pete3000
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Posts posted by pete3000
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If you cant get access to rear of wheel, how about removing top portion of column by dropping top mounts to allow it to drop towards seat. Not sure of mechanism but there should be sliding portion for distance adjust and tilt should come off uj of some sort. By removing drivers knee plastic and surround. Once out you can get it on the bench for better access or swap out for another.
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keep an eye on milweb, the prices are usually fair and will have been owned by collectors or mv enthusiasts who would rather they went to a good home. The number of people I know who have sold up due to insurance/tax/mot and the decline on number of mv shows isn't helping prices.
http://www.milweb.net/classifieds.php?type=14
pete
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yup, what they said. 14mm 12 point for the disks and 13mm 12 point for the caliper bolts. The bolts on the end of the axle tube which hold the wheel station/swivel housings are 13mm 12 point but you need a good quality ring spanner or offset ring spanner, not enough room to get a socket handle in.
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If you have checked the above and pulled multiplug to disconnect the rear loom and pulled the bulbs from the front and it's still low resistance it may be worth checking behind the dash tray, the loom comes up behind the dash vertically before exiting behind the plastic cover centrally on top of bulkhead which splits many ways. Left for headlamps/sidelights/heater/wash wipe etc right for headlight/sidelight/brake fail. then you have some for engine block/glowplug timer. Then some thicker ones for rear loom multiplugs.
It is possible to trap the loom behind the metal heater box/dash or it may have worn through with age/vibration.
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the loom for the rear portion is on a multiblock by the drivers side bulkhead, (all rear loom is seperate down inside of chassis rail box). you could try unplugging here and see if it's a greater resistance.
not sure of colour could be red/black. May also feed the number plate lamp as well.
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Useful info thanks Puffernutter for detailing. Just done rear brakes including bleeding. Disco2 shares common parts so don't be surprised if you can find cheaper by looking for disco parts with mods. My example on other post was rear mud shields, £80 P38 or £22 disco2 with cutting some metal from axle tube profile.
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Thanks for the input guys, I had hoped that there would be some wonderful revolutionary devices amongst the kit which would be of some use on my 90. But the only part I would actually use is a wading plug
and that's why it remains unused, you can rest assured the military probably paid a couple of hundred quid for it
The most useful bit is the bag it is stored in, that looks waterproof. And the seat covers if you go wading.
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Some of it looks recognisable, the reason it's not been used from stores and has been given away is probably the climate they have been to doesn't contain much water.
The plug with the blue lead is probably for blanking/sealing the radio battery box charging unit.
The seat covers are waterproof, probably after the event to stop you getting soaked from sitting the wet sponge in the seat squabs.
The quantity of grease/plugs is for sealing misc electrical/radio connectors. And the binnacle cover/green dash cover to stop spray.
The waterproofing value is dubious, as you can't seal the back of most of it, it's probably to stop big bits of mud/sand getting into key barrels/plugs or moving parts.
There should also be a couple of hard links to add to the tailgate to allow water to exit rapidly once you drive out of the sea/off landing craft.
The rope I think is purely to stop bits floating away from the rover
I have seen instructions somewhere which details fitting and removing the kit, but it is in the region of 2 hours to fit and 1 hour to remove per vehicle.
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I had that with es9000 shocks, the +2 inch suspension lift actually means +4 inch extra shock travel. as the rod and the body are +2 inches. It's a right pain with brake lines etc. unless you have something to limit the travel like a spring hanger then some dislocation cones are worth a purchase.
I found out the hard way you can't clamp up braided brake lines, they don't unsquish afterwards. Meaning you need to buy new or use a stopper.
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2 worst parts of cambelt change IMHO, undoing the LHD viscous fan nut if it's "a bit tight". and the cranshaft pulley (undoing the bolt, drawing it off then having to retorque it).
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3-4hrs the radiator can be removed to do the cambelt, easier access. Some people leave it in.
Once the timing cover is off for the cambelt then the water pump is easy enough.
I.e all the jobs are linked and contribute a bit to the total.
If you were just after the water pump then not such a big job, just a bit of a fiddle around the timing cover and idler
Get a metal P gasket set for your new water pump, it's a useful fit and forget, instead of the red porous version.
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Ah didn't see that past my sandwich.
In that case if they are still doing the job, it's definitely a job for when it gets back, pushing the rusty pistons back in before an 800 mile trip could be asking for trouble.Or if it isn't broke yet, don't tempt it with a small fix/repair which will turn it into a bigger job or break it sooner.
Pete
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My front brake pads are getting a bit thin, I haven't touched the front brakes in the 5 years I have owned the landy (only do 4K miles a year) so I thought I would take the opportunity to give the them an overhaul. I've ordered a set of mintex discs, mintex pads, new OEM seals and bearmach stainless steel pistons. The thing is, I have an 800 mile round trip to Scotland next week with an RTV/Navigation style event when I'm there and I will be really pushed for time to do the work before then. The picture below shows the worst side and I'm after an opinion of how much pad material is an acceptable amount and whether it is appropriate to leave the work until I get back? The thinnest pad currently measures 3mm.
