Mark

Why not make a sleeve up to fit the shaft to bring it up to a more common/readily available bearing?

@ steve!

linky to warn website D'oh, steve beat me to it...

Hmmm, that would explain why the holes on my chassis are nowhere near the middle of the 'lump' in some cases.... hey, it's a silly build - I have far more silly questions, but I'll bug you with those at the weekend....

This is a bit of an odd question, but stick with it... I have stolen one of LandyManLuke's pictures to illustrate a discovery/rangie bodymount: On the end of the mount is a lump of solid material with a hole drilled through. This is what then has the rubber mounted on top, and the bolt through.... But does the solid lump serve any significant purpose other than providing a flat surface for the mounting hardware to mount onto? Does the 1" or so of material stop the bolt moving laterally or something? I need to make up some new mounts for the new truck, and want to use standard rubbers, but I am not sure if what I have planned is strong enough... Cheers Mark

The washer tank is located in the recess behind the front bumper on the off side, between the bumper and the inner wing. There is a removable panel on the inner wing liner, but I don't know if you can get enough access through there to change a pump. Otherwise you will need to remove the front bumper to get to it properly. It's not a big deal - just lots of screws to undo, although there are 3 plastic rivits in the section above the lower grille. I couldn;t get these out without destroying them, so you may need to get some spares before starting the job.. hth Mark

I currently have one of these Clarke Folding Jobbie and I can't recommend it enough. Especially as it is Nige's.... Mark

Surely that depends on if you are planning to go and buy a brand spanky new one?

How about Nige's (as per usual) over-engineered solution... split rear door

Generally, I always disconnect the battery, alternator and ECU if there is one. As an aside, I removed your other post asking the same question. No need to double post Mark

simply bearings?

Anyone know if there is a manual override to get the rear door open on a 3 door softtop freelander? Or is there a way of taking the handle apart in such a way as to access either the mechanism or the wiring that I can stick 12V up it and get it to release? ta Mark

I can't see that you would have much of a problem either way given the wording above. So long as you have the evidence of the extent of the modification, whether you did it yourself, or paid someone to do it for you, you should be OK. Mark

Why not use an x-joint?

have you tried this chap on eBay

from Mo's original post... Mark

The roof bars on a 3 door and a 5 door are completely different. The picture shows a 5 door, and I suspect the front mounting is too far forward for the 3 door system...

I believe spectators are actively encouraged at all AWDC events - it would be good to see you there. Mark

Contrary to most of the replies above, I love them. We have a very late (pre facelift) '03 plate 1.8 3 door, and it is a really great little car. It's my wifes car, and she loves it. It is pretty under powered, but a commercial would have marginally less weight to cart around, but it is nice to drive, and practical. reliabilitywise we had a broken manifold, which I welded up but that is pretty much it over the last 2 years. Mark

What size tyres are you running? and which transfer box? If you do a search on speedo drive gears there are a number of gears available that can be swapped in and may give you a more correct reading. Alternatly, your speed transducer may be knackered, but that is usually indicated by the occasional loss of any speedo reading at all, or erratic readings. Mark

I am pretty sure it is a sealed system - ie the master and slave cylinder are fixed together and sealed for life, so bodging a different slave on seems unlikely... that is very special tho...

Is the 1/2" drive one the right size for std LR hub nuts? ie 52mm? the link above refers to DII and p38 hub nuts, which I thought were different for some reason... I might be tempted to get one if someone can confirm that it is the right bit of kit for the job? Cheers Mark

I have helper springs on my disco (OK it's coils, but the theory is the same) - The airsprings effectively increase the spring rate of the springs, so the effect would be similar to putting stiffer springs on - ie it will be harsher, as well as resisting roll more. An Anti roll Bar however, will arrest the roll of the vehicle without affecting spring rate or comfort. hth Mark

Orange and I are entered for the series, so we'll be there! Car no 4... Mark

As has been said - small allen key is required to undo the clips. Jarv - cocktail sticks Mark