Simon B

Taken it back to 11 degrees, will see if the economy improves. I'll do the QWS switch connections when I get more time.

It did previously, then the cable snapped on the green KSB solenoid alerting me to a change, hence the investigation, wiring it to the glow plugs leaves me the option if its warm to simply wait till the glow plug relay times out and clicks off before I start up, when the engine is warm this is quite quick so I'm presuming there is an ambient temp function in the relay . Its using the standard land rover relay timer which doesn't have a long after glow or reduced voltage after glow if cold.

RatCav, That was the procedure I used, so my 12 degree setting is better but I'll set up 11 degrees when I get some time. The wiring is missing from my QOS system so I wired the green solenoid through to the glow plugs to give an advance when the plugs were on. There seems to be just enough time to start it well like this, I'll see when it gets colder. Next step would be to use the QOS thermal switch to operate a relay to the solenoid to make the advance temperature related as per original Isuzu/GM design. Shame I only just found this out, its been running badly advanced for a couple of years/20,000 miles. I'll repost when I have done the 11 degrees adjustment. I would love to make up a 3" bore straight through exhaust for it, might be a project for next year, did wonder about stainless and TIG weld it up I can borrow a set.

That's interesting, so l could make my adjustment even more efficient if I time it to the inter cooled 11 degree setting. Could I use the QOS thermal switch without a relay? I used a dial gauge to set it crack 0.5mm.

Just resurrecting this very old thread, continuing problems have led me to look at my pump and the Frontera set up. If anyone else is thinking of using an old Frontera motor bear in mind two things; The green solenoid is a solenoid operated bypass circuit that puts the timing 5 degrees advanced across all revs (bypasses the normal advance/retard function in the pump). Called a KSB Bosch term for a cold start device, 12v live energizes it and gives you the advance. Frontera's have timing marks at 12 degrees BTDC not at top dead centre. So I had basically set my timing up to be 12 degrees advanced plus another 5 = 17 degrees advanced...! Noisy! I have now coupled this cold start device up to my glow plugs so when I start the engine its advanced for a few seconds. As you might expect the engine runs very much smoother and starts instantly. Fuel economy looks a little worse and it seems hotter on the gauge. Will keep people posted on anymore news, hope this motor is good for a while.

I'll be needing a new clutch soon in the LR110 Isuzu hybrid, can you buy plates and covers separately?

I have a Vauxhall Frontera 2.8 in my 110 CSW its not running as well as I thought 24-25 mpg, my old seized up 4JB1T did 26-33mpg. It starts horribly. The picture posted of the injection pump looks similar to mine (Zexel instead of Diesel Kiki) but I dont understand what all the electrical plugs are? I connected up the fuel shut off solenoid and the fuel reurn solenoid and thats all, are the other items needed for more efficient running?

You may also find that some oil pipes foul the engine mounts. I put a frontera 2.8 into my defender a year ago. I had a seized up trooper 2.8 so used all the parts from that that I needed. Had to modify the water cooling pipe routing to go through the older trooper oil filter/heatsink. I have wondered about the 3.1 the early ones were bored out 2.8s but I think there was a version that dffered a bit more as the 3.1 went to indirect injection.

I'm guessing that's the green topped solenoid on the pump?

It is running on a bit sometimes, this might be the same fault. Yes Dirty it's been a journey, but I am a bit stupid sometimes! I've still got the old seized engine but my wife wants her yard back so it has to go.

When fitted the new frontera/Isuzu engine in my 110 I had to take the pump off to remove the immobiliser. I didn't have a set of pullers to remove the pulley so stupidly jacked it off using machine screws through the pulley against the back plate. It hates starting, as is if there is always air in the pump and the economy is down. Would pulling on the shaft in this way wreck it? If so can it be repaired?

Here's the pump with the now removed imobiliser module. What I'm unsure of is the other things; Module marked 456 AJ1 - what is it, do I need to connect it to anything The little whit vaccuum doofer, looks like it pulls on some throttle do I need to connect that? Finally at the back of the pump there looks like a thermal switch again what is it and does that need connecting?

