pete3000
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Posts posted by pete3000
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low tech idea seen on the telly recently, borrow a shirehorse or two, logging rig and driver. If it's a nature reserve they'll love you to bits as they get they get the grass cut and you get the fencing to where it needs to be without chewing the ground up (just the grass).
low impact, no complex engineering or costs.
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Renewal was 25/ this month, today is 12, letter dated 3rd "Outstanding Private Pile"
Nige Just tell them to get a decent spell checkerometer, "occassion"
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or try P.A Blanchards they have lots of shiny parts, especially rare military parts, deep wallet required.
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If you have a few pounds to make/buy a cable try the free eas unlock software, from rsw solutions on a laptop to get the height sensor readings.
I've just finished repairing mutiple faults on my brother's P38 all is good again.
To summarise: Initially back osr corner was drooping even when parked on standard. Then progressed to whole car dropping to bump stops overnight.
No problem lifting so the compressor and tank were ruled out.
Car had 100k miles so checked air bags, fronts were visibly shot (confirmed small bubbles with detergent & water in spray bottle)
fronts were changed out and car still dropped to stops. Backs were checked, on inside edge of car were cracked but didn't look too bad(visible on raised height)
Backs changed out due to age after seing condition of fronts and horrified to find metal cords showing like on badly worn tyres and full of rubber dust.
Even then the car would drop to bump stops only at the front though. So a valve block overhaul followed with new orings and diaphram valve.
This improved things a lot with just the nsf spring dropping after 2-3 hours to bump stop. Finally traced to solenoid valve inner stem valve. Which was replaced and then refitted original solenoid valve coil.
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Seems relay 6&7 are linked in with HEVAC function and have caused problems for mainly amaerican users in the past.
http://www.rangerove...al/fusebox.html
Seems plausible it's more to do with poor contact and or vibration than a blower motor, or an underspecced relay.
Have you checked your blend motors are working correctly, and the AC runs cool?
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Len didn't mean to offend
but initially pitching in and saying soldering is a poor substitute compared to crimping, without any evidence made me react. Having read through your reasoning I can agree crimping when done correctly......i.e with the correct calibrated tools, correct gauge and type of wire and correct size crimps by someone with experience in a production evironment would be a good choice with the right application. However I wonder if these variables and costs are a step too far for the average home mechanic.
Good crimp tools cost an arm and a leg and generally don't lend themselves to many types of crimps. In production environments must be calibrated regularly.
I have crimped my fair share of 38999, suhner, radiall and amphenol connectors over the years, and made properly they are great. However with so may unknowns on landrovers, age and history of wiring, wire gauge, decent crimp availability/cost and the poor selection of crimping tools available for the home mechanic I can't trust crimps over solder. If I must use crimps I will, but never to splice smaller gauge wires.
If soldering is good enough for alternator armature wiring and starter motors I am sure my loom will be fine. I have used crimps on my battery cables with a hydraulic crimper and new wire of a known gauge with new crimps. I didn't solder these as the insulation would have peeled back with the heat on the size of cable.
Don't know if anyone saw the european space agency programme on quest last week, they spent ages arguing about american wire gauge vs european crimps sizes delaying the programme, and resolved it by dropping small offcuts of wire into the crimp bucket to pack them out, to acheive a decent crimp. This brings in what Len said about checking a sample for pull out strength.
Soldering has another useful side effect on vehicle wiring, if the stripped wire is so dull or blackened that the solder won't wet or tin the wire after cleaning the copper is likely brittle and degraded to the point of being useless. The only option is to strip back until you find good wire, or rewire.
Or you could just crimp it,
and hope for the best. -
wrong, just more convienient for people who can't solder properly.Are you 100% set on soldering them ? Crimps , when done right , are stronger and last longer.
wrong, solder costs less than crimps and doesn't look like a dogs dinner.Having said that , if the wire is damaged and corroded it still must be stripped back to fresh copper. But solder should always be a last resort. -
cash needed for "next project" nnnoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo. Just no.
Sell the tools and the paintbrush and buy a caravan. -
rdg tools
arc eurotrade
chronos tools
tracy tools
Richon tools (china)
axminster tools
all good places to browse through
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only a thought, could you not use the bottom tubes off the old shocks (rears?) to extend the standards. i.e slide the std shocks inside the old bottom halfs. you could cut the stud to length or leave the nut on to spread the force. Depends of course on diameter and needing a jubilee clip to apply a bit of grip.
or same idea but with the front shocks with the old tops pushed over?
not recommended for thousands of miles, but might get you going in the short term.
Pete
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or a way to stop access to the stop solenoid and starter motor, thinking of a HD covering plate with a waterproofed immobiliser built in and attached to pump housing with security bolts etc?
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I wouldn't bother with anything that makes loads of noise, it won't win any friends. I would go down the immobiliser route. Custom fitted ones are the hardest to get around because every design is different. That being said there are only so many way to immobilise, but hundreds of combinations on a theme.
