ajh

No, more that the fairlead is on the rear crossmember where the backplate for most receivers would go, on the up-site it does give a lot more depth to mount something to the bottom of the crossmember/tray that will be more than strong enough and recessed enough not to impact departure angle when the hitch is not in place. I'll post some photos when I work out the final solution but it will most likely just be a gusseted 2" receiver tube welded to an 8mm plate which will then be bolted to the underside of the winch tray. Tom was always polite and tried to be helpful on the phone but there have not been any results. Someone has offered to go talk to him in person for me which might work out for the best.

Ah, must have done a bad search term. Thanks, that was what I was looking for. Now to finish sandblasting all the parts and starting to wait for all the new bits to fix things up to arrive... the story of my last 12 months.

I am looking for a vendor who can provide things like the brake caliper bolts, swivel ball to axle bolts, SLU to chassis, etc without being at full OE costs. I am trying to renew every bolt in the vehicle as I go and finding some of them locally is next to impossible and many are so badly corroded that they just cannot be used. So far all the on-line places I have looked do not seem to carry a good selection and every vendor I order something from costs me another 30GBP in customs fees when I ship things so it is nice to get things from as few as possible, especially when a one pound bolt ends up costing 31.

After putting the NATO rims on my rear salisbury (1992) axle, it looks like the studs are too short for the extra wheel thickness. Can anyone confirm that I need to replace my front and rear studs and possibly provide a part number for the correct ones so that the NATO and ZU Alloy rims will both fit correctly?

Also take some solace in the fact that when you forget to get a part you do not have to order it and wait a month or more for it to arrive, and then be incomplete or missing instructions.

Well, after 2 more email, 2 more email sent using the web-form on the site so he cannot claim it went into a spam filter, still no response at all. What is the easiest way to file a lawsuit in the UK? Next time I am in London I assume there is some kind of small claims process I can start? Should be enough to cover at least my time, flight, hotel, and having the missing parts fabricated... I gather is would be <1000GBP.

Oh an of course I notice that once the tank is fitted there is no way the bolts for the tow-bar/tie down eye would ever fit. "luckily" I have to make my own anyway since I have the North Offroad rear winch tray that is a nice 8mm thick that I am going to make up a 2 inch receiver and bolt it to the bottom in 4 places with some nice big bolts under the winch. Then I can just slide in a removable drop plate with pintle. The firstfour offroad Shadow bumper also would not fit until I cut off the outer "ears" between the frame rail and the dumb irons. Not to mention that the galvanized steel steering guard does not line up right and is going to require a pile of spacers to get it all to look like it should. I guess a lot of rover owners are utilitarian in their demands, but over here a NAS 1993 110 v8 sells for 25-30K GBP in moderate condition so I really want to make this rebuil something special. Now if only I could get the correct front doors so the paint guys could start putting more than primer on things.

Well, that solved one problem. Now to find some appropriate gaskets for the sender and fuel tube. Is it just me or is all of this made worse by the fact that rover owners tend to be militantly self-reliant?

I am seriously ready to lose it on this guy, trying to mount the rear if the tank with no access to the bolt heads alone is bloody frustrating. I am just going to drill access holes to tighten these things. On top of this the fastener order I picked up today contained all kinds of wrong and random bolts. Baaargh.

Can you recall which bits came with it?

I would be more than happy just getting what I paid for. It is the 3rd vendor who screwed up badly. Paddocks sent me ONE RRC hub when it was supposed to be 2 for my rear disc conversion, another send me door shells when it was supposed to be late-model complete doors, and now this.... how can people live with such a poor level of service?

I ordered a number of items from Safari Equip including their stainless extended range tank, their aux arch tank, a steering guard, and vent covers. When things arrived as far as I can tell all the instructions for installing anything were missing, the spacers for the rear ARB were missing along with other hoses to connect things up, what exactly is missing I cannot tell because while Tom seems very personable on the phone and keeps insisting he will get me the information is has now been over 2 weeks and I am still nowhere nearer to getting what I paid for despite many email detailing exactly what I need which have just gone unanswered. What are my legal options at this point? Return shipping and ordering new parts from someone else will probably cost me $2000 or so in the end. I obviously cannot stay patient and wait forever with tanks I cannot install without the directions for safety reasons or deal with the missing vent covers that never arrived. What have other people had to resort to in order to get a vendor to live up to their responsibilities? It will cost me about $1000 to fly in and challenge him face to face and I am prepared to do this, but I will have to recoup those costs. Frustrated. To be clear, I am very happy with the product, but the level of communication has just made it impossible. Being GMT-5 does not help either because by the time I can get around to calling, nobody is there and it looks like voicemail has not yet been imported to the UK yet.

