pete3000
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Posts posted by pete3000
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Hi Everyone,
As a new owner of a RR I have now joined your forum.
I am still fining my way around the new car and have a query. When I park up after being out in the car, with the engine off, I've noticed a clicking sound from under the bonnet followed by what sounds like a high pitched tone. The clicking sounds like a gear trying to engage or disengage. It lasts for a few seconds after the engine is turned off and key removed,followed by the tone which goes on for about a minute. The car is the sport version 3.6 Tdv8. Should I be concerned?
Clicking is most likely air suspension valve block levelling the car. As long as you have air suspension? the tone could be associated with this if it sounds like air escaping.
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The new pattern General Grabber At's are superb, road noise is quiet,(compared to the scorpion stt)they replaced. the local tyre fitter mentioned how well they balanced up as well. They feel firmer on the corners and they go well in the snow/rain.
About £110 each
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*takes 5 seconds to work
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In my previous topic, ' battery change 'I explained how my alarm system was locked up, I would now like to know if I can
tow on 4 wheels without selecting transfer neutral, as I cannot do this with no electric, transfering the vehicle 100km.
on a lorry will cost almost what it's worth here in France, the french do no like big petrol engined,right hand drive,
English plated machines, if I can tow, what distance is the max ??
This might help, if you have a battery with some charge in connected to vehicle as normal you can try putting gear lever to neutral then a 5A (or higher) fuse into the becm (under seat) fuse box, Fuse 11 which selects N manually just for this purpose.
You should have transfer neutral on your display. Not sure if it works with alarm system in your state but worth a go.
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Sorry Testbook T4 is a diag computer kit (trolley)used by LR dealers for a range of later LR marques. It is well out of the price range of us or many independants (usually). Even an hour on the system will cost in the region of £120, supposedly to get their investment back)
There are a number of alternative diag boxes, hawkeye, rovacom, however few will do what you are talking about. (Black box solutions BBS) may be one option for you if you are technically minded. A look at rangerovers.net pages and bbs forums should allow you to see examples of what other people have done and give you a bit more info.
Some independants may have an (alternative box), some may have a mobile service to travel to you to sort you out
It's worth asking on the forum to see if there is anyone in spain who could help you.
Pete
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or if you find one with a nato jaw hitch on the back crossmember like they used to have, you can tow 2 or more home, al a airport baggage train.
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have a look here for more on door locks, you could try the key in pos2 procedure.
scroll down to bottom of EKA porcedure for sticky door handles then read posII info.
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Sounds like your door lock switch is fried, try a rebuild yourself to keep the code. it might only need a new microswitch at the back. Don't disturb the electronics too much though.
Or you can get an independant to rip out the alarm/immob function. Needs Testbook T4, or bb msv with extra module sw. main stealer usually won't touch it. Needs 1/2-1 hours on computer to unlock becm.
Check your insurance company won't have a fit first?.
Pete
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take the battery negative off again. (nothing to lose). leave it 10 mins, drivers door shut (but window down if you can)or another door if not and bonnet open.
Key at the ready, put the negative back on, alarm should go off. pop to drivers door lock and unlock the car using key.
To signal key entry, within 30 secs get key into ign and pos 2. Up to this point you should have had alarm going off.
you shouldn't have any funny engine immobilised messages hopefully.
Then push open and close buttons on keyfob to re-sync.
This all assumes your door switches are telling the becm to wake up/expect a key in ign within 30 secs. Are you sure you were able to use drivers door lock before battery failed? If your EKA code isn't working either this might be a good place to start, with the drivers door switch.
door locks aren't interchangeable, the 14 digit lock code is sent to the becm when you operate the drivers door switch. One from another p38 will draw a blank.
Good luck
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Hi, Matt, beer swilling speed freak here,
Now you mention the reason you are after the torque low down and the power I can see why you were asking the questions to begin with, and respond. A little background info would have been useful to base my reply on. In my limited experience of the P38 BMW diesel engine and threads about it, it is best not to modify it much beyond a PSI box.
My brother has such a box on his, which was present at purchase. The only thing it does as far as I can make out it is modifies (increases) the amount of fuel by fooling the sensor above the fuel filter and another value into the engine ecu.
Inside the box is a pic 16c57 with a few external components (about £5 worth of bits in total). For £300 retail its a bit pricey.
