pete3000
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Posts posted by pete3000
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clamp a lump of flat copper behind the thinner stuff to prevent as much blow through. It acts as a heatsink.
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forgot to say I did this a few weeks back so it has worked.
Only difference being one of the 4 previous owners had the locks changed but didn't get it done by or tell LR. Garage also didn't supply the 14 digit barset code (you only find out these important details later). So when we went to get a new key 2 (only 1 key1 supplied) something completely different turned up along with a bill for £165. At this point your only dealer option is to have a new lockset + accessories. £1000
Luckily we eventually found a company which will reproduce a new rf fob For £95 ish as long as you have the old one (working or not). If you have a working one, they send you a box of tricks, into which you record your fob. Send the box back and they send you a key blank and a working fob.
The beauty of this is you can ask for a 1,2,3 or 4 even if you only have a 2.
alarmremotes.co.uk or similar in Co Durham.
They will ask a few question which prove you are the owner of the vehicle
Cheaper than £150 and definitley cheaper than £1000
Pete
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When you say the first key fitted, did it fit and operate the door and the ignition? If so there is a good chance they got the 14 digit bar set code right.
Did you order a key1 or a 3 or a 4? you can only sync 1 of each on a p38
To Sync it: leave the drivers window down (just in case)
1) use working key 2 to remote lock then unlock the car.
2) move working key to safe place out of range of rf ign lock operation
3) put new key in door lock and twist and hold to lock position and short press lock button and release
4) twist back through centre to unlock and hold press unlock button and release.
5) back to centre and remove key.
fob should now work
try in ignition within 30 seconds to see if code learned
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sound like a missing engine/fuel sensor, or a crank position sensor. The fact it fires and runs means there can only be one or two things left to sort. have you tried the rave book. Section19
Pete
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To follow on from this one, with another way in which fraud is happening now chip and pin and delivery restrictions are enforced. Mail/telephone order you ring up order your gizmos give your card details, exp date, last 3 etc.
The Salesperson Fraudster then tags another expensive order on to your card to be delivered express delivery, to your house (card registered keeper address). Hours later you get a phone call supposedly from the company (they have your contact details) saying there has been a mistake with the order, wrong much more expensive item has been dispatched.
Not to worry they have now dispatched the correct item (the one you ordered probably on economy/standard post)and the wrong one will be collected by courier at their expense, and that your correct part will be with you in a day or so.
Wrong item is delivered to your house and you sign for it.
Hours later courier turns up in a white van to collect wrong parcel.
Your real parcel turns up a day or so later, all good?
Your credit card statement comes in at end of month, with both items invoiced and signed for by you.
You ring up card company and shop and say I sent the expensive one back, the courier company collected it.
shop: We have no record of any collection, who did you give it to?
you: Bloke in a white van?
Penny drops.
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Well Pat and others you were spot on, both leading one side both trailing on the other. Although in my defence there was the same amount (top to bottom) of friction material on all four shoes, that were fitted give or take 5mm. Bought some much improved mintex 110/130 HD shoes STC2798, or similar. Beach to get on but they adjust up nicely.
While I was there I fitted some new snail cam adjusters RTC3176, as my old ones were tight and crusty. However the Britpart quality was soon evident. washers and spacers wouldn't fit over the bolt part. Out came the file for some adjust ment. Seeing how thebolt into the post tightened up didn't fill me full of confidence. On two of them the hole wasn't even central. I used loctite and added a spot of arc weld to the side of each bolt head/cam once they were tight. They look/work ok now but another buyer beware britpart item.
Just a couple of axle brake pipes to make up now, after close inspection of my old ones. I decided while it was apart I'd do the brake bleed job once.
should have it all back together next week.
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The boys over at mig-welding are handy! couple of links
http://www.mig-weldi...read.php?t=3710
http://www.mig-weldi...read.php?t=6654
one is sized for 2mm or more? 8mm thick x50mm angle so you can see the thickness you need etc
Pete
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Why not use a small 12-24v converter as used by truckers etc., very cheap. Depending on the load spike, either stick a capacitor across it or a small 24v battery.
Don't truckers use a 24v to 12v convertor? can't see them using a 12-24v unless they wanted to take the car to work. Usually they step voltage down in trucks to use the 12v sat navs and phone chargers etc.
Tanuki, depending on how long you need to use this 1A/16A for, a 24v jump start pack (or two 12v jump start packs) would do the job? just charge off the mains at home would be fine for one or two day use. I am guessing it's 1A standby and 16A transmit or "on" current. If it's extended use a boat alternator on the aircon bracket is the way to go.
Pete
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my only contribution is to make sure you firmly attach the push rod from clutch cylinder to fork with a new plastic clip and/or cable tie to avoid future dramas when changing clutch slave/master. a 27mm socket and breaker bar can help to turn crank slightly if your splines have shifted, or lock the difflock and twist the prop output. That and run a small amount of silicon around the face of the bellhousing before you pinch it up to waterproof it a bit.
