rick
-
Posts
642 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by rick
-
-
Yes it is dangerous. She is showing the early symptoms of an incurable, life changing mental disease. Take her to a Psychologist immediately.
Bill.
thank God my other half only drives the 'fender under sufferance.
but she is a Dressage rider......
.
......and she can't quite see the perverse pleasure I get when parking the 'dirty, filthy, beat up 'fender amongst the Merc's, BMW's and Lexus's (Lexii ?) at the big dressage shows....
-
Mike Gemini recommends re-greasing wheel bearings every 12 months as a preventative maintenance job.
I've got to admit, it makes sense and will make time to do this (another learning curve for me...) when I've got an opportunity to make mistakes do it.
if you convert your hubs to oil lubed using an RTC3511 seal you'll prevent water ingress, won't need to service regularly and the bearings will last a lot longer
-
another couple of tips. Replace the spigot bush, and before fitting soak in warm engine oil (it's sintered bronze) and don't grease it.
When replacing the rear main seal, don't oil it or the crank at all (the seal has a teflon coating) and don't use a gasket behind it, use RTV silicone.
Use a good quality moly fortified grease very sparingly on the splines and pivots.
-
bushes won't affect camber, loose/buggered wheel bearings, loose swivel bearings or something bent will, as specs are 0*.
Having said that, lots and lots of Landy's run around 1* negative camber (including mine) without any worries and everything tight.
-
can confirm that the inner helper springs/top hat will just fall out if longer shocks are used.
Better off using a single coil or maybe Polyairs with a standard 330lb/in main spring. At least OME, TJM, Ultimate Suspension and Lovell's here all do single coils to replace the twin coil set up.
-
and FWIW, the current preference out here is for the AP kit (and it's cheaper, too) as there have been too many problems with current Valeo kits (mainly shudder)
Along with the fork, the fork slipper pads and staples need replacing, as well as the plastic clip holding the clutch slave pushrod onto the fork.
-
The nominal cost of the flywheel bolts I followed instructions rather than see it again on it's way through the bellhousing/floor after it comes loose.
my understanding is that recommendation was for back when a locking plate was used under the bolt heads.
Different bolts and Loctite (something like 272, high temp, high strength) are used now. Will never come loose.
-
fella's, not trying to be smart, but how can removing the main muffler help performance on a 300Tdi when the stock muffler is a straight through perforated tube that is a bigger ID than the exhaust pipe ??
There would be absolutely no back pressure created at all by this.
FWIW, I have a 3" straight through system, dump opened out to 2.5" ID, 15* taper up to 3" to minimise flow separation, no main muffler, just a resonator at the rear and it does spool up better than stock and gears can be held much longer (revs out better) but the differences aren't startling.
I'll be fitting a centre muffler soon as the noise and drone is getting to me on a trip. Without the rear resonator the noise was absolutely painful.
-
'to hoy' something has also been common usage here too. My Grandmother always used it when I was a child. (and that was quite a while ago know, at least in years, not necessarily in maturity)
-
I know this is all the rage on the forums, but is it really worth it when this also happens. I'm not taking anything away from Les' work, just an observation that a local leading Land Rover
garage also subscribe to.
the good slipper pad. The other one had worn through and was in the bottom of the bellhousing and had been turfed. Total km was 220,000.
Everything else was toast when the fork punched through.
-
I suspect the NA is running OK. We are at 4000 feet here....... <snip>
well, that blows my suggestion out of the water...
-
Tubeless tyre on a tubeless rim is the best option IMHO.
agreed. Just find tubes so bloody unreliable. My cunning plan was to run Second Airs, just never got around to it....
-
Take the rim collar in your right hand, turn it so that the widest part is uppermost and then hoy it in the bin.
Les.
funny, that's exactly what I did, Les
just a thought, try and use a moly fortified grease when re-packing the joint, particularly a Calcium Sulfonate based one if available. Calcium Sulfonate grease is pretty much water proof and resists corrosion better than a lithium or aluminium base.
