Simon B

Bit of a random one, my Isuzu 2.8 has seized up catastrophically (think the camshaft went) has anyone fitted a frontera motor (the same I thnk with a few differences on induction) to an Lt85 (Santana) gearbox.

Strangely I've just had the same fault, it's either diodes or voltage regulator that's gone pop. Mine happened after driving through a flood, changed alternator (could not repair it as tie bolts rounded off) all working ok now and battery does not flatten.

Fitted today, light on with ignition light off when engine running. 14.88 volts at battery terminals. Glad that's sorted.

New alternator ordered here; Milner Hope that sorts it. Then MOT time! (again)

Hello Western, How does the battery flatten? Through the sensor wire or the connection to the main lead.

Hello, I've got a problem with my2.8 Isuzu convrted 110, the battery flattens itself totally overnight - goes down to 1volt so the dashlights dont even illuminate. There are other symptoms; Battery charging light had been taking longer than normal to go out Battery charging light now does not illuminate, but will if I short the wire to earth - so bulb circuit ok With a new battery engine starts ok voltmeter shows a good charging voltage that goes up and down dependant on load. I may have run the engine for a short time with the sensor wire disconnected, it had pulled out during some other work. I suspect either diodes or voltage regulator, it's a hitachi alternator and they seem very expensive so did not want to rush in to changing it if there's an easy fix.

The early 3.1s were bored out 2.8s I think these went ok, but not the stump pullers people expected. The later 3.1s were I think an indirect injection motor not had any experience of these.

Whilst there arent heaps of these about they do seem cheap, anyone got any views on them? They seem to use an Iveco engine, 2.8 but I think Santana as a company are now defunct so parts may be an issue.

Bu88er! Bought a bag of studs to do the wolf rim project they cost me £100! I'll check out the rims tomoz and probably order some, was looking for some "cheap" ATs but for extra tenner I may as well go big brand - so have plumped for General AT2s. Raptor dash still on going (Xmas presie last year...) clutch still not right.

I'm on Koni with some Srapiron Racing +1" springs - utter garbage - I think they are out of business now. When I can be bothered I'll go back to standard springs.

Simmonites do genuine for about £70 I think, 4x4tyres.co.uk do these; http://www.4x4tyres.co.uk/defender-15inch-to-18inch/16inch-65inch-white-wolf-style-defender-steel-wheel-p-1305.html The reviews for the tyres from this site all seem quite good. £40 is about 8 spoke/modular price.

Has anyone bought any wolf "style" rims? They are cheaper than the genuine OE part.

Reset pedal height but clutch still bites at the very top, might change slave cylinder to a known 110V8 part# one. Got a master cylinder I could change too, if its still bad I run out of ideas!

Well I fitted an AP plate which looks a lot more meaty than the Valeo unit in before, however, the bite is very close to the top of the pedal travel. There is no spongyness so I dont believe any air is in the system. Does anyone have any ideas why the bite would be high? might sound klike a daft question but I dont quite know how the system works! The cover was spaced off with washers I did wonder if they have a role in locating the bite position or whether an adjustable push rod might vary the position (suggestion from fitter at work)

I think the V8 was configured to be modified with an additional tank there is usually a blank fitted under the intrument console, I think this a fuel change over switch position. There should in theory be a sub section of the parts manual detailing all the gear you'd need to do this job if you want to go Original kit. If there is not one of these was your vehicle not an original V8? There has been a thread on aux tanks here but I think it was a while back.

I did an engine conversion a couple of years back from a V8 to an Isuzu 4JB1 2.8 diesel, it's a lovely engine but the clutch has given out. The clutch plate I fitted was a Valeo 23 spline 9.5" or 242 mm. It looked a skinny little thing when I fitted it and I did wonder then. What would be the best thing to replace it? I had there is an HD version for the 130 but have seen various sizes quoted but do not know if it will fit my LT85 which I think is a 23 spline input shaft. The Isuzu clutch cover will only accept a 9.5" plate so cannot use the original V8 one which is nice and big 10.5". I had a donor engine that had its Isuzu cover spaced off with washers, what is the significance of this? Other varied sources have pointed to differences between Borg & Beck and Valeo saying the Borg & Beck units have more meat on them? I had meant to talk to Rakeway in the week but could not, will try them monday. As well as the plate I was thinking of doing the clutch fork too, the release bearing is in a big solid metal carrier (came with conv kit from C & P) its less than 2 years old do I need to change that?

I did a V8 to Isuzu conversion, it is not difficult and the engine and my gearbox combo make for a pretty nippy motor. However, if I already had a vehicle with a 300Tdi I'd do as others suggest and rebuild. All the faff comes with everything that is already there and sorted out for you; For instance Accelerator cable exhaust clutch (hybrid of isuzu and LR) moving of air filters re-routing induction pipework radiator hoses engine loom changes. You get the picture, I did mine in silicone hoses - not cheap!

Further clarification from the Police last night, whilst accidents and crime in my area are low insurance (car) fraud is high shows you where all the crash-for-cash scroats live so we can pop round and give them some real whiplash injuries to claim for.

So getting a bog standard landrover might be a more economic move? Certainly cheaper than moving house. I'll probably stay NFU this year, come next year they will need to be matching this years premium, I cannot wear the near £1000 a year for a G reg 110. Makes you wonder how the more expensive cars in my street can actually be insured.....

After 2 requotes its now down a staggering £200, however its still over twice my previous premium. Some feedback from NFU was that all postcodes had been reviewed and mine was now a very bad area for insurance fraud. Might be cobblers, might be time to move house! Will be looking at others and report back, anyone tried tescos for land rover insurance?

I see, explains name change.

I used a bit of old chassis which is surprisingly almost exactly the right size.

I deliberated long and hard about going from my V8 Tbox 1.14 to the disco one when I went from the V8 to an Isuzu2.8, in the end I left as is and did not regret it first time towig a heavy trailer I realised first would have been to high on the disco box. I'm planning to go the RM Overdrive route when funds allow. There seem to be 2 units on the market looking very similar; Rocky Mountain branded Roverdrive and Devon 4x4 "Roamerdrive" not sure what that is all about.

I dont usually check for a new policy at renewal time but might do this time, 25% increase is harsh but wearable, close to 200% does not make much sense particularly when you look back complaints there seem to anecdotes of 30% increase per year or more. Mind you their executives seem well paid.

I've been with NFU for quite a while now and all has been well. This years renewal came through, my normal payments were about £30 a month this has now shot up to £87 a month. Has anyone else had a similar unexplained rise? 110CSW, SDP, driver aged 47, 65% NCB protected?