic says I am looking for some good quality photos of a 110 rolling chassis being assembled. Just about to start bolting things back together and having something as a reference might help prevent me from putting something on backwards (sorry, I did not take enough photos when I was taking it down because I just did not plan on going quite this deep into a restoration and now it has been awhile and being in Canada it is non-trivial to just go find a 110 to peek under, most people will have put theirs away for the winter now and there are only a handful to start). Thanks, much appreciated.

Argh, paid about half that for one locally (well, out of Toronto) but would happily have bought one from Dave if one was available back then. Good to know more will be available for future project 200tdi though.

I assume you mean alloy nuts, how much do they need to be trimmed to work well for both? Might as well get a machinist to shorten them in a nice clean way. Probably going to plate them before fitting anyway. (yeah, defender is an odd choice for someone who hates corrosion).

but the longer studs are... longer and alloy nuts do not have an opening for any excess to protrude so will stop turning if the stud is too long...

Something the locked archive thread does not cover is if the new longer studs interfere with fitting alloy rims. My winter tyres are on NATOs but my summer on ZU.

The only real fix is aircon.

Yeah, a full set of new take off doors is 2000GBP plus shipping and paint, but that is complete with all internals and they do look a lot better than the alloy skin ones, no surface ripple-effect etc. Do keep in mind a decent condition NAS 110 sells for about 17000-25000GBP, so spending 9K and a bunch of new parts on a 1992 is not that nuts... you guys can build a 110 from parts left around the neighbourhood...

Hi-lift and Jack adapter.

Land rover salvage can usually get you a set in a few weeks or so. Had another vendor screw up and send me the wrong thing so specifying pressed steel in your purchase order is key, as well as complete with hinges.

So, what you are suggesting is a hydraulic supercharger... Now would that be ZF74 or PTO driven?

So, in a similar vein, anyone fitted a proper supercharger to a 200/300TDI?

As new a 300TDI as you can find, then you have a chance that the doors still have some steel inside them.

The 'crack' is a complete one about 3" down from the header connection so right now the header is venting into the engine compartment. Off to see if I can get someone to fix it.