Simon B

I fitted a 2.8 Isuzu in place of an ok 89,000mile V8 3.5 carb, I did notice a difference, economic and powerful, I would not hurry back to petrol, maybe lpg, but I did get fed up of having to find stations etc (I'm not organised) They are lovely engines I'm looking for a spare one some where.

This might seem really stupid, are you sure it is tappett noise? I was about to dismantle mine when I relaised the noise I was hearing was loose outlet manifold bolts that alllowed out cylinder noise when pushed a bit. Tightened them all up - magic! Old V8 now on engine stand in garden now though, iszuzu in its place.

I think Santa is bringing one for me, wil add it to this thread in the new year when I can get it fitted. Can't afford all the gauges yet so its going to have siome blanks for a bit. In blue to match the rattletrap, will see a cheap aldi radio cd unit and carlings plus re-located switch panel contents.

I had the same with my lightweight when I made a monster cubby going down to near the top of the transferbox/gearbox a lead engine blanket cut down on the noise and some of the heat. If its really dirty clean it it will shed more heat too.

Fitted ok into my 110 CSW, cut out the base of the tool locker and fit it in, will post some pics tonight. Fitted one of these as I already had one but main tank rusted out so only have 50 litres of range - I'm on jerries too!

Has anyone ever fitted megasquirt to a mechanically injected diesel engine? i.e. one lpg injector per inlet on manifold to augment the diesel fuel already going in through the direct injectors. Have seen some basic systems that operate of boost pressure from the "aneroid" (I think) up to 25% adds more torque and makes engine more thermally effiecient, clearly I don not want to blow my engine up though.

Have heard people say a light rebuild after 50k and others say if it has not been thrashed and has had regular oil changes then it will go much longer. Mine had 100k on the clock and was fine apart from throttle spindle wear on carb. It's now out of the vehicle with a slightly dubious Isuzu in it's place.

18mpg steady on motorway 9mpg round town in middle of winter (short journeys) As said get gas and you will see a financial equivalent of between 18 - 36mpg however if its for journey work factor in finding stations and tank size to get the range. If I was going the lpg route again I would consider a 130 and engineer in 2 very large tanks. You cannot beat the V8 rumble again if I was doing it again I'd go for 4.6, run megajolt spark timing (dual fuel map) and have a 50 litre aux tank under drivers seat.

Just had my renewal and it does not seem to have changed much, this is after some claims with NFU (none my fault) I'll check my paperwork later tonight.

I did a couple of searches but could not find the answer to this; does anyone know if it is legal to transport jerry cans with fuel in on the side of a defender? I've seen plenty on roof racks but for me (fueling up a boat frequently) it would a pain and somewhat difficult for some of my shorter assistants.

You could fit a forward facing fold up from Exmoor trim but make the hinge pin removable so you can take it easily? Or use riv-nuts bit more fiddley.

I think there's some sort of legislation covering noise that will kill off a lot of current tread patterns so we may see quite a few go this way quickly.

Anyone bought from these people? My link Also have what looks like a chep LED "Angel eye" job but thats a bit to bling for me.

Western, I'd seen the YRM one in one of your previous posts but had already got the replacement one for mine Three pieces would be easier if you do not want to remove the sill and fill panel.

This knotty problem again! Always rotts, is thinner than other chassis members and is a pig to get out. Remove the sill panel and door fill panel (the little triangular one whose rivets always fall out, you only need to do this on one side, but it helps with visibility if you do both Dont bother trying to undo the various nuts and bolts simply cut them all off. Prepare your cross member; if you have not got one that has separate brackets drill through them and grind off the welds to separate. Remove the small rectangular brackets the bolt to the section that supports the now removed sill Cut it exactly in half through th middle and prep the ends for the final weld. Now for the fiddly bit, insert the cross-member if you are only working from one side get underneath and put in the section furthest from the removed sill and fill panel, it can be just put in place by first putting it in longways on between exhaust and propshaft. The screws securing the floor were fouling the top so I had to trim these down. The were badly coroded so arent going anywhere. You may need to make some re-infrocing plates out some aluminium as the body work behind the brackets often corodes away into white solihull powder. All bolted up loosely so that weld can be aligned. Not the best weld I've done but its strong enough and all covered in waxoyl - so no going back! All rivetted back together now, that'll keep my MOT man happy now. If I was doing this job again I'd consider getting a galvanised one with removable brackets and try getting in all in one first. You could dispense with the need for a weld if you made a section that bolt the two halves back together. Hope this helps and is considered fit for the technical archive.

LPG with a good megasquirt job cheap powerful and safe, use ELDIS coils and it'll be almost as waterproof as a diesel. 200TDi easy to convert and sundry items like hoses are cheap - dont ask how I know that this will be an issue. 2.8TGV international if you have the cash. Nissan or Mazda if one can be found - but will still suffer from ancilliary parts costs. Isuzu 2.8/3.1/3.9 All good engines but as above. Having just struggled through my conversion I would only look at 2 options the 3.9 on LPG or the 200TDi route, the diesel can be tuned up a bit and intercooled etc. Depends on how much of a grin factor is required.

I fitted some forward facing fold up seats from Exmoor into my 110CSW, very expensive but good seats. Including the seat belts they were about £400 (I think) Not to be taken lightly.

Struggling with the routing of my induction, turbo and intercooler pipework. If anyone has any pictures they can post of this it would help greatly, if only just to inspire!

Aldi or Lidl have some good TUV jacks for about £11, if you can wait for them to come around. Hi-Lift is always good. but they will only lift the body not the axle. I've got both and use both, my trolley jack is a pain in the butt so dont take that out with me too much.

With what you have keep the V8, I'm doing the Isuzu conversion at present, it's not that straight forward or cheap. I didn't keep my V8 as I dont have the room inside for the large tanks. The thing to think about is range my former conversion would do about 150 miles before I needed to go looking for gas, ok local but on long journeys could be a pain. However, as a 130 you'll have much more space so fit big twins. I had thought of running my ignition through megajolt or mega squirt so it could keep 2 timing maps, a number of people seem to rate mega squirt and there appears to be a fair bit of Rover injection stuff about. Only go the Isuzu route if gas is impossible.

Thread on my alternator problem includes Bushie's answer and diagram

Had this on my lightweight, remake all the connections making sure they are clean and tight.

Lovely, just the info I was looking for, I'll be looking at fueling in detail later with a "Guru" Just got to save up for that extra lever, still cant beat the 4 I had on the Lightweight! May revise the tyre size a tad as well though they'll be the last things on the shopping list.