I smashed it and took some pics. It would have been possible with some cunning soldering to merely prize off the end and solder 12v wire onto a pin. However, with it all gone I wired up the solenoid, interestingly the solenoid was only finger tight. Next issue to sort is all the other stuff with wires on the pump.

Consulted my local diesel gurus, the Frontera pump does have an imobiliser on it, however, underneath the black plastic cover is simply a 12v solenoid. Their advice "smash the plastic cover off and put 12v to it" Next job will be to refit this once the smashing is done.There are some other devices on missing from the diesel kiki pump not sure what they are but I'll read up on it.

I was thinking it would be like this, I'll get the relay out of the shed (wooden) and test it on a battery with a couple of bulbs to simulate, then try and fit it. Been a job I have had to do for some time now.

This might be a bit of a daft question, the timer relay controls the glowplugs being on for a certain length of time and the light on the dashboard being illuminated are these times the same? I was wondering about linking this into the advance on my diesel pump also to make it start a little easier. (Diesel KIki pump on a Frontera (Isuzu) 2.8 in my 110 CSW) Any thoughts?

Minor update, put an ameter in series and found the sensor wire drawing 4amps. The main battery cable (without sensor wire attached) draws no current. For now, I'm fitting a relay to switch off the sensor wire when the igniton is off. Dont want to buy a new alternator just yet so will look at how much a voltage regulator is. Simon.

It has a black plastic box on the back held on with shear bolts, I had heard it is simply a protected solenoid that only opens when it gets the right signals from the immobiliser circuit. I did wonder about drilling out the shear bolts and removing the solenoid/wiring it in to the stop solenoid. Not wired in the cold start advance yet as I have not wired in the glow plugs, sounds like this is a good idea, I did buy a land rover glow plug timer but havent got around to fitting it yet. The alternator fault needs sorting out first; no charge light, but covered in another thread; Alternator

Certainly seems that way! I'll post the pics when I get them out of the iPhone. Bit more fiddly than I thought; Oil filter housing retained from Isuzu Oil supply pipes also swapped over Water supply to oil filter heat sink - mackled up Isuzu dowel bolt would not fit, forgot to fit it before engine went back in EGR kit all removed and blanked Frontera diesel pump has an immobiliser module fitted old Isuzu one other in shed for now Injectors and pipe work different Turbo outlet different retained Isuzu one after snapping all 4 studs DOH! Dual mass flywheel removed, old isuzu one fitted back Doesnt start as easily, bit clattery till warm but more powerful, turbo makes a strange sound when I turn it off too? Also got my old alternator fault back, something has gone pop again so might wire it up as per Isuzu circuit diagram through a relay to the charge light. Not even sure how it happened again this time as all I did was disconnect the positive first then when it was re-connected - no charge light.

New alternator fired again, annoyed! Might look at trying to repair it this time and finding out what is shorting it out.

It had one! but I didnt have the pockets for the fuel! It was a close call between LPG convert or transplant a diesel. The diesel won just, I'd run a 4.6 on LPG before this defender and like it. Before its catastrophic seizure I loved the Isuzu too, both motors are great.

Gates do a range called "Extra Duty" they are tough, I used them on the Isuzu after it has shredded a couple of "Mitsuboshi" belts from Milners. The timing belt was a Dayco one from Parkers, I'm yet to investigate that depressing failure. And will be putting a new belt on when I fit the new engine later this month. If its a good motor I'll be happy.

I found that, it pulled well, I expected much less, a very reasonable compromise with the V8.

Just rechecked my old post, fairly sure the seizure was not my fault as the error I made in fitting the timing belt affected the pum (ignition) timing rather than the crank/valve timing. Old Hand; "CASH" - still got the Isuzu conversion plate and all that silicone tubing. Plus the same will type of lump will almost fit itself...

The timing was correct, there had been no damage from the time when it was slightly out before as the head was taken off to investigate it over heating, that was due to a partially failed thermostat. It had been running really well up to the point that it seized and that happened very quickly without much warning. Enough oil, no oil light on, small amount of smoke from crankcase breather temperature gauge normal, slight tappet sound that sounded like #2 or #3 then middle of engine but only when it was fully warmed up. Timing belt in very good condition. I'll fit the Frontera lump then we can talk, you see an awful lot minus; turbo, alternator and starter motor - presumably eBayed.