You said fork looks ok, is the clutch release bearing and shoes behind the fork smooth and serviceable, they are only a few quid
Pete
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If time isn't on your side a Tormach mill is out of the box, with excellent backup and support. pcnc770 or 1100, for heatsinks etc the 770 should be big enough, although I guess it will be out of your spend.
Less pricey more hobby sized is a seig KX3 from Arc Eurotrade.
Remember the old saying though, you can do small work on a big machine but not big work on a small machine.
It all depends on your budget and how much you can afford to not have your mill at work.
I have a X3 from ARC and by the time I have completed my cnc conversion I will have spent almost as much as a ready built. But then I wouldn't have had the "fun" of doing the conversion.
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Towed a 9 meter RIB ( Cowes inshore lifeboat ) to Southampton boat show, it was so big I had a police escort,
Dragged/recovered a removals lorry that had slipped and lent itself against the house it was delivering too.....
Get called out regulary to recover stuck 4x4's all over the island, when it snowed 2010 I assisted / towed about 60 cars / vans etc in 24 hours, including a ambulance and hearse who both needed towing in the snow to the local crematorium - with 'cargo' on-board!
noooooooooooooooooooooooooooo, the ambulance should have gone to the hospital
unless of course you live in Jamaica. (old lenny henry joke, so laid back there, ambulance takes so long to get there it turns up at the funeral etc...) -
Western's right, Burn't wires have a habit of melting themselves into other live wires, ask me how i know. My sidelight and instrumentation wire behind the dash melted into the dash lighting behind the clocks. leaving the sidelights wired to the brake lights. The only way is to take it to bits and renew as necessary. use heatshrink to sheath in the long term.
Use PVC tape for short term repairs only. VWP stock most items you need but prices hae gone up due to copper price rises.
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bit of an update, after looking at the shoes once they were off, I had fitted two leading shoes on one side and two trailing shoes on the other side, which reulted in the snail cams not catching one shoe on each side which in turn wouldn't let me bleed the back end up properly. Since bought some mintex shoes which are much nicer and more obvious which way round they should be fitted, i.e they have part numbers on and have obviously different amounts of brake material on.
I remember fitting the previous shoes as they were brown parcel taped together as pairs, or so I thought.
Have to admit there is much more useful info on here than trying to follow the haynes/LR w-shop manual.
While I'm at it I'll replace the snail cams, which have seen better days and fit new hard brake pipes across the axle.
Now can anyone recommend a decent brake flaring tool and remember if the unions on a 86 vintage drum salisbury are metric or imperial.
no smilies as new forum s/w doesn't do firefox.
Pete
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Well stripped back end down yesterday, and just resulted in confusion. As it turns out the two adjustments on both sides are only moving one shoe. I can't see a difference in shoes i.e they aren't handed as far as I can tell. They were paddock specials
they have same amount of friction material top and bottom so not on back to front. All four shoes look identical. This is reulting in the two which are turned over not having the spigots long enough to reach the snail cam adjusters. I am less convinced the springs are in the right place at the top of the shoes either. So this is the result for the mostly pants brakes, the master cylinder helped with the sponginess.
Can anyone recomend a decent shoe set? for a 110 salisbury axle on a crossover from series to defender (I had problems with oil seal part numbers, and ended up buying both parts ). Thinking some thing branded mintex or such
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The aussies aren't too impressed.
http://theage.drive.com.au/motor-news/revealed-new-defender-20110831-1jl13.html
Can't see them selling many in that form. They have till 2015 to sort it out, ditching the pimping would be a start.
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The procedure along with pics
and part numbers to try is detailed over on rangerovers.nethttp://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/drivetrain/hubs.html
as escape has said 20tons probably wont cut it you will need a 50-100 ton press
if you buy one there are another 3 wheel bearings and the bottom arm swivel ball jointy things on the front hubs which need this sort of grunt. Alternatively you could strip the hub assembly then take it to a friendly garage with a 50 ton press and some beer sheets?
HTH
Pete
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Well a bit more progress today. had the servo back off to see if I was missing anything, no adjustment as nut was tight on thread and nowhere to put a spanner. On refit realise that the pedal needed to be pushed down about 1cm to allow the bush and washers to go through freely, so same as old one. Glad I didn't adjust it.
Had a look at front end and again looks to be set locked at factory. Compared with old servo 2 nut assembly is just proud of the face of the servo, so I left this one alone as well.
Refitted the master and bled it through. Next job was clamping the rear brake flexi above, in front and on top of the salisbury diff. Straight away the pedal was solid about an inch down so the fault lies in the rear brakes..... somewhere.
Will post more when I get the brakes apart, tomorrow weather permitting. May need to pick your brains on how to bleed particulary tricky cylinders after I've check the shoes are on the right way round etc.
