rick
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Posts posted by rick
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All the Oz delivery Defenders use a Hayman Reece style receiver hitch that sits under the existing crossmember with support arms running a fair way up along the inside of the chassis rails to distribute the load. Does reduce the departure angle slightly, but you still need a removable hitch with over a 100mm drop.
Never heard of anyone having a recovery problem bending the chassis with these. Land Rover Australia obviously didn't think the factory setup was up to scratch.
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forgot to add, check the pump timing as well.
Ideally you actually need a little advance when increasing the fueling, as all you are doing upping the fuel is increasing the injection duration.
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err, might. Didn't realise the angle of the dangle made a difference ??!!
Being a ute back might make it less prone ??
I was aiming just to get it tucked up out of the way so it wouldn't get squished.
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the resonator was worth it, I'm amazed how much it cut the noise, considering I'm not running a muffler......yet, and it to has minimal, very small diameter holes.
Unfortunately the middle part of exhaust manifold, turbo housing, wastegate and dump is cast as one piece.
The actual throat of the dump wasn't too bad, i think I only relieved it a few mm to match the ID of the 2.5" tube. IIRC, it pretty much matched the ID of the original exhaust, which was 60mm OD, maybe it was 57mm or so. I know it didn't take too much work to open it up.
The original exhaust was restrictive at the flange, there was a huge mig bead all the way around on the inside of the pipe, protruding about 4-6mm into the tube. I actually ground it out a few months before doing the whole exhaust thing, not that it made any (noticeable) difference, but it made me feel better.
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waaay too much fuel going through there Paul, something's not right, although I don't know how you were loaded, etc. Running around here fully loaded with work gear (600kg) and ladders on the roof I've never gotten worse than 11.8l/100km. Checking the odometer against the RTA 5km check it's reading under (showing less on the odo than the actual distance) by about 50m, so that's pretty good for calcs.
I have the pump wound up a fair bit, the difference is anywhere from 10-20km/h on most hills, depending on the gear and the hill. I actually crested the range here at 115km/h and 720* without a load on that Qld trip, the best in the past empty was 85 !
That's a good thought re bumping up the boost. It really does sound like it's lacking air. A pound or so is a fair bit more air.
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yep, stock I/C
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This was home built last winter from mandrel bends and 3" exhaust tube. The biggest mistake I made (other than attempting the job in the first place) was re-using the dump pipe flange off the original exhaust. Far too contaminated to weld properly it gave me a huge headache and I wasted the best part of a day making it work. Unfortunately I'm 120km away from an exhaust shop, 30km from the nearest village and SWMBO was away for several days and the tractor is currently residing at a friends place with our horses 20km away, so I was stranded until I had an exhaust system in place
I used a piece of 2.5" tube, made a 15* taper die out of a bit of steel I had and swaged the 2.5" tube up to 3" for the transition from the dump to the exhaust. The cast dump, part of the turbo housing had its throat opened out internally to match the exhaust.
The tube was de-oxidised with phosphoric acid before painting and the local hardware only had silverfrost high temp exhaust manifold paint, but even it can't cope with the heat cycles of a turbo, as can be seen with the surface rust. Aluminised tube copes OK, the only other long term alternative is an HPC or Jet Hot ceramic paint coating.
flange joints were used at the same spots as OE, as were the original rubber hanger rings. The new resonator sits nicely where the original one did. The whole system probably sits higher than the original system did.
User comments are on Paul's 200Tdi exhaust thread.
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One thing that I did years ago (and there was no immediate benefit from) was replacing the hose between the wing and the air box with an 80mm ID pipe and removing the restriction on the snorkel where it necks down to around 53mm ID.
I know the 200 is totally different in this area, but may be worth looking at ?
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hmmm, 100km/h is somewhere from 380-460* depending on breeze, road surface, gradient, etc.
Probe is in classic 300Tdi spot (EGR blanking port)
Steady 100km/h is 11-12psi, with a headwind or gentle grade (barely noticeable except with a boost gauge/EGT or on the push bike) this will jump to 13-14 psi. The roads around here are quite 'dead' in cycling terms, very coarse bitumen.
Climbing the range at Murrurundi, the climb is about 150-170m over 2 km and I'll hit 720* at the crest of the range, sometimes a bit before and so feather the throttle for last few hundred metres.
When I bumped up the fueling the boost jumped 1-1.5 psi over stock, so I'm running around 16.5psi, sometimes spiking to 17psi. Bit hard to judge as the gauge only goes to 15 !
I've fine tuned/backed off all my settings from where I had them originally for no (apparent) decrease in performance. There's still copious amount's of black smoke from takeoff and at gearchanges.
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as to fuelling, I'm pretty happy with where I've got it now. I can sail past 720* if I'm not careful on our long climbs at speed if it's a warm to hot day, yet on a quick trip up to Brisbane to see Dad at Easter I averaged 10.8l/100km travelling at pretty much 110km/h everywhere.
Not too shabby for a 130 with muddies and more bar area than a leagues club.
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there's a few blokes out here running RRC's and 'Fenders sans mufflers and I don't know how they can stand it, apart from the fact that a 4cyl diesel isn't the most evocative of sounds......
The worst part was the resonance. It actually had a muffler, it was the cabin..........
Anyway, back to this BAS
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Interesting, thats why the thought of blowing over a grand for a ready made system is a bit OTT.
