pete3000
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Posts posted by pete3000
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i have an old water fire extisher with a tyre valve in it, fill it with the oil i need pump it up pull the triger oil in if not a bit fast
Get a newer fire extinguisher with the schraeder valve already on.
superb for filling RR auto boxes whilst running through gears to fill valves as per the book. wreck the anti dribble rubber valve with a flat screwdriver then attach a length of flexi tubing from the homebrew shop pushed over the squirty end. Pressurise just into the green-point and shoot.I'm not doing my boxes any other way now, I have a draper/laser 500ml syringe pump, which I shall keep for topping up axles but not refills, as these leak down your arm and all over the drive.
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nuts on the bottom of the 90/110 front shocks, which weld themselves on.
s#!tpart fuel tanks, hate the 90 slightly more than the 110 (which needs doing again). The nuts and bolts on the tank bracket were put there by magic and the 90 tank doesn't fit between the chassis rail and bodwork without "modification".
Pete
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for people who subscribe (pay) for weather forecasts the most humourous thing i saw was an air traffic contol tower window with the words "weather actual" with an arrow pointing to a circle drawn on one of the tower windows in marker pen
. I have heard the yet another cold winter mooted around since last March, as apparently the ramp up or ramp down from last year will be slow so similar to last year. Best indicator yet the energy companies have hiked the gas and electric before the cold weather.
Bit like the petrol and diesel goes up a few pence before the holidays start.
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Brake cleaner contains trichloroethylene,
tetrachloroethylene, similar. Sounds more nasty (and fatal)than Galv, but you are more likely to accidentaly weld galv and breathe the fume. Also not good for you.
http://www.anvilfire.com/iForge/tutor.php?lesson=safety3/demo
Pete
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combined with your other posts i'd start by checking for poor earths to your becm, after that i'd suspect your becm is shot.
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Thanks for the info i think i will be geting one of these Clarke MIG195TEC Welder My link
Roy
You will need a 16amp feed and blue plug for that on higher powers, i stuck with a 151TE as you can run all powers on 13amp socket. its also half the price of the one you are looking at which will only do 7mm, 1mm more than the 151te.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/151te-turbo-mig-welder/path/diy-mig-welders
for £600 I'd forget clarke and buy a portamig http://www.weldequip.com/portamig-mig-welders.htm
much better job, as others have said get a decent auto dimming helmet, starparts or parweld for £40-50, some long gloves, and gas.
edit: the portmamig will do 15amp minimum which is useful on thin (read rotted) metal, your clarke 195 will only do 30amp min.
Pete
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Did the alternator pulley spin freely before you put the belt on? i.e were the bearings ok, just going back to your glowing red light above?
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The end of the pipe should be able to stick to your thumb and not fall off at idle
Thanks for that, yes it does I've been out and checked it, vacuum pump looks ok. Still not much of a drop of the pedal once the engine starts (pumped the pedal four or five time to get it firm with engine off first)probably drops 1/2" very slowly.
Is there any way to check if the servo is shot?
If it is will a disco1 or a 300tdi fit my older pedalbox/bracket?
Pete
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Most likely linked to the alternator, with the belt off does it turn freely, my older 110 did this after the rear alternator bearing failed seizing the fan/pulley against the frame. It did a good job of shredding the fan belt and leaving me with no water pump or power steering. The tell tale acharge light was on/off intermittently for a few miles indicating the belt slipping/ or as I found out the shaft was stalling the belt out.
Pete
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Or get a roller shutter door?
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Thanks Chris, done the drums and shoes before MOT last year, the drum pistons/calipers were shot and needed replacing. Which lead to the head scratching after the MOT, so I put fresh fluid in and bled through after the shoes had bed in and adjusted. The job wasn't helped by paddocks sending 90" shoes through instead of 110" (shoes don't fit)
Then forgot about over the winter, when the snow was about I never drove fast enough or stopped sharp enough to worry.
After all this the brakes are still pants, and about the same with the engine off. I let it roll down a private track and compared it engine off and engine on.
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When I had a ribbed (roof) I had a lucky escape at the tip/dump etc. The clearance was 2.0 metres my land with ribs was 2.025 metres. the ribs save a more expensive paint job as I only had to repaint 3-4cm on each rib at the top of the angledy bit
Can't you just fit minilite 13" wheels and tyres it'll look wel sic man...
and it'll go in your garageP.S have you tried opening the doors yet in the garage
Pete
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Took the 110 out for a run this weekend, no weight in it really. Noticed a lack of effort when brake pedal pressed and remembered the friendly MOT guy last year saying the "minimum effort had just been met". I haven't used it much about 1000 miles since aug last year.
I did bleed all the lines with fresh fluid and scuff the pads/disc up a bit around xmas. However reading a couple of posts on here I may start looking at the 300tdi vacuum pump tonight first? then move onto the servo. Noticed that the pump err3539? is £50 ish but britpart booooooo....
or bearmach £120 lr original £250 
Am I right in thinking press brake a few time then start engine up and pedal should sink a bit as vacuum builds? if good move onto the servo/hoses?
