Mark

Sam, When I finish doing the snorkel on the green one, I'll probably raise the breathers up too. I'll probably re-do the white one with stainless fittings too, should any happen to come my way... Mark

here's what I did on my white one - extended breathers

I used 6mm on mine Sam.

I'm locking this now. Al has his o-ring, and this seems to have degenerated to a flame war. Mark

That's nice and neat Dave, make sure you get some battery clamps on there though Cheers Mark

Ah, that would have been your D2 looking very wonky yesterday opposite us at newbury then? I did think it looked a bit lopsided! sorry, can't be of help with the spring decision tho Mark

Simonr and I were there mostly in a buying capacity, but we did sell a few bits too... I picked up some random bits - freelander roof panel bag, cross drilled transfer box input gear, rivnut tool and Si got some even randomer stuff! It was much closer to the sodburys of old, and one of my favourite events of the year. I hope it continues to grow and get better. Cheers Mark

Pinzgauer - VW Engined Versions.

Have a look in the options menu at the top right of the thread. It has probably been set to Outline or Linear+ for some reason. Switch it to Normal and all should be well...

I believe you need 2 points of rear vision - therefore 2 wing/door mirrors should be fine for the MoT.

Oh, and we need pictures!

Bish, Have you thought about painting it Red and white, to match the truck (Ie red below the roofline, white above)? Adrian's Cage is red on a Red truck, and blends in quite nicely with the rest of the car - you know it's there, but it's not completely in your Face. Both colours are available as Smoothrite, so whilst they might not be the most resilient, they can be touched up easily and cheaply. </2p> Mark

I have a feeling they use Superseal Connectors. They are available here. I think this is what I used when grafting 300 tdi bumper lights into my 200 loom...

build yourself a spark erosion machine al?

Have you checked the intercooler pipework? This has a habit of colllapsing over time, and if it allows boost pressure to be lost will cause performance issues. If it only leaks boost once warm it may cause the symptoms you are seeing.. It is worth squeezing a pipe with your hand when the engine is off. If it seems soft, and easily crushed it may need replacing - the pipe should be fairly still and resistant to you squeezing it... Just a thought. Mark

there were many many opportunities for that when they were filming it

Adrian (Orange) and I had a pretty good day out, although I have been feeling the after effects all day... Sorry to see Barry's (Holyzeus) little incident - you were gone by the time we got back to the car park, but I trust you got back ok? There was a good mixture of difficulties laid out, and the general feeling of the event was excellent. Thanks to everyone involved, marshals, officials and Paul and Lucy @ challenger! Cheers Mark

I have to admit that a 5kg reel lasts me ages. 15kg would go rusty before I got a chance to use it...

stainless can be a bit grabby as a material anyway, but is it worth checking your rivnut tool - it may be that you are slightly over compressing the rivnut, making it a tight thread? Might be worth running a tap down the rivnut before running the bolt into it? just a couple of thoughts... Mark

The new lockers come with a valve for the tyre as well, which has an airpath through to the tyre casement. Not really sure why you can't fit them opposite each other, it would seem the logical way to do it, but all the instructions are quite clear about not doing that. At some point I'll post some pictures up of the wheels we did... they aren't pretty, but I think they should work OK....

mild to stainless and stainless to stainless both with mild wire and CO2/argon mix (argo shield universal) with no problem. the joint is not stainless obviously... but it welds fine.

Naks, that looks kinda good. Is it a commercially available system, or one you have built yourself? Got any more close ups of the drawers and how the tank is included? Cheers Mark

It's got a series2 front end on a series 3 as well.

16A should be fine with 2.5mm and for 32A I would go up to 4mm. This is completely on the proviso that you will only be working with one socket at a time. If you were planning to run more than one thing off your 'extension lead' at close to current capacity then none of what I have said holds true! Personally, in my own space, I know I am going to be the only one working there (possibly one other) so the possibility of using more than one socket at a time is very low. Multiple sockets just allow you to leave machines plugged in and/or convienence for having the socket where you need it. I guess if you are planning to run a busniess out of this building then something somewhat more official would be required.... Mark

Al, why not daisy chain from one socket to the next one? There should be room in the terminals on the back of the socket to get the cables in. That way you can just use an off the shelf junction box where your box is (I think I used a 6-pole 30A rated one for a similar application). What size cable are you using? NB if any sparkies read this, I didn't do it, it wasn't me.... Mark