The reason I said to leave it alone is the stories I have read of diesel owners chiping the engine and using the extra power all the time flat out, which leads to overheating of cooling system and egr turbo temps. Warped heads result. If you look after the cooling at the same time by way of a bigger intercooler and new radiator/electric fans, to keep the engine cool it should be o.k
Regular oil/filter changes as you say are a must.
From what I can make out the BMW engine is underpowered for towing/performance use. The main use for these engine was bmw 3/5 series and the vauxhaull omega, and to sit on a autobahn all day in cars which weigh a lot less than a p38. Search BMW M51 engine tuning. The follow on engine the M57 was a lot nicer, finding it's way into the newer 3/5 series and the RR 2002-2008?.
As Geoff says it takes a bit of winding up to get it to speed, once there the revs will drop back and it is relatively civilised.
Towing a caravan or trailer on country roads/inclines can be wearing with lots of revs and not a great deal of progress.
This is the reason people search out chips and tuning.
Based on your use for the RR I would say the engine is probably the weak link, I would personally have gone old school with a RR classic, disco or defender with a 300TDI minus ecu/egr for simplicity. If cash was more plentifull I would buy a disco 3 tdv6 tomorrow, they can tow 3.5 tonne without even knowing it is on the back. I run a 300tdi ex mil defender which has no problem towing anything but is really not for everyday/long journeys.
Hope this helps, a bit more than the original post.
Pete
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Lifes too short to worry about RR BMW diesel performance. If it works leave it alone.
Accept that nothing "extra" happens when you put your foot down apart from an increase in noise and fuel consumption.
If you are after performance fit a V8 (and find a whole new set of problems to discuss, with slipped liners and warped heads).
It's Friday, spend time/money on beer.
Sorry I'll stop it now. (3hrs 47mins 20s to the weekend)
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Depending on the vintage of your 110, your headlight wiring goes about 8-12 inches back from lamp bowl then has three bullet connectors (red yellow blue)or 0v main and dip. worth checking here that nothing has dropped off or been swapped over e.g main with dip. The lead/headlamp assembly can be checked on the bench by disconnecting. Have you got sealed units or halogen?
The multiplug on the back of the headlamp should come away with a little effort once rubber cap is eased away from bowl/sealed unit.
Halogen H4 check spring clip isnt shorting the 0v and beam/dip.
Worth noting the early military wiring is split LHS RHS for headlamps, and unhelpfully front and rear for sidelamps.
Also military glass fuses are rated holding current not blow. So a 2.5A side lights fuse really needs a 5A blow. and headlamp 7.5A hold needs 15A blow. I was o.k with mine until I plugged the trailer in.
Worth checking the centre light switch for faults, ther is also a spare three way block behind the light switch for civvy spec blue red and brown column switch. Brown perm live feed, red side? blue dip? dip and main beam are done from column stalk?
you should be able to track down a mil wiring diagram fairly easily, things like balckout relays and convoy lamp positions only complicate efforts.
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Are they deffo 50W bulbs? not 80w bulbs? which would give more amps?. Just thinking out loud. You can't really measure 16A on a standard DVM, you could take all but 1 bulb out and try on the 10A range of a DVM. Should give around 4A.
Remember the fuse is only there to protect the wiring, so if you have 40A cable 30-35Afuse
Other wise I'd go for
low volts to the relay, less volts = more current. Check feed and earths
Cheapo relay and or fuse holder. could only be rated peak/intermittent amps.
Have you got a pic or part no of the fuse holder, It should have some meaty cable to avoid heating issues
something like te 30A version of this as a minimum,
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/fuses/photo/fh430.jpg
loose short to earth after the fuse in cage screen area?
Fuse holder should be blade or maxi fuse for 16A
Relay 40A I'd go branded, VWP Lucas etc. not halfords.
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Yeah never thought of that, it might be an MOD spec part, didn't they have some 65p light bulbs which cost £22
, earlier this week according to BBC news.It should say as once fitted to Nimrod, to plug in the Sat Nav/map reading light.....cost saving measure.
Just seen the similar mod spec blue crimps the same guy has at £275.00 you do get 50 though
£5.50 each, anyone? -
Just the job for your dashboard, a snip at £475.00, but P+P is free
Either its supposed to be £4.75 or it's some sort of over unity power device which generates 12v without being plugged in.
Anyway 5 lucky buyers already.
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If you're putting in effort on an engine-upgrade and want to keep it Land-Rover with all-off-the-shelf parts, there's only one path - go TD5.
