Mark

Hmmm, OK, I am getting the sender unit confused with an in tank pump then.... that makes more sense though... Cheers Mark

Quick question for the collective; Is a 200TDI discovery fuel pump - the one in the fuel tank - a high or low pressure pump? Cheers Mark

uber cool! thanks tony!

Some Ideas I have used: Drawers - Home built, heavy, but excellent for just throwing stuff into. You could make long versions if you wanted to? Cargo Rail - Lets you fir tie downs wherever you want them, and is extremely good. I am using both these and the drawers in my current truck. Rear Door Card - replaced with 3mm aluminium. Has more stuff attached to it these days, but this is the picture I can find! also have a look on the Overland Modifications thread, as it has some good storage and load securing ideas on it... hth Mark

That's useful to know. I may well be interested in the td4 tank and lift pump (if that is still in place)... I wonder if someone could do a screen dump / pdf export of the 1.8 vs td4 vs l-series fuel system pages from microcat? Cheers Mark

Could someone with access to Microcat (cos I can' seem to get it working) have a look at freelander fuel tanks for me? I need to know if the 1.8 petrol tank is the same as either the td4 or L-series diesel tanks? Also same question regarding the in-tank fuel pumps.... Cheers Mark

If I was planning to attach a winch and bumper to my truck, and there was any doubt as to the condition of the attachment points (the dumb irons) I would be making sure they were solid. In the case of the dumb irons, the easiest and quickest solution is to replace.

As has been said, I would just do the head work. replace the gasket with the genuine LR item, and ensure the locating dowels are metal not plastic. As I understand it, it is not a huge job, but I would do it sooner rather than later as continued use with a blown gasket can do further damage to the engine. Mark

I am sure there is another good thread round here somwhere with lots of good pictures of where to mount our cb in a disco... however, in the meantime, this is where I had it in my 200. It looks close to your leg, but I never once found it a problem there: enjoy Mark

As jules said, Rear diff bushes and/or IRD are the most likley causes. You may also like to check the Rear Diff itself, check by finding an area of gravel or shingle, and attempt to turn quite tightly while someone watches from outside. The Outer wheel may lock or drag or the inner wheel may attempt to unload any windup. On my dad's car it was more apparent in reverse, but by doing it on gravel or loose ground it was easier to see. Cheers Mark

How about this one?

I need to make up some new brake pipes for the back axle of my discovery, amongst other places, but I don't know whether it should have imperial threaded fittings of metric. My suspicion is M10 fine, but I am not sure they are all that thread - I think the t-piece on top of the axle is different. Can anyone confirm if they are all metric, or if I need a mixture of fittings? Also, planning to use kunifer rather than steel pipe, but can someone confirm what size pipe is used as standard? Thanks Mark

Ah, that makes more sense! I had read it earlier in the thread as thinners, which I would have thought would do a poor job at etching.... As I said, looks like a good job. I have to face up to doing this on the new build, but without the luxury of galvanising! Mark

It's not about the degreasing, it's more to do with the fact that the zinc won't actually take the paint well, so you have to use an etch primer first to give a key. Rather than just 'sticking' to the metal like a normal primer, it chemically etches a surface and sticks to that. It looks like you have done a top job, I would hate to see it all peel off again cos you used the wrong primer. Mark

Is the zinc phosphate primer an etch primer? I thought it was just zinc rich to provide a better amount of rust protection on steel rather than being an etching primer?

Have a look at what I did here : air intake on a 300TDI

The main thing would be to check for corrosion. The trouble spots on a D1 are the sills, the boot floor, the inner wings (and front footwells) and he rear body cross member. On a 5 Door, the base of the C Pillar tends to rust through from the inside too, particularly if you have sunroofs installed. They are all eminently repairable with some welding. Otherwise, all the usual mechanical stuff - wheel bearingss, suspension joints, steering joints etc.. hth Mark

Pete, don't worry, I'll not be offended if you take the offer of the one that actually fits! Mark

OK Pete, no problem. I'll go digging in the garage at the weekend, and we can sort something out. Cheers Mark

OK Pete, I'll stick your name on it badger me if it becomes critical... Ooh, I just thought though - I know which bumper you are going to stick it on, and I don't think it will fit without drilling the bumper - it is a 4 hole type, rather than a 2 hole one. turns out it's not holding anything together either, so I'll drag it out if you want it...

I have one attached to the husky in the garage, so they are certainly available. Currently it is holding the two ends of the winch together, but it will be available in a little while - I uess you need one sooner than that though...

The loom splis under the dash - can't say exactly where I am afraid, but the repeater feed comes through the inner wing around the level of the dash board, whereas the front indicators come trought he bulkhead on one of the multiway connectors on the passenger side, and then along each inner wing and out to the indicator units. I would guess they spilt somewhere around the passenger footwell, as that is where the big multiway connector is to g through the bulkhead. hth Mark

OK, I just shecked the maxxis site, and the creepies come in a 255/85-16, but that is still only 33.5 diameter. next size up is a 35x12.50... hmmm. I am startin to wonder whether 255.85 might be a better choice generally.

The creepies don't seem to come in anything less than a 12.50, which I still think is too wide for me. Are simex the only ones that come in a 35x10.50? If the the michelin xzl's are not the right sort of thing, although 900x16 tyres are the right sort of dimensions, as are the 255/100's... anything else that comes in those sort of sizes?

12.50 is a bit on the wide side for the weight of truck I am aiming at - really looking for a 10.50... I'll have a look at the creepies, and see what sizes are available. I was looking at the BFG site and also on craddocks to see what sizes were commonly available, and the 35x12.50's were definatly only available in a 15 rim. I was attempting to stick to 16" rims as that is what I have... It really depends on what I can get hold of. I am still open to suggestions though....