Yikes, and I thought we were over-bureaucratic... here there are no SVA, and just class G-M and one for busses/trucks over a certain weight, and Z for air-brakes... nothing for trailers... but then we register trailers as vehicles as well so they are at least checked out, the fact you guys do not have ownership papers for trailers is making buying one from there really frustrating.

I just galvanized the radius and trailing arms, now it should not be an issue.

This is one reason I am fitting Aerocatch latches and no release cable. That and the quality of the release cables

I was more thinking of something that could be left in-situ and used if needed to avoid lying in mud at 2am trying to get at the brakes

A recent caliper failure has me thinking that the same thing happening in a remote location would likely end up in getting stranded. I am looking for suggestions on a way to be able to lock out a failed brake line so the other 3 keep working. My failure was on a d2 so resulted in total brake loss. I suppose the cheapest and smallest way would be to just carry a banjo bolt bolt with no fluid passage.

Yeah it would be zinc, if you want a smoother finish you need to do an etch primer followed by a filler primer, likely quit a few coats follows by sanding until the surface is smooth. I would try to find at least 2 colours so you can see when you get closer to the zinc.

Heh, yeah the axle end... figured the other end out fine

You can also get bonded and collared washers to provide proper isolation. Bonded are a rubber and steel washer together so the steel never touches the alloy, collared you would get in nylon and it has a flange that keeps the bolt and panel from touching. Still, a dab of silicone before you put the bolt in will seal the top and prevent water getting in, and without water there is no galvanic reaction possible. For the most part where I am not using stainless I am ust going to overspray the heads and threads with cold galv spray (zinc rich primer basically) for anything I know I will not need to dismantle regularly. Another option is to zinc plate every fastener, you can plate mild steel, stainless steel, and alloy (with the right kit) and then you can renew the plating as it sacrifices over the years.. in a LR the plating is the sacrificial anode at every bolt opening. Using galvanized washers is also a good approach as it will provide a lot more zinc to wear through.

Has anyone installed one of these? I do not think mine came with all the required hardware and certainly did not include any installation directions. I have been trying to get information out of the vendor for 2 weeks and while I seem to be able to reach them by phone the emails go unanswered. Basically I thought it came with 75mm spacers for the rear ARB, also the place where the sender mounts does not seem to hold the sender, there is a good 3mm of play and no way to tighten it down any more and this is with the stock gasket in place, there also does not seem to be any hose to connect the flow-through arch tank to the main tank, am I supposed to cut the stock rubber extension hose in half and use half for each section (filler to aux, aux to main)? The aux tank attaches to the tub so I will not be able to fit that until probably January (another vendor issue where they sent me the wrong doors and it is going to take me a month and a half and few hundred pounds in losses to get the right ones and the rest of my body sits in epoxy primer waiting for those doors to get a topcoat)... Then comes mounting it to the chassis, because I took the other off about a year ago now and there are not really any 110 around here I can compare with and all the manual photos are pretty poor I am wondering what the best approach is? I was considering just inserting two M12 stainless bolts into the rear mount area (I have a Richards Chassis with a North Offroad rear winch mount so I am not sure how much this varies from stock) where there is no access to the bolt-heads at all and then securing them in place with some thin nuts and epoxy to more or less turn them into fixed studs which I can then use nuts and washers to hold the tank up with. Is this sensible? The front is much more accessible and takes M10 bolts fine. The quality of the tanks is great, I just wish there was more communication and information provided with them.

Does anyone have the tubular front dual shock towers installed? Paddocks of course did not include any information at all about how the lower mounts are supposed to go on, and because I have the entire front end apart (painting the axle housing now) I am having some visualization issues with how the lower mounts are actually going to fit. If someone has photos that would probably help me a great deal. Thanks!

Looks like you can order copies of the military service records from the archives for 25gbp which should satisfy customs. Hopefully this does not take months to recieve.

Does anyone have first or second hand experience with the RDS tubular radius arms? How much lighter are they? Have you seen any break like the older QT ones were rumoured to?

I just galvanized a bunch of the take-off washers and will use those where I use stainless bolts to keep them from the alloy directly.