rick
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Posts posted by rick
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Steven, check this thread http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defen...-new-110-a.html
Looks like the Safari one won't be available until June at the earliest, although it appears the TJM/Airtec one is available now.
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I think Ive had this conversation somewhere else
ARB Specify 90 for normal use , 140 for heavy off road use .
remember that the recommendation for a xW-140 lube is taking into consideration how hot a Nissan H233B, Ford 9", Dana 60 or other hypoid diff get when used hard (and often in high ambients). They generate much, much more heat (as does a Sals) than a spiral bevel Rover style diff.
IMO an xW-140 diff lube is overkill for a Rover diff and an xW-90 sufficient, but generally speaking the heavier the diff oil, the better the crown wheel and bearing protection, so it's up to you.
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I'm about to fit Maxxis 762 Bighorns in 255/85/16 (they are waiting for me at the tyre service) as I need tyres now. Last two sets have been BFG's in the same size, so it'll be interesting to see how they compare.
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I just have some heavy wall tube, 22mm tall as spacers below my rails.
Works well for me at 187cm and mostly legs. I need to have the seat at full rear adjustment, but tend to think that any further back I'd be too far from the steering wheel. Also tend to think that just raising the adjuster rails may give you more rearward adjustment, but have never bothered checking this was the case.
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I'd like one for the 300 as and when it appears Thanks
How about the one off the 2.8HS engine ?
That'd be as close as you could get without specifically mapping one for the 300tdi and it's available, just use the 2.8 exhaust manifold as well.
It's a Garrett GT2256V G 724652-0001E
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FWIW, the no hole gasket, ERR 7154 was introduced as a running production update by Land Rover in '97.
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Be a little careful as some can be quite corrosive. It shows up in oil analysis (from blow by) as increased lead and tin levels from the bearings
Even had this happen with BP's own cleaner DieselGo.
One brand that I know doesn't do this is Redline's RL2 and 85 Plus.
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I went 3" straight through all the way on my 130. (there should be a post on here way back)
The noise was atrocious. I used to race and I couldn't stand it. It also introduced a new muffler at 100km/h.... the cabin ! The resonance was shocking.
I fitted a resonator at the back, no power losses and it tamed the harmonics and noise a bit, but it's still as noisy as hell when you bury the right foot, so a hot dog style muffler will be fitted when I can afford to. I've put up with the noise for 2 years but it's just too damn draining on a trip.
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Tony, just out of curiosity, are any of the driven plates centre springs loose ?
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Guessing by previous posts, you bought a 1983 ex Military 110. These beasts have a Salisbury rear axle, which were made by Dana (44 or 66, dunno exactly which, but can be sourced from underneath your friendly neighbors's Jeep). Therefore parts are exchangable with Daan's. Adults on this forum will come along soon and add some more info.
There are threads on the forum on drum-to-disk conversions, which show exactly the type of axle that is under your truck.
The rear axle is a Salisbury 8HA, and was built under license by GKN from Dana. It is based on a Dana 60, but isn't the same. The axle tubes are lighter, the axles are smaller diameter and only 24 spline, the hardware is metric instead of SAE, and the pinion spline is different.
Contact Keith at Rovertracks http://www.rovertracks.com, or Great Basin Rovers in the US for heavy duty axles for Rovers.
Keith can also clue you up on how to convert the rear end to disc using commonly available in the US RRC bits.
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I agree with the boys above, much easier, yet at the end of the day all Land Rover do at the factory is chop a 110 chassis in the middle and add 27" to it.
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some full size J series Jeeps from the Sixties used (IIRC) a Rockwell front axle (2wd) that was merely a tube with kingpins on either end and the springover pads.
Used to own one, but it eventually ended up with a D44 in the front.
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Barry Ward, who worked for Mal at Maxi Drive making the axles has stated a business producing the identical axles and drive flanges using the same Hy-Tuff material with the same heat treatment and finish.
He is trading as Hi Tough Engineering.
Hi-Tough Engineering
U3/7 Ryecroft St
Carrara Qld 4211
Australia.
phone 61 (0)7 5530 4123
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i just bought the tool from franklin.... puller , edc setting pins, locking pins etc
easier to make than procure outside of Blighty
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Mog, I know you said you want a LC over a Patrol, but I'd take a Patrol over an LC any day.
Much beefier driveline, and if you can get one with the old school TD42T engine, (don't think they'v been sold in Europe for a few years, only just discontinued here) they are an absolutely bulletproof powerplant.