CAT use a 5% moly calcium sulfonate grease for chassis lube on the big gear.
-
you can turn up the fuel settings on an NA diesel just as easily as on a turbo one.
Ben/isuzurover has done this on his old 2a. I'd PM him as I think he ported the head too and he fitted extractors (headers) and a bigger exhaust.
-
<snip>
People here run tubeless tyres on tube type rims by fitting TR15 valve cores to the rims, and it is a really really dangerous idea because there is no inner hump to retain the tyre. Having said that nobody has been killed yet - but road speeds here are quite low.
two different tyre fitters suggested I run my tubed rims tubeless years ago as I kept welding tubes to tyres, then had a puncture at over 100km/h through a corner and the tyre rolled off the rim as the tube just collapses.
I've run this way for the last five years and it's much more reliable than running tubes.
The bead on a 130 rim is bloody wide, and the inner bead doesn't really hold the tyre on, the air pressure does.
-
piccy of the uni's
-
scuttlebutt is a common rail version of the hand grenade ZD30 3 litre, but no ones really sure.
Ok, hand grenade is probably a little harsh, but geez there were more than a few died spectacularly within the first few years of introduction. Apparently air flow meters are a problem too.
-
<snip> the only engine they offer with the patrols out here is a 4.8lt petrol so I don`t know of any of the issues associated with the diesels.
<snip>.
the TD42T is virtually indestructible. Very old school, indirect injected engine that just goes and goes.
Gutless stock, it comes alive fitting a new dump pipe and 3" exhaust for $660 (it really is strangled with the NA exhaust
) and a mild pump/boost tweak.Unfortunately there are less than 400 new ones left in Oz and they going fast. The poor old girl doesn't meet the current emission standards.
-
nice job Paul.
discowhite on AULRO found that his rear prop on his 90 was binding, so used a lengthened TD5 front shaft that uses bigger 1330 series (stronger/greater angularity) uni's than Tdi Defenders which only use 1300 series. http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?t...light=rear+prop
-
No, I need a compressor map for the precise model used in the 200TDI.
Ahh, here... http://www.dieselevante.it/turbochargers.a...dcodice=ETC8751
LANDROVER 90/110 1992 2.5D - Gemini TB024 465171-0002 ETC8751
Tough to find a map. Garrett made way too many models of turbos.....
Not sure how close a TBO24 is to anything else.
funny thing is, an old service manual i have lists it as a T25 (and the 300 as a T250-04) that's why I trotted out that brochure but that's as far as it identifies it, no other numbers as thta link you found lists it.
I was doing the same thing last night looking for the precise model used on the 2.8L HS and finally found it. There are soooo many versions of the GT22V for so many manufacturers it was staggering.
-
this help John..
-
I was just on about saws with some of the woodchucks up in VT. These guys actually mod their saws! Balanced cranks, tuned exhausts, ignition timing. That's so sad, it's actaully cool
Anyway, the Husky 346 and 350 are excellent bang for buck.
yep, there's an arborist forum I've visited a few times where the boys do all that 'hotting up' stuff, including changing port timing, etc, just like you'd do on a kart or bike 2 stroke.
-
the tdi had enough problems from running purely on Kero in Iraq that i do know!
I can't see a VE style fuel pump lasting very long on kero unless you load it up with lubricant.
I'd guess the internals would be blue (and seized) in a short space of time.
-
J
McCulloch Europe is owned by Electrolux but McCulloch USA is a different company altogether. Not all spares are available for USA products as they are not all supported in the UK.
McCulloch corp went belly up a number of years ago and the carcass was picked over with Electrolux buying the rights to the name fro the rest of the world, and a Taiwanese corporation picking up the rights for Nth America.
Neither company has anything to do with McCulloch of old.
) and a mild pump/boost tweak.
Diff Sealant
in International Forum
Posted
my personal preference is for one of Loctite's excellent flange sealants, 518 for rigid assemblies, (used on my Rock Crusher diff cover and stub axles) or their RTV Silicon type Blue Max if the surface isn't true