pete3000
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Posts posted by pete3000
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http://www.remlr.com/documents/Wiring/S3%20wiring%20diagram%20-%2079.pdf
might help, not sure if matches your exact year. Does sound like bad earths, check at the lights affected for the b=black wires, which should be bolted to wing box or body areas near to light groups and clean/scrape lugs. A serated washer may help. if the aluminium is really oxidised pick a spare bolt hole nearby and try a fresh piece of aluminium.
i.e rear right light cluster should be fed with multi-colours and all earths from lamps should be commoned together and then be bolted to body earth nearby. In my case behind the rear right light cover on seat box.
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Obviously hadn't got enough paint left to do the inside.
Description should could read. 110GS 1985 repainted quickly in black with tasteful chequer plate to cover corrosion/holes. Aftermarket NAS SVX naff plastic grill and light surrounds, new wheels and tyres. (If i mention WOLF lots people will like it and pay more, despite none of the parts being fitted to a wolf, ever).
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I'd go with the motor bearings as well. I had one of these dd draper units apart a while back, it wasn't pleasant. The pump will sort of seperate from the motor, but he motor is actually part of the casting, and all alluminium. I tried to pull the ally crank and fan off the motor to look at the bearings and ended up trashing the lot.
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Do what I did a while back for a mate, using the casing/bracket you have and transplant a new RR classic motor and bushings in. The parts are identical.
RR classic bits are cheaper.
You are looking for motor shape like this, http://www.ebay.co.u...=item19d36d7b92
edit: TBH after looking at the P38 and disco1 the may well be from same parts bin
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Good thinking that man! I've used these: http://www.ebay.co.u...tuator&_sacat=0 and similar sattelite dish actuators in a number of projects (including adjustable height suspension). They are much lower cost than most other linear actuators and pretty well built as they are designed for outdoor use.
Although they are rated at 24v (mostly), they run happily enough on 12v and could be powered off the tow-socket!
So long as you could lock the whole thing off, it would be more secure than a simple nut!
I can see another project looming!
There are 12v ones freely available, and the fact they are gate rams mean they will be pretty resistant to moving without power.
Or 12v linear actuator on ebay throws few results but speed of these may be slower that gate kit, but cheaper?
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Sorry for dragging this back up a year on, been for mot this morning and with all the bits changed the brake effort was 62%. While a bare pass, I'm going down the disc route as landy v8 has. want to try and retain as much as possible and use the wider bearinged early rear stub axles I have on.
Landy v8 do you have part no's for the bits specced. Or does anyone have a techy guide to axle swap. I've seen the diesel jm thread.
Pete
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or a gate automation 12v telescopic ram, same thing but shielded from mud?If rather slow?!
Maybe a threaded bar plus a window winder motor?
Si
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disco3 use a windy upy downy cable winch thing, so you don't have to lift wheels in and out of wheel well. The major fail though is the windy thing is, guess where? Yep in the boot floor under all the shopping/suitcases etc. Add the fact you then have to get under the back of the truck to release the cable and wind the flat back up there and it's a real bimmer. If Si could design a remote lowerer raiser for the disco3/rr sport etc sure there would be a few takers.
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If you've been paid for the vehicle and have given a receipt I can't see a problem. The V5 is only a record of the registered keeper (not owner). Use the transport agent to get the buyer to sign the V5 and give them the new keeper supplement. If you put a postage paid dvla addressed envelope with the rest of the V5 it can be posted by the agent. You will have a delivery home address where car is going to, so fill that in as new keeper's address.
wemovecars.co.uk or similar advertise the service as no extra charge. Include the mileage as sold and should be good to go.
If you've not had a letter from the dvla in a couple of months just need to tell them you are no longer registered keeper. So as to avoid speeding tickets etc.
Some one will no doubt see a hole in the plan.
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Only if it leaks audibly, use a bit 1-2 turns. Only on inert gas though. Don't use grease or tapes for example on oxygen/flammable gasses
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Might be some more info here, http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk/Clansman.html look under unitary radio kit
only refered to as amphenol connectors, the common mil-c-38999 is used on clansman etc but these look a bit more "vintage"
could do with the emer or ces kit list. I googled "clansman into lightweight landrover"
Pete
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have you got a pic of the sender unit. One is likely to be resistance for level whilst the other is probably a low limit n/o switch for low fuel.
Re: your flashing (low) solid (really low) . Why not get a flashing superbright red led and a solid superbright red led, push them into the same panel lamp housing and voila multi use led.
