Mark

There are some good suggestions on this recent thread hth Mark

Quick lesson then... 3 types of torque wrench that I know of.. 1) Clicky type, clicks at a preset torque - you know about these 2) Angular type: Where the torque is set as so many NM and then 60 degrees - like TDI head bolts for example. This is essentially a gauge used with a bar, and you just turn the bolt through the specified number of degrees using the guage. 3) Displacement/bar type wrench: Where the torque is specified as a figure, usually fairly low, in NM (or mine is in kgm for some reason). These are useful when you need to hold something at a specified torque while you tighten something else, as is the case with a timing belt - you need to hold the tensioner against the belt with the torque wrench at a certain displacement (identified by the needle) while you tighten up the bolt that holds the tensioner in place. I hope that helps... Mark

Mmmmmmmmmmmmm.......

oooh, I like the collection of C303's....

bear in mind that the legal limit for lamps on the road is 55W...

The control wiring doesn't need to be any more than .75 or 1mm^2 really. there is no real current being drawn. Many people run albrights and other contactors without covers over them, but it is a good idea to cover the terminals themselves - a rubber boot on each one is a good idea though to prevent accidental shorts. something like this: similarly use fully insulated crimps for the control cabling. hth Mark

Have a look at Jen's build in the members vehicles forum - particularly here. Having a 180 A machine myself I strongly suspect that more amps would be required to get this sort of penetration. I am not saying it's not possible with a 185 turned right up, and the wire speed kept down to a minimum, but more amps would certainly help... hth Mark

I have a version of this one, as linked to above... mine is a sealy branded one and was a bit cheaper than that a couple of years ago... about £125 from eBay I think It is a good, compact machine, especially for the price, but you get what you pay for - it doesn't have an automatic stop (mine does now) and it takes a bit of effort to get it set up right an cutting square (mine still dosn't). It will cut upto 100mm or so, which I rarely have need for more. I think I might be tempted to get a more expensive one, but for the money it is very good. As well as the auto stop, I also put castors on the stand rather than the rubber feet - it makes it very easy too stash in the garage, and wheel out as and when required. Cheers Mark

as above, mine is a jap import, and was no different to insuring a uk spec one - that was with Adrian Flux. might be worth phoning around...

Conversely, oursh has been losing less coolant - I am however planning to try changing the o-rings on the inlet manifold if the job is as easy as described above... I have been avoiding working on cars in favor of getting the workshop up and running, but mainly cos thats more interesting at the moment.... Mark

Err, meant to mention it is usually published on the last Thursday of the month..... slightly premature there nige... sorry.

PPC is available in tesco's in case anyone is having trouble finding it. It is an excellent magazine, and pretty much the only one I buy these days - far batter than any of the LR mags.

The seat position changed somewhere around 2000 ish - the earlier ones had lower seats than the later ones...

strangely I shall continue to watch this space... as I can't get youtube at work...

Might be different on A4 rather than A3, but you only get quattro with sport or s-line (which includes all the sport options too) and hence the 30mm suspension drop. my front splitter hits speed humps more often than not....

If the A4 TDI quattro is anything like the A3 tdi quattro sport then ground clearance could be a big issue. Mine grounds out quite easily....

err... is there a write up anywhere? or some pics? would be good to see.... Mark

As roger says - handbrake brakets, one for lhd, one for rhd. but as it's you jen, I'll call one ed and the other vince..... Mark

In a non competition scenario, if you can pull yourself through the problem, you can always carry on, rather than having to retreat. If you have 2 winches, and plan to fit them both, I would put the tds on the front, and the chinese on the back, to be upgraded later maybe...

must be time for some pix then simon....

It's a good thought mike, and am certainly considering grafting the tunnel from the disco into the fl shell. Not sure too much of the bulkhead would be required... The advantage of constructing a tunnel though is that you can build a frame and panel it in with removable panels so that getting to the bell housing bolts is infinitely easier than on a discovery... alternatly, it could be some find of sexy glassfibre construction.... Cheers Mark

I believe they are the same, yes.

primer is also not water proof, an needs a topcoat of some description to seal it. I am not entirely sure waxoyl counts as a topcoat as it does not bond with the primer...

Looks OK to me. 2.5HP is fine, a 9cfm is not huge, but OK for most stuff provided you don't want to run a rattle gun all day long. It's direct drive, so it's going to be noisy, but quieter drives are going to be more expensive. 50L is a good size tank, imho, so I would say that it is a pretty good choice. Mark

it may only be an irritation to you les, but I find it a real pain in the ar$e.... and the forum is slow too... Mark