pete3000
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Posts posted by pete3000
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Don't discount the switch itself, my 20 odd year old switch had clagged up contacts and wouldn't work for an mot until i rattled the swtich back and forwards to wear the grime off. The switch is a two pin jobby so you can remove the intrument shroud and bridge the loom with a wire to try the foglights. Wire trace should be red/yellow after switch think it's blue or blue/red to feed the switch with 12v once the headlights are on via the blue wiring
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771-8281 socket (female)
771-8275 pins (male)
all in one connector and hood http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/d-sub-connector-kits/7659570/ (hood should fit either)
or hoods
hth Pete
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A Crackerjack pencil and pen...?
Took the 110 for MOT, it failed miserably... At least I know what needs to be done! It's now in storage until I can find somewhere to get it stripped and rebuilt.
Thank you for all your help!
Bob
Go on then,, what was the MOT verdict. does it need much work? There is a wealth of info and help on here, just ask. And remember avoid the dreaded blue box for moving parts
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Wera aren't at all bad, they do the red/yellow insulated stuff for electricians, yellow range have the hammer through on the bigger sizes. The green ones have a diamond etch on the blade tip to grip fiddly screws. They won't break the bank either, screwfix do them.
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depends on your train of thought, wider tyres will have a lighter footprint, narrow tyres will tend to sink in more, depends if you are driving on icy roads powder snow or deep stuff. i.e trying to stay on top of the snow or trying to find something a bit nicer underneath.
If you want to go wider the generals and the BFG's will start to get expensive quickly, The coopers may be a better bet.
P.S G90's even new are pants in snow, for anything other than straight line acceleration I know from experience from a couple of years back, G90 tyres and rain, ice and light snow is not a good combo.
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BFG at T/A s or general grabber at/ at2 for all round good purpose grip on varying winter road conditions, assuming your using them not just for the trip.
The cooper discoverer stt are more aggressive MT, slightly cheaper and can be studded?
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If you have it starting on diesel now after lengthy cranking, i'd go with either air bubbles in the clear tubing from the fuel filter meaning air is getting in overnight? via leak off or fuel lines or needs glowplugs if it restarts ok when hot.
Not a BECM/sync issue if it will fire and run albeit roughly.
Glowplugs are likely to have one or two down depending on age and service history, you can check current draw but they may be carbonised/sooted up anyway?
Cant beat a hotstart kit to give you a bit more fuel with glowplugs on hotstart or borderline enough fuel making it to the injectors though.
Sounds like you're almost there.
Pete
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Remember the seat frame only needs the captive weight of the seat to be restrained, the seat belt mounts (captive nut plates) should be there slightly outboard and much more substantial.
The downwards weight of the passenger is the biggest force, supported by seatbox and some m8 nuts/bolts from sliding/moving. Followed by the rocking forces, side-side and acceleration.
In the unlucky event of a front accident you only need to hold the weight of the seat, the seatbelt
(lapbelt 
) should restrain the passenger.Pete
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think that's the problem part Ralph, the green/silver bit, might get an old cork one and six fibre washers
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someone ought to ave a word then, i used one of these kits with the green/silver washer thing
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuel-tank-fitting-genuine-wfe000190kit-esr2000kit-nrc7570kit-p-6638.html
back to the drawing board, just hope Ralph hasn't had this annoyance as i recommended the kit for the nuts and bolt selection etc after he did his chassis change.
This was the tank, http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuel-tank-stone-guard-8698-8689-bearmach-ntc2017bm-esr2243bm-wfe000190bm-p-8025.html
purposely didn't buy blue box.
Pete
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help In order of expense........ the fuel pump as you say is electric and once you key to pos2 you can bleed the air at the block with the banjo bolt on the end of the clear tubing from the fuel filter. if the engine has been progressively harder to start from COLD then your leak-off tubing could be perished, the same tubing can be used to replace the vac pipe onto the inlet manifold.
To check this disconnect the mass air flow/corrugated end jubilee clip after the air filter, loosen the hose clip on the left of the engine and swing the ducting up and out of the way. Remove the 5mm Allen bolts and remove the plastic tray, then check the ends of the rubber tubing back to source.
Another £30 ish and you could check/change your 6 glowplugs if they have never been done. You'd tend to have a clue these had gone as you would have a lumpy start and possibly white/ unburnt diesel previous to non-start.
The fip does have electrics and a sync code paired with the BECM and this can become randomly unsyncronised, the cheapest way of sorting this is a syncmate from black box solutions. You'd be unlucky if this has happened but no real way to tell unless it suddenly wont start at all one day. and youv'e been over the above £100. video on youtube. You'd have no unburnt diesel as no fuel goes to injectors
On injectors the 3rd or 4th (can't remember) has a wire which is an anti-knock signal which alters the map slightly to prevent oscilation, the full description is in rave.
If it wont restart or start from HOT then it could be a worn FIP, the cheapest option to extend the life of the pump and your sanity is buy and fit a hot start kit from ebay. £25 ish.
HTH for now feel free to give me a shout if i can help.
Pete
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Sounds as though it's not been joined properly and the paint sealed the hole - assuming you're talking about the bolt flange fitting to the tank sheet. Have you got a photo?
not yet, although i double checked the seal before I fitted it. The tank had been thinly painted at source so after I put the fittings on and checking I gave it two coats of chassis black, then waxoyl.
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First time I had brimmed the tank on Saturday to the neck, got 2 miles home and a steady drip drip drip. had a look all the pipes and hoses were fine. Sender was fine. Leaking from area around pickup flange on top of new tank.
