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Posts posted by rick
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Er
NO to all the above
The Rover V8 is an old design engine with its roots back in the 50s Buick era.
As such stay well away from semi and full synthetics. What is required is a QUALITY 20/50 mineral oil,
<snip>
Nige
geez Nige, that reasoning is totally flawed. So what if it's roots go back to the '50's ? They were built up till recently, with modern metallurgy, finishes, etc.
Please tell me what a 'synthetic' oil wont do (and also please define 'synthetic oil') and what a supposedly 'mineral' oil will ?
Personally I'd use an HDEO (mixed fleet diesel spec) either 5/10/15W-40, only as they will have better anti-wear characteristics than a lot of modern petrol spec oils for the cam and lifters ands don't sweat the base oil unless you are going for extended drains or need to run the engine in ultra low or extremely high temps where you need the benefits of a synthetic oil. ie. flow at cold temps, better retained viscosity at extremely high oil temps (better viscosity index) better oxidation protection, etc.
Yes, some engine designs tend to do better on different oils, but it's usually not the base oil that's the difference, it pretty much always comes down to the additive package.
just my 0.02c.
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First thing..... Measure the height of each spring and post here. Do you want the front higher than it is now?
<snip>
and bump stop measurements when parked on a level bit of concrete while you are at it.
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MTL is what you would want if you've got an R380.
I haven't tried MTL in the 90 yet myself, but I'm using MT90 in my Triumph gearboxes and it's bloody good.
I've used MTL and a brew of MTL/MT90 (2/3MTL-1/3MT90, straight MTL thinned out too much in our summers, the gearchange went to hell ) as well as a few other brews, and the change wasn't as nice as Castrol Syntrans (and it gets too thin on +35*C days too)
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you can run a full synthetic 75W-90 like Torco RTF or Motul Gear 300 in both without a problem.
Both these oils are dual rated GL-4/5 so are safe for yellow metals and have a robust EP package, and the Motul is thinner at 0*C than Castrol Syntrans 75W-85 that is commonly used in Australia to replace MTF94, as Gear 300 has a VI of 222.
FWIW, no gearbox rebuilder in Australia will honour warranty if an ATF is used in an R380. At a minimum, most specify a 75W-80 MTF fluid like VMX-80
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They are usefull, but some defenders (mainly 90s as the back ones are closer to the wheels) can run over the flaps when reversing off road and rip them off.
This generally happens when backing onto a bank or similar which pushes the flap close to the tyre.
They are not a requirement for the MOT as the bodywork provides the required spray supression.
I have always left them on, then when one falls or gets ripped off take the other one off to match.
Richard
the trick to stopping them being backed over is a length of very lightweight chain going from the bottom of the mudflap back up to the body or chassis. The mudflap can then flex back, but not forwards.
A lot of trucks and Semi's use this sytem here, too.
BTW, it's illegal in Oz not to have mudflaps fitted.
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People here (lots of gravel roads) often use an old length of heavy conveyor belt attached to the rear crossmember, which is something I have been thinking about. <snip>
Pretty common in these parts, too, particularly for caravaner's.
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A couple of different ideas here Ted.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatte...5-defender.html
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatte...very-point.html
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatte...t-mounting.html
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatte...ery-points.html
and plenty more on there if you do a search.
Oh, forgot to mention that L/R can supply JATE rings if you quote the part # Western gave above, and Troutbeck Sales also supply, and I'm sure there would be more.
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<snip>
In the meantime, if you want 255 M/Ts the current BFG M/T is your only choice.
can you get the Maxxis 762 Big Horn in the UK ?
It has a more open tread than the BFG MT in that size. (255/85/16) It's slightly wider in section than the BFG (approx 10.3") and a touch wider in tread.
I've measured one up on a 6.5"130 HD rim at 2650mm circumference @ 31psi which = 844mm OD. That is pretty close to the claimed diameter of 33.3".
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Don't know why you can't get JATE rings over there, their part number is RRC3237, your parts supplier should be able to get a set with that number.
never seen a set of JATE rings here, and just plugged that number into my favourite importers cattle dog and it didn't want to know about it ....
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Thanks for that
Well back to the drawing board!!!!
Don't write them off, they are very good dampers and may very well be exactly what you are after, but everything is a compromise.
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'Best' is always a curly term to me
Maybe 'best compromise' in a certain situation depending on a lot of other criteria that may or may not be applicable to you.
Anyway, B46-0243 are fronts and are the same as RRC and Disco I, so may be a touched underdamped for a 110 with HD springs, although they art listed as having heavy duty valving. B46-0253 are listed for the rear, and I reckon they are too soft in rebound for a 110 with HD springs, and miles too light for a 130.
Heasmans here in Oz now list a different pt. # for 130's, BE5-6540 for the front, and BE5 6529 for the rear.
Ring Heasmans/Sydney Shocks in Sydney, they are the importer and can advise, depending on your springs and what you do with the vehicle.
Bilstein are also shorter stroke than Koni, OME, TJM, EFS, etc. in an OE type damper, so will restrict your articulation slightly.
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Super Pro are the only polyurethane bush to use, IMO, and are superior in most chassis/suspension positions to OE.
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FWIW, I run 34-35psi all round in my 255/85 BFG's on my 130 that tares out at 2660kg in 'normal' running around trim.
I drop these to 26 psi on high speed gravel/dirt roads, and lower off road.
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My 2005 110 XS also doesn't have them, or a self-leveller at the rear. I was surprised since I thought one or the other was standard across County spec. At least now I can be confident that it wasn't the previous owner who got rid of them.
The parts for the roll bars seem to be pretty cheap, less than £100 for both axles.
here, no 110 with the HD spring pack has them fitted.