I naively lashed out on a clifford concept 50 back in the day, as I had spent a fair bit on stereo gear in my youf. The car spent more time back at the intallers being diagnosed for faulty microwave sensors and dodgy door switch/interior light activations than i had it on the road for in the first year. Still at least whilst it was in their lockup, my stereo gear couldn't get nicked
I finally saw the back of the alarm when I had to have it towed out of the b'ham queensway tunnels as the immobiliser had cut in. Just had it wired out and used the alarm for opening the doors after that. Got shot of all the stereo gear for next to nothing as I couldn't be bothered with loud music in my old mans cars I had after that
Pete
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like this one off the bay ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/landrover-Cyclone-Engine-breather-200-300tdi-ERR1471-/220647869148
£12.75 + £2.50p+p
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hpc gears has a large selection along with data and a selector tool. htd8 any good to you
Pete
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two types of relays on that board, single pole changeover x2 and a double pole change over x1 and looks like a transistor on the underside. looks like an aftermarket fit to control the lighting. Relays should be relatively easy to source, i'd try the earth and the supply to make sure the relay coils are switching properly. From your description It sounds like relay buzz or chatter, can be caused by poor supply or faulty relay.
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You wont get them under the bonnet, or in the wolf 90 side lockers because they don't have any, only the 110's. You should have a fuel filler on one side in the space where you are talking about.Hi guys,
I'm currently rebuilding my 1988 LR 90, and I've come across the problem of finding an suitable place to put twin batteries.
The seat box isn't an option anymore because i have installed racing seats and there's very limited space under the bonnet, as i have fitted an 200Tdi. The 2.5 diesel was a too old and slow.
I have to run a T-Max EW-12500 Winch (I went for overkill with that,), a stereo, spotlights, a twin cylinder compressor, two electric fans, and a radio transceiver with a modified antenna (wich eats up alot of power). I have bought 2 identical 920 CCA batteries to run all this. (Maybe it's overkill again)
Now, I've thought putting them in the underbody space in the wheel arches, about there where LR wolves have the side storage lockers. there seems to be just enough space, but I'll have to fabrivate a box.
Would it be a problem to store the batteries there? They may be exposed too much to the elements, and get damaged by mud, or by the pressure wash. On the other hand, if I make the box too sealed, the batteries can overheat.
Can you think of any other place where the batteries can be put on a 90?
Thanks in advance.
Id go with behind the bulkhead as Steve says, it all depends on if you can get access under the seats. Which is why i went LR/emoor trim seats again when I upgraded.
How about taking some load off the poor alternator, i.e hydraulic/pto winch, viscous fan, wind up radio, or fit a second alternator
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need to take the props off one at a time to be sure? then you can see if it is your gearbox or your axles. Start at the end where you heard the bang. You should be able to see if your difflock is disengaged at the same time.
If it will "move a bit" the I'd be looking at a c.v or a diff crownwheel
Pete
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if your front pads are worn down and the piston is a fair way out of the caliper, the bang could be the piston shifting first thing in the morning. Once it has unstuck it seems ok for the rest of the day. Worth a check before it gets worse. The chrome plating comes off the old pistons causing them to stick.
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must be an optical illusion thing. I was convinced there were two different sizes (for different weights). I know for sure the commercial 2 tonne ring hitch is smaller dia and cross section?
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can you see the 2-3mm hole in the last picture in post 2? this is the barrell release thingy on mine. if you insert a pointy thin in with pliers it release the barrel. You have to have the key in to withdraw it in the unlocked position.
It is on the outside of the barrell cylinder underneath the lock barrel towards the lock plate.
You will see the corresponding locking blip when you get your new barrells.
Pete
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diesel floats on water? if you leave it to settle for a day then remove the tank drain plug to let a bit out see if you have water in. The repeat until water has gone (diesel will be evident) repeat with the fuel filter etc etc.
Must have a lot of water in the tank if the pick up pipe has pulled it through to the filter. A small amout wouldn't hurt as all fuel tanks sweat and have a small amout of condensation which builds into an egg cup full or so.
if you are worried about hydraulicing the cylinders unscrew the 5 glowplugs before cranking.
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The pintle height and ring dia will be a tad large for the dixon bate hitch on a 90/110.
Often see that size trailer with genny's on 15-25KvA behind a 4 tonner
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I use paint pads on mine, they seem to leave a better finish than brush. The foam rollers leave lots of bubbles.
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I had forgotten that thread Western, the homemade tool would be cheaper and most likley work, a fair bit of twisting stress on the long bolts into the damper though? The lr tool boss reaches right to the damper face this means less chance of bending/snapping the bolts as they are under 100% shear force
Good thread, Some good discussion into the pro's and cons of bolt removal.
Mutley, white90's pic on page two shows how the lr/difflock tool goes together.
Nige 
but initially pitching in and saying soldering is a poor substitute compared to crimping, without any evidence made me react. Having read through your reasoning I can agree crimping when done correctly......
and hope for the best.
Milling machine - End Mill Vs Slot Drill
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
centre drills useful for sizing holes accurately for tapping, endmills seem to be imp or metric in few std sizes.
Have found using hss is ok on aluminium/plastic. Use carbide or carbide tipped on steel. Unless you have decent cooling suds pump setup your hss cutters wont last long on steel without stopping or shallow cuts and fine feeds.
Pete