pete3000
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Posts posted by pete3000
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RTC3511/FTC2783/FRC8221(old part nos)superceeded by FTC4785 inner seal, FRC8222 is the outer seal part for inner FRC8221. check first though
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think I'd be inclined to start looking at the other side of the pump. If you have changed the filter sedimenter and lift pump. Do you have a good supply of clean fuel when you crack the 10mm bleed nut on the wing filter when the engine is running? Is the rough running there on idle or just under load?
One other thought is air getting in the leak back tubing, have a look for diesel around your injectors with the rubber cover off the engine. The rubber tubing perishes between the injectors. can lead to an airlock like a misfire on a petrol.
After that i recon it's time to start investigating the injectors, unlikely dirt has got that far, but maybe 1 is sticky.
P.S how old is your cambelt?
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may have sucked some dirt up from the tank if going uphill, change fuel filter and bleed the air out. Then give it an Italian tune up
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you could technically delete the outer seal if your inner seal is good, this way the oil will lubricate the bearings from the axle tube. Just need to make sure your drive members have washers and your end caps have a blob of sealant on.
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I used FRC6139 hubs, and hd 110/130 solid rear discs they were allmakes, FRC7329 listed as front/rear disc same part i have.
Stubs FRC8540 I bought 2 new ones as my old ones had ridges/rust where the oil seal was leaking.
Pete
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I've just used some RTC3511 spec for classic rr on my disc conversion, they seem to be fairly universal. Mine is an 86 with a 21s Salisbury that was drum braked.
There are a few other part numbers for oil seals i found along the way, there is a bearmach defender axle part diag on google images somewhere.
edit: mine was also leaking, found grit had got into stub axle /oilseal area running a nice groove into the stub and wrecking the oil seal.
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Been on my conversion today, slowly coming together. Couple of things worth mentioning. The spacers I made were 6mm bang on. Once the caliper is snugged up i need another 1mm to center the disc in the middle of the caliper or not bother. For the effort i might just shim the caliper using a spring steel shim on each of the caliper pads. Using original early drum stub axles, 200tdi front hubs, 110 hd mintex discs and stc1268/9 calipers.
Bolts for the caliper brackets were (per side)
2x 48mm M10 8.8 Set Screw
2x 58-60mm M10 8.8 Set Screw with 2x M10 nyloc 8.8
2x 35mm M10 8.8 Setc Screw with 2x M10 nyloc 8.8
Bought 50mm Bolt and 60mm Bolt but unthreaded portions will not go into axle bracket enough, So needs set screws fully threaded.
The outer edges of the 6mm spacers MUST be flush in line with the radius of the caliper bracket or the disc will foul the radius portion. the inside by the axle tube is not as critical.
RTC 3511 oil seals need to be tapped in gently with another scrap rtc3511, to obtain one first try to fit seal using a block of wood.
which collapses the seal nicely.The seal inner lip needs to be under the lip by 1mm-the main lip should be recessed by 4-5mm. Don't forget to put the greased wheel bearing in first.
Pete
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I was speaking to a mate of mine within the garage trade recently (he owns a garage that does tyres/MOT's etc.) he informs me that traffic police officers are all qualified MOT Inspectors-they have to be to be able to pick things out/up during roadside checks etc. they do one MOT a year and that covers them for updates on the current rules on new things VOSA bring out, As far as I'm aware the wheels and tyres have to be within the coverage of the arches
John
Perhaps they should use this " alleged new found knowledge" to inspect their own cars/panda cars. The amount i see driving about with a light out or dirty reflectors or number plates is uncanny. Yet they'd be the first to tell you about it.
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as well as the steering wheel being on the wrong side is the gearbox the wrong way round (1 forward gear 5 reverse), like the Italian tanks used to be?
Coat-Door
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you can substitute a normal plug lead? the covered ones are only there for radio noise suppression
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btw if you are after a cheap source of isolation rubbers for your fan cowl or for other peoples 300tdi air filter mountings, search ebay for "go cart exhaust bobbins" or "exhaust cotton reel" m6 thread work a treat especially for the 300tdi. (may need m8 for the fan cowl can't remember)
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19j was the old turbo diesel just before the 200tdi, check your alternator bearings aren't shot. My belt went due to colapsed bearings in the alternator. the giveaway was the no charge light flickering more until it stayed on. then the temp creeping up. the belt must have failed for a reason have a look for rubber dust on offending places. You could remove belt and give the alt a spin by hand to see if the bearings are smooth or gravelly, then check the fan/water pump boss the same. make sure the fan isn't catching the radiator or the metal cowl. (look for bright shinyness on rad or cowl). my cowl also dropped first weekend i had it because two of the three isolation rubbers had perished allowing the cowl to drop onto the fan.
HTH
Pete
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I see all of your points Jamie, and agree, but for the most part I see a lot of Land Rovers that in this day and age that are completely firked, I mean basically run into the ground, little or no maintenance, bodge it to get by after a breakdown, poor welded repairs, scary wiring additions and a general lack of care, but when for sale, that owner thinks its worth serious money just because it starts.
If I had been the previous welder on this Discovery of mine, I should hang my head in shame, same for the "intetesting" wiring additions that got ripped out a long time ago, I am not saying that from an enthusiasts POV but just a general WTF do some people bother to try when they either can't or are not willing to do it properly, I spent countless hours fixing other peoples work, it was depressing to say the least that some donkey went to that much effort but still failed to achieve a satisfactory result in their accomplishment.
Looking forward to Monday, easy fix so should be ok.