If I can get someone out here to make me one locally at a decent price I think I`ll give it a go, to reduce the lag a wee bit would be a bonus.
a few of the blokes on the AULRO board, IIRC Hiline was one, reckon it was well worth it on their TD5's. He had his made up for a bit over $400. (mate's rates)
It cost me $300+ in materials, but at least I have enough 3" aluminised tube plus a couple of 3" mandrel bends left to do a complete system for the Patrol with only having to buy about 4 more bends and some flanges, oh, and a muffler (if I really want to subject myself to all that cutting and welding again........ )
To give you an idea on pricing, MTQ engine services have a deal on 3" mandrel bent TD42T Patrol systems, including a new cast 3" dump pipe of $660 which makes me reluctant to make a Patrol system as the dump pipe is $220 on it's own. Makes $1100 for a TD5 system look very exxy.
I built the exhaust before I tweaked the pump, so these comments reflect that. When I first did mine I was very underwhelmed, until I gave it a big rev in third and suddenly I could go past 80km/h in third and it kept accelerating !
With the OE system 80-85km/h was the maximum speed in third with the 255/85's, it just stopped accelerating and was very harsh. Now, if I have to, it can go to 95-100km/h (not that I do that too often)
Maximum EGT's also dropped over 20*C (below 600*-stock fueling) and the quicker spool up is very noticeable on the 130 with the big tyres.
Don't be tempted by those that say don't bother with a muffler as the turbo acts like one. They obviously have never run one without a muffler !
I ran mine for about a month without anything and the sound was just too much. I could be heard about 5km away at full noise, and the resonance at 100km/h was just too painful (obviously that would be different in a TD5) Mufflers and resonators are good ! (or Paul and I are just getting too old
) Currently only have a twelve inch resonator right at the back, but after a recent trip to Qld I think a muffler in the centre would be a good idea too. -
the Haultech 'holey' bushes we use on the front radius arms have the holes top and bottom for flex, just like in your piccy.
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Well, let's just say I've spent a lot less on things in the past for a lot bigger effect.
law of diminishing returns
the better spool up and better rev range for overtaking was worth it on mine in my opinion. I try not to think of the time involved building it
The stock 300Tdi system is a pretty good compromise, and much better than the OE Japanese systems.
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damn, another forum to bookmark......
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looks like you had a good day Paul.
Try your climb at 12psi and I bet your 200tdi will fly up the dunes.now there's a tip I'll have to remember
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actually, I think the story went it was made under licence by GKN for Rover.
CWP is interchangeable, carrier bolts are 12mm instead of 1/2" UNF, I think the pinion bearing is slightly different and the pinion spline count is different.
Oh, and a Sals uses the weak Rover axle diameter and spline count. Axle tube diameter/wall thickness might be a bit lighter too.
Was all said very tongue in cheek.
Yanks wouldn't go for 'em anyway as a Sals is too narrow for their tastes.
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1 1/16" is indeed the size, and 27mm is the same as near as dammit.
Go for the hex socket and you won't go wrong.
I use a wheel brace which is a hex socket and has never let me down yet.
There again as I have got older I have strayed from the path of riteousness - 6' scaffolding pole - and use a torque wrench when I put them on!!
yep, 1,1/16" = 26.9875mm, and FWIW if anyone is using Wolf/130HD wheels these require a tension of 120-130 lb/ft ! as per a TSB from about ten years back
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A salisbury is cheap enough to find, they don't damage easily (I'm impressed you bent one) and you can make a drum-braked one disc-braked using off-the-shelf parts (search this forum for how). Pay no more than £50 for a salisbury axle, usual rate is about £30 as most people can't be bothered tripping over them / moving them out of the way disc braked ones may be a tad more but eBay & the forum classifieds are your friends
not quite that cheap here.
at those prices, some enterprising soul over there should start buying them up and flogging them to the Yanks as lightweight Dana 60's
Freight could be a killer, 'though -
Why not get a set of new 27mm nuts (think they are 50p each from stealer) or I have a set for a fiver plust postage (im in Kent BTW), and nip over to a tyre company and ask if they can undo your nuts (so to speak), give them a couple of quid for their time bobs your uncle, fanny's your aunt and your new rubber can be put on in the comfort of your own home (er the tyres that is)...
friggin wheel nuts are worth a bomb here, (friend went to buy some once for a wheel carrier he was making, nearly had a heart attack) and FWIW I've been using an 1,1/16" socket for years as I don't know any better
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Hope this isn't classed as highjacking a thread as on other forums.... I was just about to post a similar question, can you mix axles..?
I have a 98 110 TD5 bent rear axle, it looks to have tubes pressed into the diff housing, the 2nd hand one I just bought has a moulded all in one casing, if the ratios are the same I guess it can be fitted...?
If it turns out to be wrong and it will fit yours maybe we can help each other out here...??
Regards Dave
further to Fridge's reply, so you've bent the axle housing and you want to swap another in ?
sounds like the one you have aquired is out of either a 90, Disco or RRC which is a Rover axle and no where near as strong as a Salisbury 8HA, which is what you would have in your 110. Also the pinion nose is shorter on the Rover housing, so the tail shaft will be too short to fit, although it will physically bolt in.
How bent is the housing ? Is it easier to straighten and repair it ?
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apologies if this link has been posted previously, just found it bloody interesting....
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thanks John. I'd heard that first was pretty useful, getting closer to the granny first I had in the T98 in a Jeep.
Tow Hitch on Xmember of New Defender
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
not that it really helps you, (basically any excuse fro a gratuitous piccy
) here's a Land Rover Australia genuine parts tow bar.
FWIW, most nearly all the aftermarket ones available here are almost identical.