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Now has anyone found a big one that will fit... say a 150A or 200A unit? That would really help winching.

I would also consider fitting some cold-shut type eyes on the wing edges to help if you have to winch the front on an extreme angle. Looks like a really nice setup though!

I am in the process of trying to figure out which engine/transmission rubber mounts I need for my 200TDI/R380 combination and am running into a whole lot of similar looking parts with different part numbers and prices. Are all 4 pucks the same or are the engine and transmission ones actually different? So far I have found ANR1808, ANR2805, KKB103120, and probably a few others that all seem to look the same in the photos... now is ANR2805 fits those are available semi-locally so that would be best. On a similar note, are there better engine vibration mounts to use than others that will still fit? As we all know the TDIs vibrate a little.

Come to think about it, I do not see any reason I cannot just galvanize them and be done with it. The pin bores may need to be re-drilled and the drain plug re-tapped but having non-corroding parts seems worth it and I need to drag my bulkhead and axle casing and rear door frame (plus 50lbs of other misc bits) to the galvanizer this week anyway.

Are there any surfaces on a swivel housing that would be sensitive to media blasting and painting? Looking at it I would assume that the only parts to worry about are the various tapped holes, the rest just looks structural and dependent on seals and gaskets for slowing the egress of lubricants. Just want to be sure as it is time to start building my new front axle and I need to swap in a new (used) housing at the same time to do the LHD conversion.

Depends, stainless can be stronger and weaker, normal A2 is about grade 5 which is fine for a whole lot of uses. A3/4 and higher can be stronger, at some point you get titanium alloys which are nice but you really do not want to spend the money on them... just a Fireblade axle bolt was something crazy like $65 or something when I looked years ago. What I am doing is using stainless where appropriate, then using galvanized washers between it and aluminum or stainless when directly on galv. Should work out fine.

That is the age where a non-certified for Canadian import vehicle becomes exempt from the regulations. Also why I starts my build with a 1992 110 and am upgrading the key items to modern spec along the way.

I am in the market for a wide-track Sankey to use with my 110 but I need to be able to prove 100% that it is older than 15 years. What can I tell the prospective seller to look for so that I can determine this? I do not have one here or nearby to look over to see what kinds of markings they have. I also probably need to get in touch with the original manufacturer and possibly MoD procurement so if anyone has the contact information for them it would help a great deal.

I got a stainless kit that is pretty good from A2Stainless which makes a decent starting point. The ones I am having more difficulty finding are the really long grade8 metric bolts (like the M10x170s used for the SLU) as those are rarely stocked over here (in any size) and most vendors seem to want to sell me 50 of them... or Land Rover who wants a minimum of 10 but at only $8 each!

Has anyone fitted a cable stop vs having a fuel pump solenoid? Basically standard on tractors and they seem to use a very similar Bosch distribution pump as the 200/300TDI does. I am trying to make it as simple as possible and ensure any potential failures are field repairable (within reason) and figure a key-on, glow-plugs by toggle switch, and push button start are all fairly easy to do. I am making my own dash assembly and am likely going to locate the key inside the heavy steel cubby box. For that matter has anyone ever removed the starter solenoid in favour of a momentary switch capable of handling the load? (yes, it might be going too far, I realize this, but the goal is an un-technology demonstrator for the base vehicle, along with state of the art human/computer UI interaction for things like radio, video, satnav, etc but with the two basically totally discrete, even running the latter off the aux battery with a separate on/off vs auto-on with accessory power.)

Yeah, re-engineering is what eats time. Getting parts here (Canada) can be a nightmare and NAS 110 might as well be Porsche when it comes to buying one, so the majority of my work is on corrosion repair and prevention and updating a 1992 to modern since tha was the newest we are allowed to import. If I went after every single idea I would probably still be working on it 10 years from now.

Only about a dozen times a day, build what you want to have and most importantly enjoy the build and challenge itself. That, and keep a good supply of beer handy.

The main difference is what you would prefer they weld themselves to, the hub or the rim. If you are using boosts then an alloy spacer means it will not eat into the rim bit might degrade where facing the axle, I strongly recomment getting a sheet of gasket material (paper not cork) and putting it between the steel and alloy to prevet this. The advantage of steel spacers is you could tack weld them to the hub in a few places and they would be a lot less likely to torque and fatigue the studs between the hub and spacer and also be a visible indication of problems if the tacks crack. Either way do yourself a favour and use studded spacers and drill and install witness-wire on each and check them regularly for any movement. No movement means no metal fatigue in the bolts.

I blew out the pinion in mine half-way through the job, and that was on a Dewalt contractor grade one. There are plans to come up with a t-shirt.... "If you could put something together with an angle grinder you'd only need one tool... Land Rover Logo".

My understanding was that is also means your crank is not splashing through oil on every rotation which robs power... also why high HP engines have the crank weights "knife edged". My background is in superbikes so I know some of the concepts, but the tuning specifics for high HP and high-torque do change for sure.

Anyone got HP/Torque gain figures for the setup? Does this usually have an accumulator as well to make sure oil is immediately pressurized into the turbo etc?

The secret is to media blast everything and paint it right away using a good acid etch and the new surface will give excellent keying and as long as you bake it nicely it should last quite some time. Painting onto smooth alloy is never sticks for long.

I think there are some square 3-lamp units that look like the NAS rear lamps (rectangular) out there that might be what you are looking for. You do not need a relay but you do need to fit a solid state flasher as the stock one expects significantly more load and will not work with the LEDs.

Hard to beat the price but another option that apparently works is to pull them, put JB weld on them, sand and polish, and they supposedly work as good as new... and this time put on some gaiters. .

Or the Beach Runner 110 done by ECR, great write up on their site. The best LR that LR never made and should have clued into and cloned... but then again these are folks who think making a door out of steel, alloy, and then allowing it to fill with mud is a "good idea<tm>".

I thought that was how a LR was generally taken apart... are these bolts intended to be re-usable???!?

Would fitting a dry sump to a TDI be the same process/parts?

Sounds like the best option would be to fit inline turbos, a very small light fast (bearing spun) primary followed by a bigger VNT/VVT unit with more mass and higher peak output. Having tuned straightpipes (up?) would drop the backpressure enough to likely make the first transparent in power loss. Also the backpressure issue is more a hold-over from 2-stroke technology where there is no exhaust valve and scavenging depends on the bounce back off the silencer (ever notice running without a silencer on one is just it done) and this is known as the Schnurl Loop Effect (I challenge everyone to use that in conversation at least once a year ) On the turbo 4-stroke diesels it has little effect and you really do not want pulse waves coming at the vanes from the wrong side anyway. In reality though if money is not unlimited just do the normal upgrades, fit a single hybrid or VNT and propane injection and you should get the best bang/buck anyway. IMHO at least, but then I have never been know for subtle sensible solutions when something radicalamd experimental and likely explosive is an option

You could also give up and put in an electrical pump.

Does this mean that on a 2x4 converted box the backlash is gone? I know they do the conversion but I have never seen how they go about doing it and am not familiar enough with the power-route through the box to guess at it.