Could be any second hand car I have bought/worked on. from mini's to Vw's to Audi's to minibuses. The problem is people mess or tinker thinking they are saving a bit of cash instead of getting/paying someone who knows how to do it. Then they bodge it, make it worse then offload it for cheap when the repair/fix/bodge doesn't pan out as expected or is likely to cost more than they have.
My latest second hand (dealer bought) VW has just had £4500 worth or warranty work with most of that being on injectors and egr cooler. Luckily with the warranty they were paying. The difference with older LR's if you know what you are about and CAN do the work yourself the bits are plentiful and cheap enough compared with French or German marques. Unless you own a P38 of course now there's a different story....
They break common part usually and wear out others often but the supply of parts or basic mechanics means they can be fixed or mended almost anywhere with spares from various sources.
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tunnel is a different profile for r380 vs lt77. my or may not have seatbox storage under drivers seat if 110/90
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is there a cable? i thought it was a potentiometer which asks the becm nicely to make the car go faster/slower. I know the kick down switch is just that which holds the gearchange longer. Also the sport/manual button changes the resolution of the pot so the power comes on with less travel of your foot.
10/1 your flat battery is being caused by a mk1 or mk2 alarm rf receiver. you can buy a mk3 for £170 which won't wake the car up every 2 minutes from your 448mhz wireless door bell or you neighbours weather station or baby monitor etc.
Pete
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Addendum. To cross drill the transfer box input gear, buy, obtain or borrow a 1 1/4" diameter brass bar about 12" long, turn it down to fit inside the gear - this is so you can hold the gear in a vice on the vertical drill stand you will be using and so it will be horizontal and you wont be gripping the face of the gears.
Wrap the bearings with masking tape to ensure no metal filings get into them.
You will be drilling through the gear in the area between the two sets of gears.
Next using a Tungstan Carbide Masonry drill, re-sharpen it very carefully (No excess heat or the solder material will melt) to the same cutting profile of a metal drill, or buy a very expensive carbide metal drill about 3/8" diameter.
Drill through the transfer box gear - slow speed lots of pressure with lots of coolant/lube, once your drill cuts through the outer case hardening the drill will go through the steel of the gear fairly easily until you hit the inner case hardening, same again and drill through the brass bar and right through the other side. Turn the gear 90 degrees and carry out the same exercise, run an old main shaft through it to remove any burs, clean it and bow it clean with an air pistol.
Job done, remove the masking tape, wash the gear in solvent, re-oil the bearings and refit it.
Or you could just buy one ready done, for not much more than a standard part. Blue box ones are cheaper
Recon main gearbox may be the way to go, you will need your old box for the exchange unit anyway unless you have another £250 knocking about.
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it looks like there should be a press stud to fix to the glass then a ground or earth via a bolt hole, +12v should be on the single spade terminal when the radio is on. the coax connector should go back to the radio.
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found a link to the workshop exploded service repair, i wouldn't click on too many links on the page but in the abscence of another source it will give you a good idea of what you are looking for.
http://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/discovery300tdi/86_electrical/repair/antenna_amplifier_97_my/
the amp module can be seen if you search for "discovery 2 antenna amplifier" on google image search
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It's worth checking the simple things first, do you have an antenna on the roof? or is it an on glass trace in one of the quarter lights. Some use the rear heated screen and an amplifier. If it is on the roof make sure you have a antenna ( some one hasn't nicked it)
next pull the radio forward out of the dash and make sure the connector is in the back of the radio. Could try a different radio to eliminate the set from your enquiries.
If this is ok have a look at the traces on the windows if you have no physical antenna and see if they are connected to the amplifier module.
Otherwise a new antenna or amplifier might be needed
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Fantastic well done
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2-3kva would be about right for a 5hp engine, likely made for kango (hence the sticker). more likely a mecce-alte or a syncro, Briggs used them quite a bit on their cheaper generators.
Spares for engine or alternator? try small engine services, or direct equipment supplies stratford upon avon (google)
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Simply 110/90 wolf canvas won't fit a 110/90.
The wolf rollcage is quite a bit higher than standard, so you will have a lot left draping over on the sides of the tub, this will also affect the vertical drop on the rear of the front doors and the tailgate.
The tub fixings for the majority are in the right place or near enough, but you need the height of the rollcage to achieve the correct length.
Other things to be careful with, you will need a flat type screen header rail for the later td5 on / pvc hoods £70-100. Yours is probably a round type channel at the moment.
HTH
Pete
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is it syncronised? becm syncmate? not sure of the symptoms requiring a resync though, does it say anything useful on the dash?
Other than that what about the crank position sensor?
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I had the same problem a few years ago, with my new wipac crystal poly carbs. My solution which is still in place, is a gasket made from a length of old flexible silicon/squishy ps/2 mouse cable. Diameters of cable vary but as I had a bucket load of old mice I selected and cut two lengths and put a dab of evostick on the wire then stuck around the unit. PVC cable isn't much good as it wont squish down
Cant remember if it was in front or behind the unit but it has been there a few years without issue.
HTH
Pete
which collapses the seal nicely.
defender 300TDI - ENGINE RUNNING ROUGH ON IDLE...- what to check
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
without spending a lot of money, or any in fact, you could rule the belt timing out by fitting the belhousing/flywheel timing pin and then take the inspection plate off the injection pump and check the timing pin fits there. If the timing is off it will show up as a misalignment. You can make your own locking pins with a wading plug for the bellhousing drilled for the pin dia think it is around 5mm the pump pin you can again use a 9.5mm? drill check the tech archive for proper sizes
Good luck
Pete