Simon B

Devon 4x4 are distributing the DX model, I'm mulling fitting one to my Isuzu/LT85 combo my Tbox is the 1.41 and ultimately I'd like to re-tyre with 265x75xR16 tyres. Has anyone got one of these running in a simialr set up 110? I opted to keep my Santana box and not use the LT77. I did wonder if I could put my transmission oil through the raditor oil cooler that is not being used by the engine (has little cooler on filter stack)

Been browsing for more bits to buy and spotted this http://www.x-eng.co.uk/X-Deflex.asp?MID=2 Does anyone nkow anything about it or how good it is etc. Sounds pretty amazing even if I dont need 16" of travel a firmer back end is always good on road.

Cheers Western, thats poor googling on my part. My next job is to find cheaper pipework than silicone or give up and sell loads of stuff to buy silicone!?

I've got an exhaust passing a little too close to some wiring, is there an insulation wrap I can put on that will expose my wiring to less heat? If so what and where from?

Here's a couple of pics, also worth noting is if you need a second small stabbing at the top? One goes to the header tank the other to the carburettor manifold (if yours has carbs)

A V8 rad goes all the way across the front. They put out a lot of heat. I've got one spare from my Isuzu conversion. PM me.

Cheers Callum, Not a priority just yet but might hook a tacho up later on my list of things to do with the P38 box mod.

More info posted by Gribble on ITOCUK Most of the alternators on troopers are hitachis and as such are load sensing so on the wires the two larger ones are the outputs and one goes to the main supply board and one to the starter main terminal. The smaller one is the charge light or L line which when the key is at ign on earths the batt light but once the alt starts to charge it 'switches ' the earth off and via a relay the batt light goes out. So take your ign feed from the batt light and wire it through a relay to the alt and all should be well , I can post a pic for you to help if you are not keen on electrics If you are going to fit a winch I would put the output wire onto the batt direct as it keeps the winch motor speed up On the injector pump you only need a key switched live to the stop solenoid as the other bit is the CSD or cold start which its never cold enough for in the UK Making more sense now, mind the generous swigs of cheap scotch may have played their part...

Thanks for an excellent answer, I almost got there, found a voltage regulator diagram (below) which appears to be my 3 pin plug. Also coincides with yours so explosion could be averted! The thing with tach then is red herring, this may then come off fuel pump - more googlisation then! This may be one for the technical archive as I know a number of people have had problems with Isuzu alternators and others have run theirs accidentally in the non-sensed mode so overcharged their batteries, either using water or totalling the battery. I think this alternator is also used in a number of marine applications possibly fitted to Yanmar diesels.

Sadly no, or my eyes just could not see it! Its similar to a GM plug I've seen on a vauxhall forum but they did not identify the terminals and the wires were different colours.

This in the plug on the back of my alternator, I think the wires are; Tacho Lamp Sensing The colurs are; White (thick wire) White and red (thin) Black and light yellow (thin) Which one is which? Am guessing the sensing wire is the thickest but do not know which of the other 2 go to my lamp.

I'll have a 1.667 going spare soon when I put the Isuzu into my defender. I'm in Leicester JST.

Unit now gone, well corroded, so would not have done it's job anyway. Will post pics of build on very old build thread I started ages ago.

Was trying to fit a Watling front tow bar, poor fit indeed, it fouled the push bar. The push bar itself is very corroded can they be removed and discarded and what is their function?

Problem solved with a Steve Parker Range Rover V8 manual to Isuzu 2.8 TD adaptor kit. Pricey but beyond my simple machining skills. Up side is I now do not have to re weld the old engine mounts, new ones in kit.

Has anyone fitted an Isuzu 2.8 to a 110 CSW V8 with a Santana gear box (LT85)? What I thought was going to be fairly straight forward now isnt, I have the engine already coupled to an LT77 but the seat bases and tunnel are all different part numbers in catalogue. Not sure which way to go on this - convert to LT77 or buy extra conversion kit (if one exists) for the LT85, or is the conversin kit plate universal for LT77 & LT85 even though they are very different in shape. Current LT85 is one fitted in 95 so not as old as the rest of the vehicle, still seems a good strong box.

All of the kit is standard the tank for under drivers seat and all the bits to make both tanks work in terms of guage switch over. Very useful people like Western will have probably posted microcat pictures of the stuff. If you have a 110 CSW dashboard there is a blanked switch hole on the gauge console for the fuel switch over switch. You'll love the 4.6, if it's carbed go for megajolt if it's Efi the megasquirt it, Hybrid from Hell and FrigeFreezer are the men for that.

Folding axle stand, they fold down small and have a reasonable capacity, however, they must be assembled correctly. I usually have a hi-lift and a bottle jack with me if I'm doing a nice long tow with the diving club boat.

Just Mild Steel, I might go the stainless route later, a crazy man on a boat forum has reccomended a straight through 3" exhaust so I'll need to think about this long and hard as that wont be cheap. Other thoughts have been an Ali-sport LPG kit to give it some boost welly when towing...

I'm starting to feel optimistic and excited here chaps! Thanks for the wisdom, when I start I'll be posting pictures of how it goes, mind you I did say that a year ago and have enjoyed not putting in the petrol my V8 would have burnt!

I've got what claims to be a 2500kg crane, I could use a load leveller to move the COG but they are limited to 500kg some pictures of where/how people sling a load like that would be very useful. And yes bone idle is one of my better attributes, thank you.

Has anyone left the transfer box in place and then refitted the engine and main gearbox coupled together as one assembly or am I just being bone idle?

The pipe in question for anyone else who may need it is a stock Steve Parker part and maybe a stock Land Rover part I'll post the part number when I get home. £40 delivered, not the cheapest but quite convenient. Will let you know how it sounds when the engine is in....

Cool, it may have been Steve Parker that did this one (it's second hand to me) I'll give it a go. This will be a temporary measure till I have saved/made a 3" straight through...lovely!

Bit of a long shot but, does anyone know if a centre section removal pipe has been made for the 110 TD? I've got a full "custom" system for a 110 Land Rover/Isuzu hybrid, tried to find a pipe to replace centre silencer and the chaps at my parts place said loked just like the TD (non-intercooled) exhaust.