You haven't seen the TDV6 transplant then?
you wouldn't need to do it again for a bit until someone does a kit for the TDV8 twin turbo lion engine. Have a look on here somewhere TDV6 was shown recently, maybe in int forum or tools fab. -
Yup try http://www.mez.co.uk/page12.html bit on rf receivers. This interference was a problem for my brothers p38.
Confirmed with a radio scanner on 433mhz.
Easy test at night/dark park up and switch off. close doors and sit watching the gearshift indicators. The park led will glow faintly while becm is awake. if your becm goes to sleep after 2mins it will go out and stay out until you open a door.
If you have interference it will go out briefly then re light, then again after 2 mins etc until flat battery and annoying alarm events etc.
Solution of removing antenna lead connector from unit works, or you can buy a new spec rf receiver at £165.00
Pete
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get some carbide/diamond burrs, or some grit burrs should fit into a corded/cordless drill or die grinder.
ARC eurotrade or RDG tools should sell them
Pete
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Bit expensive to buy on a whim but if it's as good as it says may be worth getting to paint onto all the steel bits?
anyone any experience?
Nah! it's rubbish, I had one and the wheel fell off.
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These are a few niggles. I bought a RAVE CD, and found out it was the EGR valve so im not bothered. Starting issue traced to in tank pump. Drag link has wear in each ends balljoint. Ill do the work myself for a few hundred pounds.
Why wouldnt i buy the vehicle?!
Good work Rob, some good points mentioned by David, another source of spare diy bits is p38spares.co.uk, also found rimmerbros to be helpful when trying to find more obscure P38 parts. Doing the work yourself is a great way to learn and save money. Plenty of advice and help on here read through the tech archive, and the range rover sub forum for some of the more commmon issues, also the rangerovers.net page (which has links somewhere to landywiki)
Pete
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1 - rear wipers dont work. common for motors to go? Is there a fuse?
Probably there are lots of fuses, engine fusebox by battery
2 - ride is pretty bumpy and it is very vague in the steering department. I am looking into new bushes and balljoints. Anything i should know?
It's fairly standard, bushes and tyres?
3 - EAS seems to deflate as soon as ignition is off. Bad?
Yes, not ideal as it will put pressure on your compressor, trace the leak with some washing up liquid on high ride height
4 - what is the valve in the attached pic? I found a hose from it to the engine is split.
not too sure breather/filter for fuel/oil system, just replace hose
5 - possibly to do with 4 above - cold and hot start isnt working very well at all. I am aware the M51 has hot start issues. Its a strange one. I can sit and wait for the glow plug light to go off, but it only seems happy to start from cold if i start it immediately after the engine check light goes out (looks like an injector) Leak off pipes, glowplugs or diesel pump (s)? replace leak off pipes and do glowplugs if high mileage
6 - seems that my main cabin vents have no warm air from them. The foot ones are fine, the side window ones are fine.
1 heater blend flap motor may be stuck, 3 in system see rangerovers.net page
7 - all the A, B and D pillars look awful. The material has come off them!
8 - looking into fitting fog lights and heated electric seats. Is it similar to some cars where all the looms are there but not connected? As in can i connect fog lights for example and go from there?
the looms will most likely be there, but thats the easy bit, becm has to be programmed to turn on dealer fit options (foglights)(electric seats)
9 - ABS light stays on until i reach some speed or distance moved.
standard light check feature
10 - Where is the BCEM module? under drivers seat behind fuses (actaully part of it)What options do i have if it is still 'buzzing' after i remove the igniton? Previous owner said the battery goes flat after a week of no use, but i suspect its the BECM as i have heard it can do this.
likely to be dodgy rf receiver, behind rear right hand seat see mez page for info
enjoy Pete
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I have a question to everybody. I am looking for LR Defender 110 as cheap as possible for spares.
Thanks
Pawel
Depends what parts you want for spares.
You could buy 1986 soft top one with chassis rotted through with a 2.5 petrol or diesel engine for next to nothing off ebay. Not much useable though
Or get a 2007 plate accident damaged from a salvage yard for £6000 upwards
really depends what you need??????
Pete
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Do you have a rear door mounted spare wheel? may be catching the wiper arm putting load on and stalling the motor
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http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=62977
worked for me, bit biased as I wrote it.
, earlier this week according to BBC news.
£5.50 each, anyone?
Re-spray
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
going to do my 110 in the summer £35 for 2.5l nato satin green and £25 or so for paint pads, sanding blocks, masking tape, brushes and a dust sheet, tack rags