pete3000
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Posts posted by pete3000
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really? thats a b*gger. You could scrounge a pump from a bmw or vauxhaul omega from a scrappy. Just keep the electronics from yours and swap onto the new mechanincs ( the becm is coded to the pump). M51 engine is in many diesel bmws.
Just out of interest how did you arrive at the the injection pump?
Pete
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needle lift sensor is on an injector (the one with the wire coming off) inj 3 or 4 from memory. it might be worth trying the leak off tubing bits from my old post below first. (cheaper option)
have a look at the wire coming off the injector for chafing or damage. The other two codes may be red herrings
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=62977
Pete
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mig all the way, a decent set should be able to do thin stuff and work up to 6-7 mm. The portamigs are nice 15a min setting and a decent duty cycle. however if you arent feeling that spendy a clarke 151te turbo or a 160 with gas would be a good choice. Wait for a vat free day at machine mart.
Pete
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Missed opportunity, someone ought to ask him for drill anything drill bits
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I have the jsp ones at a fiver which I find great, especially working underneath LR's. They also do some blast proof
bolle ones at £15 but i am struggling to see a need for these unless you do extreme grinding. -
Right, after driving out last night in the dark down some "B" roads i now need to replace my sealed beam lights, combination of poor illumination, poor eyesight (age related LOL) and dismal weather conditions i couldnt hardly see at all as other cars came towards me and couldnt drive above 40mph.
Question is which lights have you replaced yours with and are they any better than the others, Not going down the HID route.
There are some replacement items on flea bay.
Crystal freeform.£32 + delivery = about £42 http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1423.l2648
and some basic replacements. £19.99 + delivery = about £29 http://www.ebay.co.u...d=390442005327
are the crystal really worth the extra?
I replaced my sealed beam units in the ex-mil 110 with some cheapo H4 units then had to do them again after 4-5 years as the silvering was rusting off the units. I went for the wipac crystals and was suitably impressed with the fit and finish. I managed to retain the mil fittings, and using a gasket (usb cable off a old mouse) they fit nicely without any play.
Definate upgrade over sealed beams and nicer than the £20 jobbers. I put a set of halfords gold brilliance bulbs 50/65W? in when they were 2 for 1 (£12 pair) and they throw enough light for me without needing aux lighting.
Helps to check your wing earths at the same time and run another back to the bulkhead if necessary
Pete
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is what i had a while back, it was £20-30 cheaper then when metal was cheaper. Done all my landy/ldv bushes so far. uses a standard bottle jack so not too spendy if you need to replace the jack part. Bolts together so you can take it apart to store it flat.
Pete
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Were the auto-box and transfer box done with the engine? probably not if LR were paying. Factor in a good few servicing bills and £1700 if these need doing and realistically means a purchase price of £3000ish.
Not sure the limited edition would carry much weight if i was buying it. Just mean special trim bits were more costly to get hold of.
Owning a p38 requires deep pockets and a love of the marque, trying to reason it's good value doesn't add up. But then the enjoyment driving when it is working is nice.
Things to look for air spings, condition of and eas working (changes height and holds the height)
ABS modulator condition
air con working and heater etc
2 keys and making sure car doesn't flatten battery over 2-3 days.
rusty tailgate? bottom edge of lower tailgate
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not sure what the question is, but if your wife wants a quicker 4x4 shopping car get her a freelander.
Easier to park in tight spaces and easier on fuel/tax on the pocket. The thought of trying to do a p38 engine transplant and all the associated becm messing would give me a nose bleed, not really a winnable situation.
Pete
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try http://www.steering-racks.co.uk/
Kiley Clinton in Brum, used them for ldv and defender, no grumbles on price or service. They do a vast range of vehicles and all re-con work is done "in house". The ldv box has been on van three years and still like new.
Pete
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Only one wire goes back to the gauge, the other two, one ground (black) and a feed from +12v to sender from your diagram it looks like it is perm live, though I would take that with a pinch of salt. Shoukd be switched live
The ground should be obvious if it looks like a tack welded lug onto sender body (not insulated) then try swapping the other two round.
found this link for 90 tank, http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=19112
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Dave is a guru when it comes to LR auto boxes and transfer cases. See his website for prices etc.
From what Dave says the transfer box will be the problem, and won't cost as much, or be as much hassle as a new gearbox. I changed one in a day with a trolley jack and cradle. The one i did the viscous coupling had had it and the chain had done 100,000 miles, so was ready for a recon.
Pete
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hi, i want to charge battery on wifes p38, is there a certain way i should do this, because i think last time she had warning on the dash, 35 max, tried to jump it earlier and the horn started going off and central locking was going up and down, this happened same time last year battery dying every few daysbut battery is newish 18months, any ideas cheers dd
The 35 max is an air suspension error isn't it. usually if the vehicle can't raise off bump stops. Likley to be caused by jumping from flat batt. Seen all sorts of strangeness with low/flat voltages, all four indicators lit up and stayed on (not flashing).
If it's anything like ours the flat battery is caused by the alarm rf receiver being an older variant that wakes the car up every other minute and flattens the battery. You can tell if this is happening by waiting till night time (easy this time of year) and looking at the centre console there is a red light next to P on gear shift.
If you lock the car or even just close the door to and leave it two minutes the red light will go off. If it comes straight back on without you doing anything it has woken back up from the rf receiver in the back right hand side quarterlight panel.