I did crossmember a while back and fitted a Bearmach tank and all new parts and fittings. The new tanks have through holes for the screws (old tanks used to have blind holes). So when I did the job i was careful (not enough) and made sure I had the green rubber/metal washer thingy and even put a dab of hylomar on top of each screw thread.
Well I drained 10 Litres of diesel off in short order and the leak stopped, as it must be below the top of the pickup flange now.
Not looking forward to getting it all down again so soon, at least I used new tank fitting kit.
Any one experienced this or have any better info on the cause, I'm sure i read about this before but can't find any relevant posts.
Pete
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Googling the AEU4026 p/n you gave is listed by some a s a 6 Bolt gemmer box.
Not a 4 Bolt Adwest? I reckon you have wrong thread.
Any good? give cackshifter/westerns NT614041 a try it's 75p at the end of the day and you wont wreck the thread on your new box by waiting a day or two?
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hubs can be left on, but drum needs to come off, doubt you'd damage the oil seal (or wheel bearing) but it's not much more of a job cost wise to check renew anyway while you are there. Use a brass drift and lump hammer.
get the drum off by taking the slotted screw out then wind a bolt into the other hole to press the drum off. Be careful though it may not be a metric thread, i.e don't go nuts at it, it should go 5 or six threads before it stops and you need to give the bolt more pressure to release the drum.
Different part numbers relate to the length or what they are now called, different numbers
FRC5926 is same as RUF00020 and 40mm
FRC6137 is 45mm
FRC7577 is 60mm
P.S to pull them back in use a socket and large washer and wheel on backwards to wind them through, the studs are splined so you should be able to line them up roughly when you push them in.
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is it the right thread or have you been sold the wrong nut i.e metric/imperial or something weird. would be symptoms for me to look at it first thread starts then binds
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I've seen it first hand, the royal marines used it in their waterproofed 110's. The plastic heater tray/box in the wing is deleted and the metal plate pipe is mirrored under the wing with a 90degress bend to go towards the air fiilter. pushed into the side of the underneath metal pipe section is a collection of 6mm tubes to carry the breathers from axles, gearboxes and engine timing cover.
The heater hose is re-joined to the heater box using a flexi/rigid pipe and jubilee clips from memory.
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http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/diesel-p38-radiator-baffle-not-236640.html
Sorry it's a link to another site mods, but is quite an eyeopener. g1no worth a look with a denatl mirror/ torch or similar. page2/3 shows another yt vido of the missing baffle. pg1/2/3 names some of the sources it could have come from?
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interesting vid, found it while looking for a drain plug pic, just shows you what is about via cheap suppliers/cutting corners. More info in the full view on youtbe comments. Sadly I can't find a bleed nut photo, however if you loosen the top hose by removing the clamp and wriggling the pipe it should have same effect. You need to see if there is air in the rad, it wont come out of the bottom as this is the drain plug. (water is heavier than air :-))
P.S doesn't look anything like your new rad does it? :-0
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you may be able to leave the thermostat out completely to see if it makes any difference, can do on defender, check to see if it will seal once bolted back up. if both the rad pipes are hot there must be flow, just depends on how much.
You can crack the nut open (dont unscrew much) on top of rad when running cold/warm just watch for splashes from the viscous. Don't do when hot. Water should emerge freely as it's under pressure from water pump. it should also let any air locks out.
See how you get with the diesel fan/vcu, If no good Then I'd be looking at a new rad.
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bet that was pleasant, with last weeks heat so the radiator in the car (heater matrix is working) I'd also conclude the water pump is working from this if air from it stays hot.
So you could conclude it's either the thermostat is stuck shut, i.e does the rubber pipes get warm to the radiator?
Give them a squeeze and see if they are full of water. P.S don't dangle near the fan.
if the pipes are warm crack the bleed nut on the rad and see if there is water coming out under pressure i.e the pump is working and water circulating.
what colour is the coolant/water, pink red or greeny blue? ok. rust and muck may indicate the new rad story was a lie.
David still had some good advice of changing the vcu for the fan. as no change in noise likely means all the oil has left the unit. This would mean the temp rising quickly once it's warm and you stop moving or climb a steep hill slowly. I.e ask it to work hard without providing airflow
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ideally you need a multimeter which can measure amps as a start, if this is only happening with the ign off you could start with any circuits which are powered only when off. i.e clock, radio, alarm, rf receiver. alternator.
By removing a fuse or removing the positive feed to each circuit/item in turn you can trace your current draw. Place the meter onto A range and put the meter in line with the supply to the item powered (not between pos and neg)
i.e with keys out and everything switched off lift main battery red pos lead off and connect the negative meter lead to battery and pos lead to +ve battery lead you just removed. make a note of reading in amps. (positive reading means leads are correct way round, dont worry if reversed)
replace main feed and next go to main fusebox 5/6 fuses? and remove each fuse in turn and put meter leads in place of each fuse blade you are looking for sum of main current.
My betting is on a dodgy rover alarm ecu, they were renowned on the older rover 200/metro with the 2 button fobs for battery drain of 500ma when faulty.
HTH
Pete
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If you are getting the fan off, don't bother trying to clean vc as it's a sealed unit, David had some good advice for you along with part numbers. You still didn't say if you were losing water?
Pete
(lapbelt 
) should restrain the passenger.
p38 auto box no/ minimal drive
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Does it work better manually going up the gears i.e start off in 1,2,3 instead of D? The sprag clutch can go as described on Ashcroft transmission pages http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/automatic-gearboxes/zf4hp22.html at the bottom of the page.
P38 we have wouldn't do reverse well until it had warmed up, and hesitated on change up's from cold in D, which is another common fault where a filter gets blocked up in the internals (not the one in the sump).