What sort of suction am I looking for at what sort of revs (idle ok?)
And the next pre-emptive question would a non-abs 300tdi servo assy fit straight onto my non-abs 1986 bulkhead. Especially the disco1 300tdi servos are £20 upwards on ebay, would these fit? on are the master cylinders or unions/bits interchangeable?
If I can get the stoppers sorted I am planning a diesel jim rear axle drum-disc upgrade in the next few months.
TIA Pete
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I was going to keep my paper licence for this reason until I was told, you won't be able to use that (paper) licence after next year outside the uk. That was in 2010.
The passport renewal was bad enough, now thw D/L needs doing every ten years.
Pete
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HI ALL
Hi looking to buy a rr p38 have seen an automatic in pristine condition at the garage down the road.
the thing is i know nothing about automatics its on a s plate with 109k with full service history and only 3 owners from new what should i be looking for an it many thanks paul
P38s the main thing apart from what has been said is the 4.6 v8 engine was particulary prone to slipped liners if overheated/not looked after. Plenty on ebay with "needs head gasket" or "uses water" "overheats" "loses water"
do your home work and it should be ok if it has been looked after (regular coolant changes and radiator in top nick with ample cooling. Be suspicious of bodged repairs
Replacement blocks are available but pricey, for a short engine which then needs rebuild.
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Nige, as a pre emptive strike, book yourself on a decent first aid course. This way if when you next "nik" yourself you wil be able to stop the action and grab the camcorder and get to A&E. The larger the gash you leave open the the bigger the scar. if you can apply pressure and close the cleaned wound you will have much smaller and faster healing scars.
I know what you are saying about A&E though, I'd rather stay away from MRSA and timewasters who go in with an igrowing toenail or alcohol poisoning.
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can't you ask them for a cd in the post? save your bandwidth a bit.
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If you have access to a .ac.uk address then you can get full copies of all of Autodesk's software for free. Favourite one is Inventor so far.
only a 13 month licence tho'. It would be ok if you wanted to have a good look at it before spending £?k on the full version.
I think i will stick with buying the Alibre PE later in the year for £89. If I need the pro version it's £430 ish maybe a bit off with an upgrade?
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Alibre..............will do most of what solidworks/Autocad does without the price tag. Have a look............or don't
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Alibre PE no goo to you $99 from Alibre.com
http://www.alibre.com/products/hobby/default.asp
will do most of what solidworks/Autocad does without the price tag. Have a look, with the trial.
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Bearmach do good quality crossmembers, which I tend to use the most. Richards Chassis now sell them as well I think. The corrosion in your pic is coming from the inside, so the repair is likely to be significantly bigger than you might think. Cut out the rust, clean the surrounding metal where the weld will be (clean metal is very important for a good weld). Overlap the plate by an inch or so, tack in place, then seam weld. Tart up with a flap wheel or grinding disc before painting/waxoyl/etc.
Les.
and don't forget to move your wiring/fuel lines/tank out of the way first.
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air die grinder, you can get in with one of those. £19-20 from machine mart over at Hay Mills get some burrs at the same time.
as long as you have a compressor. Or try a dremel with the cutting disc. Split nut along the thread then get a flat screwdriver in to spread it open and tap it undone.Other method is drill line of holes down the nut and split it with a sharp cold chisel. Might wreck your a frame bolt as well though, if you are replacing it though it wont be a concern.
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no money in it AFAIK, bloke by me went bust in this exact business. The only drive that got cleaned regularly was his
People cut back on non-essential services when money is tight, drive washing isn't exactly up there with food, mortgage, loans etc.
Other nice to have pampering businesses as far as I can see include: dog washing/perming, car valeting, window cleaning, gardening, teeth whitening, fake tanning, nail tarting up ?, eating out, ironing and housemaid services.
Not wanting to sound negative above, couldn't you specialise in light haulage to include drivng old biddies to the shops, rural scheme in ludlow pays 40p per mile for community drivers, saw on news other night, you have to provide a service that is driven by necessity.
I.e people who don't have access to public transport and still need deliveries or visits to places.
superb for filling RR auto boxes whilst running through gears to fill valves as per the book. wreck the anti dribble rubber valve with a flat screwdriver then attach a length of flexi tubing from the homebrew shop pushed over the squirty end. Pressurise just into the green-point and shoot.
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and it'll go in your garage
Spongy brakes little effort
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Well, I have more news re: above. I adjusted the slack out on the snail cams on the back drums. poured fresh fluid through and bled the system through which felt better to be honest. Wednesday was the fateful MOT.
It scraped through again brake advisory min effort has been met 62% las tyear was 67%, so has got worse again
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I am seriously looking at the diesel jim disc conversion, particulary as I tow a sankey and a fair bit of weight in the back.
Any one else experienced drum brakes this pants as standard?
I asked the MOT station about servo being shot, but chap demo'd the servo working and I have checked vac pump, so am at a loss what else to do apart from bin the drums.
TIA
Pete