This draws 2 amps from the battery every time it wakes up, to power the becm.
The frequency the fob/receiver uses is the same a some wireless weather stations/ doorbells/ door openers/ wireless energy meters etc etc.
the cheap fix is to unplug the blue wire (antenna) which goes to the glass antenna, and use the remote (fresh batteries) within 1-2 foot of receiver.
Or
Buy the new rf receiver which works properly for £170
Or leave the rangie on trickle charge when not using
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from low mode or select N and leave 5 secs, then move to high mode all beeping and flashing should stop and gears should be lit on high side. Try going from high to low the same i.e go to N leave 5 secs move to low N leave 5 secs and lights should switch over and beeping should stop. then try D or reverse. If no joy try 1, 2 or 3 to pull away. If this works the ashcrofts hp22 autobox page has a breakdown of the fault.
If this doesn't work it might be worth cheching the cable/rod hasn't slipped on the selector fork under the car. As P shouldn't have nasty noises, the adjustment is done with a couple of m6 nuts, just remember to mark/measure before adjusting
After that the only thing i can think is the torque converter has had it, if the noise is permanent through all positions PNRD123 etc and you have no drive.
Then best give ashcrofts a ring for more expert help
http://www.ashcroft-...iewCat&catId=79 two 4hp22 faq's
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It's QVC JML syndrome, I "occasionally watch" 10mins of QVC on diy on a Sunday for a giggle and once or twice have caught myself going "ooooooo.... that's nice". A slap with a wet haddock soon sorts it though
.It's worse at shows, where a live demo can drag you in. I still have a JML turbo drain snake thingy
and some dodgy measuring jugs..... .... but enough of that. -
Just noticed in MEW (model engineers workshop mag) that triple x trading? are at the show Sandown racecourse 2-4 Nov http://www.modelengineershow.co.uk/
Exhibitors listing in the mag
See if you can get a refund
or take some mild steel along 
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watch the cheap inverter series, the more expensive inverter units are fine. However the cheapies dont do true 50hz sinewave. This is only a problem if you want to use sensitive electronics i.e laptops anything which uses a high frequency switching powersupply (non-transformer wall brick).
Older units brush/less alternator can be prone to voltage swing under varying load, the newer avr type regulators are a safer bet. if you only need to run a laptop the a dc-dc converter may be the way forward, and run the fridge off gas.
In this case you could buy/fit an aux batt and a split charge unit.
A decent solar panel could be same price as a genny and the fuel is free, although does require the sun, which has been a rare sight in the uk this year.
The most useful output off the smaller generators is a 12v 5a for batt charging.
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w/l is warning light i.e small 24v bulb to battery. b1+ is to batt set 1 (2x12v in series), b2+ optional to batt set 2 (2x12v in series) ground goes through bracket to engine earth etc. Can't remember if it's 90A each batt set or 2x 45amp.
The screw thingies at the front are grease cups, give a 1/4 turn every 1000miles or every 100 hours or so.
Will fit the 2.5nad or 200 tdi in the a/c gap. the 300 tdi changed to a standard size alternator.
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ABS, Nylon, perspex or acetal, how much were you looking to spend? £4 for two doors doesn't sound too spendy
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The older 1.9 and 2.5 VW engine are nice as has plenty of legs and low down torque 130-150bhp.
The newer 2.0tdi pdi is rubbish by comparison, no torque low down and a short power range towards 2000rpm which is gone by 3000, along with the built in faults (porous heads, injectors, balancer shafts etc.
The newer cr tdi are a bit new to tell yet?
The Ford/Jag offerings are worth a look as well, 2.2tdci in transit, mondeo and puma defender. 2.4 duratorq in older transit.
2.7 tdv6 in jag and disco/range rover sport
I would steer clear of anything french and italian from my previous experiences of grand cars. (every job costs a thousand pounds) and the wiring is magic(smoke can be seen regularly)
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As long as you aren't in a rush or time is money you should be fine. Sounds a lot for a mig? any links to the machine? there was a list of machines rated on here a while back.
My clarke 151te turbo was under £300 a while back and is fine for diy use, it is only rated 20% duty at 130A or 60% at 75A and 100% at 55A.
I rarely use it above 50% power. chassis welding is 2-3mm thick (when on new metal)
If you are looking for a nicer machine the portamigs range from 185A-235A, the 235A with a 100% duty cycle at 105A is under £700.
Plasma cutters are good for fabricating, or chopping lots of metal out, but for rusty chassis work a decent grinder with selection of wheels may be better and cheaper? Just stay away from cheapo chinese plasma units with no warranty/support/spares.
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I've used famous four for bits for years without hassle, no experience on their workshops though.
Always found them polite accurate and honest with mail order and costs/timescales.
Pete
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off a wmik or wolf, bit more stone/fod protection than std plastic. Got an idea you can buy similar new from various suppliers. Worth? £80-100 newish
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Seriously though I'd support the engine and gearboxes on a crane then undo the props, revove the crossmember and undo all mounts cables wiring etc inc all cables, pipes then drop the lot to the floor, on a skid or skate.
Then lift the front of the body up and drag it free? not sure if there is clearance to drop engine through bay there should be.
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and some dodgy measuring jugs..... 
or take some mild steel along 
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P38 2.5DT won't fire.
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
this post may be of interest, re swapping pumps and types
http://www.landyzone...lem-113500.html
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/replacement-diesel-engine-p38-161117.html