When power to flashing only it will flash, if you apply power to solid it will be solid anyway even if flashing is still errrrrr flashing.
common the cathodes (ground) and put a resistor on each anode leg back to inputs. Vary the brightness by altering the resisitors slightly, say 1.8k for flash and 1.5k for brighter solid (brighter 1.5k and 1.2k) etc.
Pete
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Looks to me like a lightweight landrover battery box. Only the box though. there is a shed load more needed to allow the table/cage antennas etc to be put in the back of a lightweight.
A defender one is more common and probably cheaper. rough looking example here
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http://www.terrafirma4x4.com/products_php.php?cat=1&grp=22
Sure someone else used to make them originally, but can't remember who. May have been Southdown although all traces of shiny metal things off their site have gone
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Will I get flamed for saying I usually take the satellite telly then?
. Freesat 12v and minidish. Fits into a laptop bag (except the dish) and all runs off 12v. The rest of the camping gear/tent etc fits in the back of the 110 for a week or more away.Certainly beats faffing with waving antennas about, and with analogue gone more difficult to get a signal anyway with a terrestial tuner.
Pete
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C&S tat (on the emlra site) might have some left
http://www.emlra.org/C&S%20Barrow%20index/vehicle_parts.htm
Pete
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http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=42092
Bit more reading for you here
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Maplin kit looks o.k, for basic pic programming. Think it's a veleman kit derivative.
I built my first one, a willem programmer. Well supported with adapters and such not much it wouldn't do. Think the design finished although you can still get the boards and the icprog software. does eproms pics flash etc etc.
If you want a bit more in terms of a dev kit/programmer/modules have a look at flowcode www.matrixmultimedia.com *Can waste over an hour or so looking at shiny goods *CAUTION*
As an aside you can make a budget eprom eraser cheaply using a 9w uv-a/b nail art lamp off ebay £10, and buy a hozelock uv-c 2 pin tube for it. £7 ish.
Pete
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seems to have slipped and put an extra zero on it? Just needs a wash and wax:-)
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You could use a twin walled flue where it exits the tent, to allow the heat to pass on the inner and the outer cooler tube the tent is sealed around.
Found some flue pics here, not sure about the stoves?
You probably know the other bit to go with the chimney, let enough cold air into the tent to allow the stove to burn clean. Your half in, half out is a nice fail safe.
Couple killed last year from bringing in their disposable bbq's later at night to use the bit of warmth after food was done. They pulled the bbq's into their fairly big dome tent and zipped it shut. They were found dead the next day from carbon monoxide poisoning.
Most carbon based fuels/gas/petrol etc will do this if there isn't enough oxygen to burn.
Pete
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Seems 9x9 tent is a generic description, you may need extension poles? which lift the tent canvas up if you have later canvas? not too sure of the versions or applications it may be the lower versions only fit soft top vehicles with the dropdown tailgate?.
http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?11084-Proper-Military-9x9-wolf-command-tents-for-sale!
or shove a couple of bricks under the feet at the door end.
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Depending on what you want to accomplish, a basic 12v IB2 box and a couple of pairs of headsets and pressels may sort you out.
Good article over at VMARS http://www.vmarsmanuals.co.uk/newsletter_articles/clansman_interface.pdf
google clansman ib2
Pete
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booth of some sort, gayzeebo or two or partytent and dust sheets a plenty. Some way to keep an ambient temp to allow paint to dry, then a supply of fresh non-dusty air and exhaust to get rid of fume. You may need resp or air fed mask depending on how well sealed your setup is.
some info here http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/spray-painting.htm
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2.7tdv6 is a family of "lion" engines the 3.6 and now 4.4 v8 diesel are progressions of these.
http://en.wikipedia.....4_Turbo_Diesel
The twin turbo 4.4 diesel is immense throttle lag is amost zero, and pulls like a train. The Ford/JLR offerings of late have been well thought out engines, usually with more than one application.
tdv6 in disco, jag diesels and PSA
rrsport =4.2 supercharger and 4.4 in jag xkr
defender uses transit block
If you fancy the american version, 6.7l powerstroke @ 400hp is out soon in the states.
I'm obviously a diesel fan,
Pete
. Freesat 12v and minidish. Fits into a laptop bag (except the dish) and all runs off 12v. The rest of the camping gear/tent etc fits in the back of the 110 for a week or more away.
Pete
Super mig 150 wire feed not working.
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
mine of info here, http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=27135
more links at bottom of the page linked.