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<snip>and never fitted them to utility/ commercial models anyway
err, they do.
Every 130 from '94 on I've seen has them fitted here, front and rear.
Of course sometimes they magically disappear in the middle of the night.......
(and the front one has to come off if you use longer travel front shocks and springs otherwise the front driveshaft whacks it in droop)Oh, and they are always removed on the rear when fitting a larger rear main fuel tank. Everyone from ARB down does this here.
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thanks a lot for that Dave, appreciate it.
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Actually, the paper element in the Td5 air filter (ESR4238) is the same as fitted in the RR p38, even those with V8 engines (4.0 and 4.6).
I would say that what's good for a 4.6 engine should be good for a 2.5 or 2.8 engine.
Of course, if the filter gets blocked with dust, it won't be good even for a 50 cc engine, anf the plain element design will surely lead to its collapsing; but this is due to poor maintenance, rather than to inadequacy of filtering medium.
of course the diesels are turboed and move a hell of a lot more air than their swept displacement.
I think Land Rover forgot these vehicles are used off road and in countries where dirt roads predominate. Surface area is directly related to service life, the greater the area, the longer they survive in harsh/dusty conditions. Even a lot of our secondary roads here are dirt/gravel. I don't have to go too far off a main highway to hit a dirt road, often just turning off a highway you are on a dirt road.
I've heard of lots of TD5's here having the problem Jim describes.
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viscous fan spanners are pretty common and very cheap here. They are only pressed steel.
Not sure on a TD5, but on a Tdi they are a left hand thread and it only takes a 'whack' with the palm of you hand to undo, or a slight blow on the spanner with a hammer.
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... Must one change the filter on a td5 after every 10 000 kms? I did it every 2 000kms.. Is it waste of cash? Just do not take chances,,,,,
You do realise air filters filter more efficient the more dust they collect
(up to the point that pressure drop becomes too great and it impinges on performance)To give you an example, I had a Donaldson element tested out of a 300Tdi that was in for 20,000km (part of a filter test I supplied some filters for ) and it still had a lot of service life left. We could have re-fitted it without any worries.
This vehicle was driven on dirt roads every day.
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<snip>
I had never heard about those Donaldson or Nelson filters before. I will take a look on the web. Do you have any specific internet adress which may help to learn about these filters? What about K & N filters, are they good for off road dusty driving conditions?
I may end up travelling to South Africa and Canada later this year due to work so I may have the opportunity to buy it there.
Thanks!
Santiago
Donaldson, Fleetguard Cummins and Mann-Hummel are the biggest filter manufacturers in the world. The vast majority of heavy duty diesels use a filter from one of these manufacturers.
Whoever sells truck filters will stock one of these three brands.
Don't use a K&N for off road use. Leave them on the race cars
Their filtration levels leave something to be desired.
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Ah, but I do have an oil cooler - admittedly it's one of those TD5 things which is just a pipe that goes forward to the front of the engine and back again. Found it lying around in the workshop.
And my LT230 has an aluminium extended sump with fins on it - holds about an extra litre of oil.
...and the cooler is well worth fitting.
I have the t/stat block and some lines (possibly V8 ?), but I've been too lazy to fit it all up. It's amazing how quickly hard work/high temps and a limited oil capacity degrade premium fluids that are OK in truck transmissions for up to 400,000km.
Nearly all the premium synthetics are excellent stuff, and should extend the service life of any gearbox.
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i use DEXRON 2 or 3 ATF in my lt77 and r380 boxes .
its cheap and works just fine .
ive allways had gear crunching problems using other types of oil but with ATF i never have this trouble .
<snip>
Try using ATF in high ambients and high loads and the gear change goes to hell. Notchy, noisy and hard to engage gears.
I'll stick with a dedicated manual trans fluid, thanks.
BTW, I've used a 75W-85 down to -6°C and never had a problem changing gears, just got to use the right one
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Jim, as I mentioned on the tech thread, I feel that Castrol Syntrans gives a better gear change than MTL, and it resists thinning in high ambients better than MTL. (MTL is approx. 10.5 cSt @ 100°C, Syntrans 11.9 cSt)
I've used straight MTL, and various brews of MTL/MT90 to combat thinning in high temps, and IMO Syntrans wins out.
In your and our summers, ATF and MTF94 isn't enough, particularly 300Tdi's without oil coolers.
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I'd try and adapt the biggest Donaldson or Nelson (Cummins/Fleetguard) filter housing I could under there.
Oil Type You Guys Use?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Boy, get put of bed on the wrong side this morning ?
Mate, I'm not arguing on viscosity, although I always advocate if in doubt, stick to the viscosities recommended by the manufacturer, and if that's XW-40, so be it. I haven't said use NEO 0W-5, I'm calling you on.....
"The Rover V8 is an old design engine with its roots back in the 50s Buick era.
As such stay well away from semi and full synthetics. "
Saying something like that is just wrong.
I come back to what I asked originally.
Why ?
All the reasons you gave above relate to viscosity, not oil base type.
With your reasoning above, and staying with at least an SAE 50 at 100*C, 5W-50 Mobil 1, Castrol Edge 10W-60, Redline 15W-50 and 20W-50, Motul 300V 15W-50, etc would be fine. Any xW-50 engine oil has to fall between 16.3 centiStokes (cSt) and 21.9 cSt @ 100*C, regardless of base type.
If an oil is selected on the 'right' viscosity, and I'll take your word for it on the 20W-50 thing, but to my mind an xw-40 should be more than acceptable unless racing, is that the base blend mostly doesn't matter, it's the additive package that counts if the viscosity is right, then base type comes into play if extremely cold or high temps are to be experienced or oxidation and oil breakdown may become an issue, then by all means consider a semi or full synthetic.