Thanks for all the help so far.
Pete
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Just read through this and I notice you've fitted new rear shoes and drums.
Pop the drums off and check the shoes are fitted corectly, can give just the symptoms you describe if they're fitted backwards or both leading one side and both trailing on the other.
Thanks, I'll have a look later if it stops raining, and try and get a photo or two. tried my mates 300tdi 90 brakes last night and mine is nothing anywhere close to it pedal wise.
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The only adjustment I could see was on the servo where the pin goes through to the foot pedal fork. Although the one I took off didn't have an adjustment, I did look at the new one when I fitted it, it seems to be fitted at manufacture with no adjustment intended? the rod is threaded with the fork having a nut welded into the base of the fork. I tried to move it by hand but the whole rod starts to twist so I left it where it was.
Is there any other point of adjustment? or should I revisit this nut?
It was on by about 3-4 threads, can't see it being tightened much more as it will foul the brake pedal arm
TIA
Pete
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Well bit of an update, I changed the master cylinder and decided on a new servo while it was out. Then set about bleeding the master cylinder first then went round the brakes. Much better feel to the pedal spongieness has gone......
However the pedal doesnt do anything till halfway down (except feel like custard) then feels really solid. This is when the brakes actually work... for the last 2-3 inches and then not a great confidence inspiring braking effort. The old master cylinder was full of black crud and sludge when tipped out so I have no doubt this was the spongy bit.
I have read a post about the rear wheel cylinders being a PITA to bleed the air out of, I am wondering if this may be my next task. I have to check the front/rear pipe clamping first as mentioned above. To make sure I am not chasing wild geese.
Thanks for the tips so far, will continue and report back. I'd like to get the brakes reasonable before deciding on the disc conversion as I started pricing bits and got to £400 then decided to fix the master cylinder/drums first.
Pete
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I bought one of these eBay a year ago and expected it to be rubbish - but I'm really impressed with it.
Nick amongst others seemed to think I was dumb for buying one as it's cheaper to borrow one - but when I've needed a crane, nobody has been falling over themselves to lend me one. I decided that buying a cheap one would be a good compromise.
I would buy the same one again like a shot.
Si
Looks a very close copy of a draper I have, http://www.toolbox.co.uk/draper-02611-2-tonne-folding-2133-120672 good price as well, may not fold up as small as the original one linked, but it can handle the weight with 4 positions/lengths 2000, 1500, 1000 and 500kg on full reach. draper model 02611.
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Like discomikey says, you could be concentrating on the wrong end.
I had an issue with my rear brakes locking up, despite the pistons being clogged up and barely working.
I decided I'd overhaul the entire system and I'm glad I did.
One front caliper had only one piston out of 4 working and the other had just 2 on the same side working because a couple of dust seals were missing.
When I stripped the calipers I found them absolutely full of crud, I couldn't believe how much rubbish was behind the pistons and I had what looked like slate slurry come out of the fluid oilways.
I don't think bleeding the system would have found these problems.
Thanks for this Ian, and Mikey, pretty sure discs/calipers are good as above, rears were done a couple of years back with new shoes and cylinders, I think the whole lot should be better than it is and will start with a few cheap bits mentioned above, The master cylinder and servo are 1986 vintage(2.5NAD), whilst the vac pump and hose are 1996 (300tdi). May change the one way valve and master cylinder first.
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What state are the caliper pistons in on the front axle. Corroded and seized they won't do their job.
Mo
Thanks Mo the calipers and discs are newish, they were done in 2008 along with 2" longer braided hoses front and back.
Worth getting the wheels off and having a peek. As it's not done many miles they might need checking.
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Are you sure there isn't a slight leak somewhere?
Nothing dripping under the car?
Did you bleed the entire system after your work last year or just the back?
Bled the lot,RL, RR, FR, FL no leaks. fluid level, hasn't shifted. MOT didn't find any as I stayed with the test having a chat with the chap. He did say it was probably down to adjustment, but as I have taken the slack out of both back wheels as much as I can without the wheels seizing on, thats covered.
unless of course you live in Jamaica. (old lenny henry joke, so laid back there, ambulance takes so long to get there it turns up at the funeral etc...)
and part numbers to try is detailed over on rangerovers.net
Defender Tracking
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I has got one, it is a doddle to use. 2-3 mins to check. £85 from trackace mine had free P+P
Trackace hold the actual patent. It is sold under licence by gunsons? the only other similar units by sealey etc are £300+
Did an LDV after the kingpins and it was 2 degrees toe out. It had worn a set of front tyres out in 3000 miles. Now adjusted 2 mins toe in. Much nicer drive (for an LDV) and the wobble has gone at 60 (top speed). And the tyre wear is now even.
String is fine for rough check straight ahead, but if you want a bit of toe in or out you need one of these.