Can't see well from your picture but depending on the state of the pistons in the calipers, they may need looking at as well. Running the pads low leaves the piston exposed to the worst salt, dirt road muck. This will eat at them more than if you are running new pads which sit in the caliper.
Pete
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Wasn't a utility back sign written L200 or similar was it? i.e mobile number or 08000 instead of area specific landlines, tree work or tarmac........or any sort of business which you could move about week to week
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ebay seems empty,depends how deep your pockets are try either withams, pa blanchards, drop zone surplus. or milweb.net ads. You will get one it just depends on how much you have. A cheaper route if you have the roll cage and soft top would be to fit one or two rad haz kit's off ebay.
They are good value for money, in tems of keeping down the condensation and adding a layer or 2 of insulation (trapping air between layers. Make your own fume curtain with a tough poncho over the front roll hoop. This will mean the heater only has to heat the front 2 seats.
The rad haz kits are closed cell foam covered with mica/antistatic bag material which works well as a moisture/heat barrier I have found.
worth asking the surplus seller linked, he might be able to help with hardtop or know where to find one.
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Sorted it, a light rub with the file, 0.5mm on the casting and 0.5mm on the hub, has allowed the hub to revolve with 1mm clearance. The components used if anyone is interested were
SEB500460 and SEB500470 calipers
2x LR017952 discs vented
4x AFU1031 caliper bolts
1x FRC6403 shield
1x FRC6402 shield
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valeo 130 £88 kit (should include bearing) or AP (non HD) around £60. If i was doing it again i'd fit the hd. get a decent small cable tie for the pushrod clip into clutch fork, nylon66 esque, like a hellerman tyton or similar that don't uv degrade or go brittle in a short while. Forget B&Q or maplin pvc ty-raps or cable ties.
Pete
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If you are getting it done then it goes without saying put a branded new clutch in anyway, the only special tools you need is a trolley jack transmission cradle and ratchet strap.
or hire an engine crane and support it through the middle seat with the access panel and tunnel cover out.
The rest is nuts and bolts, theres likely to be a guide in the tech archive.
edit here is one,
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grating noise could be clutch idler bearing and/or slippers on the clutch fork? how many miles since the clutch was done? any wading or pay and play to contaminate it or bearing?
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Got the pictures out tonight and the caliper to confirm what I wrote down originally
picture showing nuts fitted
outside dia 45.2mm
inside dia made mine slightly bigger
depth reading 30.78mm,
HTH, Pete
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The overall depth/thickness is 10mm, 3mm on the washer portion, then 3.5mm radius into bearing and 3.5mm as the sleeved tube portion, you can lose some of this last bit though say 0.5-1mm less, depends on your needs.
The inside tube dimension is 42.3mm which should be a sliding fit on the non 300tdi stub to the shoulder, the 45.2mm is the ID of a wheel bearing sliding/push fit. This should also be the same Dia as the stub tube plain portion.
You can see there is not much in the way of wall thickness, its a compromise between a loose fit and thin wall and sliding fit with adequate wall.
The OD of the 3mm washer portion is 64mm although not critical I used the same dia from the old washer.
Made mine from 303 stainless, as I wanted something tough enough which wouldn't rust yet machineable.
I built mine up on the bench to gauge the measurements, using an old stub axle, bearing, my finished hub, another bearing. then used a depth gauge to find the 7mm to bearing surface.
then measured thickness of 2 nuts and lockwasher to allow 3mm washer and yet still have 1-2 full threads showing on stub axle.
It's worth mentioning if you use only a thick washer which are used on front stub axles you will need to do some filing as it fouls on the stub as the nut is almost tight, from memory.
Phew.
Pete
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will measure for you when i get 5 mins
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it's 110 series3/110 swapover or 86/87 as far as I can get it. It's been a pain geting the oil seals for the correct year as it was on the crossover of series3/110. Originally a 2.5 NAD it was running solid discs at the front and drums at the back. Everything else looks ok it's just the now thicker caliper body is being caught by the hub inner face. I may bite the bullet and get it apart again to fit the longer studs.
I've since found the rtc3511 oil seals fit's front and back.
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I'd be tempted to try and cut it away to fresh steel in pieces until you are left with nice horizontal welds you can do from the top/side. Even if it means putting repair section in in more than one piece then grinding it back to match.
In that case if they are still doing the job, it's definitely a job for when it gets back, pushing the rusty pistons back in before an 800 mile trip could be asking for trouble.
Rounded out Torx head - impossible to remove?
in International Forum
Posted
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustable-Steering-Column-OMB101950-Land-Rover-Discovery-2-TD5-/370921998175
picture is worth a thousand....... 4 bolts and a pinch bolt on the uj