Spares here are available anywhere, including that '92 fuel filter you talked about. Actually, I have one on the shelf, too
TLC's early 1HZ engines were prone to doing cranks and the turbo version did turbo's, but should be well and truly sorted by now.
There were a spate of front diff and gearbox problems a couple of years ago too, but again should be sorted by now.
Same thing with the Patrol, they were doing 5th in the '00-01 GU's (Y61) which turned out to be an incorrectly machined shaft by an outside supplier. Nissan replaced gearboxes, even when out of warranty.
BTW, I'd grab a TLC 79 series Troop Carrier over an 80 Series SW for expedition stuff, although the Troopy does use a cart spring rear end.
Much more room/greater payload.
As for TLC and Nissan dominating in rural/remote areas of Australia, a lot of it comes down to lack of dealer support. If anyone's been through Alice Springs, you will be surprised to see how many Land Rover products are running around. This is because of the excellent back up by the local dealer.
This was something I noticed the first time I went to the Alice, and I didn't even own, nor had I considered one then.
Where I live it's all TLC 78/79 Series utes, Hi Luxes and 80/100/105's, with about half their number Patrol utes and wagons and Navarra utes. The Toyota dealer is 30km away, the Nissan one 60km, and the nearest Land Rover dealer is now 200km away, thanks to Land Rover Australia 'consolidating' and canning the entire country dealer network !
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I just made one using a 1/4 BSP x somethingorother brass reducing nipple, tapped it 6mm down the guts and turned the end down on a 6mm socket head cap screw to 5mm.
Screw the reducing bush in the wading plug hole, screw the bolt into the bush.
Locks positively and wont fall out.
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spline wear used to be a problem with free wheel hubs and constant 2wding. It wears the splines only one way, but this wouldn't be a problem with the Disco, so
what type of grease is being used Streaky ?
You really want something with 3-5% Moly in it, it's brilliant in sliding applications, with the best stuff i know of marketed by CAT. They have various grades, usually a Calcium Sulfonate base to resist water washout and salt (not a problem for you ) with some using di-ester (synthetic) oils for extreme temps.
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you can use 75W-90 if you like.
Roughly the same viscosity when hot, flows better when cool.
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yep, OE tension, and use copious amounts of grease, a good calcium sulphonate soap base would be ideal (marine grease
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'98 Def. 130 from some old notes.
front damper (base of pin to base of pin)
open. 546mm/21.5"
closed. 330mm/13.00"
rear damper (ctr of eye to base of pin)
open. 550mm/21.65"
closed. 350mm/13.77"
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cool, now I can make an airline adapter to hold the valves shut when I do a stem seal change. :thumbsup:
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there are seals available for rod ends and spherical bearings appropriately called 'Seals It' from the States.
http://www.sealsit.com/rodend.asp
The speedway boys here and in the US use them all the time. Greatly increases their life.
Way back in the dim dark distant past when I was heavily involved in Road Racing, AMPEP's line of rod ends were considered about the best, starting with their Black Line (phosphate finish, usually used on F/Ford, F3) Silverline then Goldline with the highest load rating and best liner.
I found the the Black Line better than Aurora's offerings, and probably than NMB's stuff too.
Used some Silverline but the Goldline stuff was way out of my budget and needs.
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<snip>
i also have no idea what the standard stiffness of patrol bushes is like vs oem land rover ones.
well, seeing as I have a Patrol and a Defender I can tell you that a Patrol bush is much larger in diameter, and so should allow more flex, but....a Patrol seems to have even less flex in the front end than a Landy.
Our Patrol is absolutely stock (SWMBO's vehicle) and the Landy has Haultech slotted bushes and 10" travel shocks, so not really a fair comparison. The problem with the slotted bushes is that they have a limited life. Mine are up for renewal now after about 18 months of not very hard use.
Another interesting point is that the GQ and GU Patrol front ends are virtual bolt ins to a Land Rover, although spring mounts, brake lines and Panhard mounts need modifying, the radius arms bolt right up and you end up with a much stronger CWP and a wider front track too.
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Me too. I've also used cellulose thinners etc.
me three.
If they were brake fluid soaked we'd use metho and then burn them, if oil, petrol, but in recent years used brake cleaner or thinners, set them alight then used the blow lamp. More effective than just setting them alight.
Suffix 'K' vs 'J' R380....
in International Forum
Posted
I'm hoping Mr Ashcroft chimes in here
I've read the description of the differences between the 'J' and 'L' on Ashcrofts site, but seeing as I have a 'K' 'box in my late '98 Tdi, what are the differences between it and the other two versions ?
Oh and Dave, I've posted this on AULRO too, so if you see this first, just ignore that one.
Cheers.