pete3000
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Posts posted by pete3000
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up the wire feed speed and don't loiter, try and get both pieces cleans as you can with a slight gap. Use leather sleeves ear defs and an apron over your nether regions
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looks about right for dismantling, I recon some evostick impact should stick the felt back if you push/slide the window in to keep it tight in place. As long as you only glue on one side eh!
I' may change my round twisty locks for the lever up/down sort as I can never see or remember which way is locked/unlocked (although nor can anyone looking to nick it)
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There was a guide on door tops in one of the comics a while back. I must dig it out if i can find it. I think it involved removing the glass so may need to drill the rivets holding the lower strip. otherwise someone on here may know a better way.
I,ve got mine to do.....one day......... as the glass rattles something terrible.
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worth a go on a 24v regulator if you can get the right model i.e a127 at a good price. Or get a small lorry alternator and adapt.
Pete
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Using my best google fu, 10 minutes threw this up from your part no? http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@hyd/documents/content/pll_1303.pdf
looks to me like yours and sounds feasible t-series brake low speed high torque, or close to it.
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http://hydliterature.eaton.com/literature/
any good? maybe low speed high torque motors, can't see the model number from your photos though.
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looks a lot like my draper, older model but 2 tonne HD. Draper part no 37174. google for manual "draper 37174 manual" draper/sealey often only difference is paint colour
may just need topping up or bleeding of filler plug. I read in my my manual if you open valve handle by twisting you can give a few pumps to bleed any air out.
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worth having a look if the thread the nyloc goes on has a hex opening in the end to take an allen key, then you can use a ring spanner over it. I did one on Tues which had such a nifty feature. It was on the drag link? ball joint (other end from steering drop arm)
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2 numax cxv-x 1000's for me for the last 3-4 years. They are cheap and have a re/green/black eye on them so you can see when they need change or charge. they have normal round taper posts and m8 bolts for hard wiring.
I got mine from tayna. around £70 each which isn't bad with a 3 year warranty
I run them with national luna split charge, and two isolators to switch everything off except a solar charger to trickle them on the few nice days we have each year.
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black smoke is unburnt fuel, have you tried increasing the air? i.e try a new air filter. You could briefly remove the filter for one run up/down road.
I didn't realise you were en route overland, if you have done a few thousand miles across dusty roads it may be clogged?. Worth a look before the timing pins etc.
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Yes that's what the inspection plate is for, to check/adjust pump timing sprocket. You will need to put a pin in the crankshaft/flywheel bell housing as well, but can use a spare wading plug with a drill pushed through a tight fitting drilled hole.
As for clock or anti clock the timing pins will dictate the correct timing/position.
When you adjusted it before did you change the timing belt?, did you wind it round 2 complete revolutions then re-check the timing?
Mine had moved slightly as belt settled in. HTH
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autoland 4x4 in dunstable may be worth a ring if you can't find anywhere closer in London. They offer a no fuss service for engine/gearbox work and might be able to source a unit for you?
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might be the stress/weight of the door mounted spare twisting the frame onto the glass. If the door /wheel area is corroded one of the internal strengthers may have let go and pushed into the glass on the lower edge.
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near or far makes little difference, the effort is getting loaded and unloaded into a transit sized van ideally (lower load area).
once it's in it's just driving.
For the difference in price and quality it's worth traveling. Like some others say go bigger than a myford if you can, money will be about the same and you will get a lot more in terms of capacity and features.
The myfords (and cowels) are very desired by model engineers and clock makers so this pushes the price up for anything related inc accessories.
My advice would be a boxford A series or a colchester or a southbend, try and get a screwcutting gearbox if you are doing threads later.
i.e as an example nice vsl advertised as being single phase and variable speed. and plenty of kit
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0906.... support line Yes m8 stay on as long as you like, just listen to this recorded info whilst i boil the kettle. and I'm all yours at £6.50 per min.
Works for a certain budget laptop manufacturer beginning with a
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little box thingy is only a capacitor/coil suppressor to reduce interference on old am/mw/lw radios, you could leave it off if not needed.
as far as it goes at least your bulb and charge light are normal,
however if light stays on there is an voltage imbalance or problem with the alternator. The wl terminal or smaller spade terminal is needed to supply a small amount of current at 12v to the field winding of the alternator to excite the field and produce a bigger amperage on the other two larger terminals.
When stationary the voltage difference on wl should be near 0v to provide a circuit and allow the lamp to light, when engine is spining fast enough the voltage rises and the lamp goes off as the voltage is being produced is close to that of the field winding. Along with this the voltage from the car is monitored and the higher the battery voltage the less field current is produced to stop the battery from overcharging if the load is low.
I'd suspect the regulator pack in your "new" alternator, the alternator is providing a voltage out as you say but it may rise too high without correct regulation (via the field current). 14.9 seems too high for comfort 14.2-4 would be better.
If the alternators are identical and you can't return your new one it may be worth swapping the regulators across
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came with my guards from first four off road, although you can get them from lots of outlets
aluminium or stainless, google metal p clips
http://www.hellermanntyton.co.uk/site/products/clips-and-clamps/alu9c/211-15090
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think i used a rivet with a slightly bigger washer on first to spread the squish. The thinking was the ali to ali would be ok and couldn't get to the back of the panel easily.
my mini p clips were rubber covered aluminium so no worries with strength.
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Having removed the hardtop and tub for some "crossmember remedial work" I had a masterplan to fit a soft top for the summer (you know those few days we have). I aquired a soft top/tilt for good price and have a flat type screen rail. However finding door surrounds or even at a reasonable price seems to be slow progress. The other reason being I can get the soft top back on quicker and by myself if needed to get to impending MOT
My question is can the 90/110 items do the job, with minor fettling?
My thoughts are the door gap/screen rail /and tub by door are unchanged from 110 spec, but may need gutter/ angle adapting for the tilt or roll bar ? anyone comment or experience with a side by side comparison.
TIA
Pete
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is it a critical part?, i.e is is a load/bearing surface or just a distance piece? if it is not case hardened, or precision you could get one knocked up on a lathe as it doesn't look too complicated.
Pete
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I'd go with a rad flush also, get the hose and run it through back and forwards a few times. Only way to get a good load out is to take the rad out and turn it on end. Don't forget to wash the fins on outside also to remove off road mud,flies etc.
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decent silicon sealant, works well on rubber, should stick to footwells if they are clean and you key it with a wire brush.
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52mm, like anderzander says get the box spanner, the socket set versions are 2-3 times the price.
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I retrofitted a 300tdi/r380 to my 110 ex mod 1986, I had to modify the seatbox and replace the tunnel and plate that sits against the front bulkhead as well as the floor plates. The tunnel and plates are screw on/off job in 30 minutes or so. But modifying the seatbox required "more effort".
I used a scrap corroded 300tdi seatbox for the flange then gradually reduced my lt77 seatbox until it fitted the profile.
The r380 tunnel is quite a bit wider especially on the rhs as you are sitting in it. The area by the handbrake is the biggest lump.
Pete
Fog lights on MOD 110
in Military Forum
Posted
should be on the RHS column yellow/red on on side of two pin connector. If you are missing the switch as well, do what i did and fit new one from a range rover classic, They are almost identical for wiring/plug except slight bend/angle on shaft and flat end on switch instead of square end.
Difference is price... almost double for defender version...although correct one on the bay is £20ish.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-110-130-REAR-FOG-LIGHT-SWITCH-PRC3432-/370574881325?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ADefender&hash=item5647fbf22d
HTH
Pete