Pacey

Found out a bit more of internet and the helpful people at Gigglepin, i have the 8000 single powered direction. Getting in the workshop to night to have looksee at it. Pulled some cable out of it on free spool and everything ran through smooth enough. So will get some power through it tonight and see what happens.

no pictures yet., I'll take some tomoz when its a light. Its a handbrake by the looks of it. like a drum with a shoe over the top with what looks like felt? in it.

Hi Guys I've just bought a warn winch, it looks like an 8074. It got a manual gear select cable and one for a drum brake type assembly on the side. On the top its a got the following stamped, series 8000 model 6503 then gives serial no.20999 It came of the back of a recovery truck where it worked fine. Has been sitting in a mates work shed for awhile now. What should I check before putting voltage through it?

The outer colour would be fine if the interior wasn't so garish. The two together is just over kill and means its only going to be bought by someone really rich for a tiddle take, a girly girly with daddies money or a ragingly overt gay type person.

Did my chassis last month. Cost less than £100, that was hiring an industrial level steam cleaner and several cans of waxoyl. Purely because of the level of mud i'd allowed to build up it took around 4hours to wash it. Then 1/1.30 hours to waxoyl it. So call it a Sunday and you'll get a job done much better than any company will do.

Its only three bolts that hold the plastic cowling in over the engine. They just unscrew no nut involved. Then you'll have plenty of space to put pie around the manifold. If you don't fancy doing that, then you might be able to balance one or two on the turbo. The other option, get a gas camping cooker and ttwo mess tines. Put the pies in the small one put the other one over the top and you've got an oven.

How much is the work going to cost you? I mean is it going to outweigh the cost of buying complete outside set from Mantec for instance? Then surely with them in hand rather than rivet you could just bolt them in to place?

Those Boab tanks look good pretty much what i was looking at in a marine shop today, lol. Space wise i just don't think there going to work, but certainly can't be ruled out. I've already have a mental map of where things work best in the load bay. Internal water tank/fridge, storage frame. Like i mentioned the ideal does point at something underneath the wagon. Marcus i take on board what you say, but having the tanks on the sides mean guards for them, which not only means extra weight but cost. But as i've said until someone with any of the products i've mentioned comes along i'll reserve judgement.

Guards are extra weight which is something else i'm trying to avoid.

From what i understand thats what the safari equip ones do, but i'm trying to steer away from it as (unless someone says other wise) its going to leave the tanks exposed to taking damage.

Hi Guys I'm slowly in the process of setting my 90 up for overland use. I've decide for extra fuel i really need to be looking at extra fuel tanks. I've seen some by front runner which sit in the rear arches, like the sound of that and some on safar-equip, but neither seem to have any decent photos or specs on the product. So question, has anyone got/used either of the above. Thanks

Snow, we down here in the channel islands have herd of its existence? Does it come flat pack?

A mate found out his worked just as well spread across the engine bay, obviously in low reception area's he gets issues but it works non the less. The reason he had to move it was because of his snorkel.

Thanks for all the comments. Kim those pictures are crazy and obviously prove the point i really am likely to hit anything.

Well i was thinking something like the Simex, manly because of stupidly tough side walls. But wasn't certain if they performed well on roads. I guess everything is going to be compromise.

Hi guys, I'm planning a big overland trip for 2010. Starting in May heading up though Europe to enter Russia on the Latvian boarder and then down to Mongolia, popping back out of Mongolia in to the eastern side of Russia to then catch ferry across to Japan. A lot of the first half of this trip will be tarmac, but from what I've been reading Mongolian tracks and the Gobi have a good habit of eating rubber. As well as this i'm not holding out much hope the roads in deepest darkest Russia are going to be good quality. So my question is, what tyres are going to suit overall purpose? Thanks,

Can certainly add to the satisfaction list for Mud UK and Devon4x4, living in the channel islands often presents high postage costs often exploited by certain companies. Both the above were and are more than willing every time I order to find the best postage solution and just generally offer great customer service. X-Eng is another but we all know that! had the pleasure of meeting Simon at the LRO show this summer very nice guy.

Snap-on allen key, give the bugger some beans and poof it comes off. The beauty is even if you round the key Snap-on give you another. win win!

Cool, i take it the husky 10 will fit in this bumper.

sweet thanks for the replys, yes its a husky winch. From what i read husky's are good. Cool

Hi guys, I just got this bumper of a mate, its obviously been used but metal wise is in perfect condition. The wagon is getting kitted up for overland use so tough was my thinking which this certainly seems be. Just a few questions on it tho, can someone clarify if it was designed for an air con fitted vehicle? I think it was. Also ideas what winch can go in or is it a case of a mate with gas axe getting fancy? I liked the look of the superwinch EP9, seemed to have good line speed to ampage draw.

This is what thought, but i'm a Telecom engineer not a mechanic lol

Hi guys, Just sorted a leek out on the return pipe from the turbo. whilst we had the air feed off my mate stuck his fingers in to check the turbo, he seems to think there is too much play on the blades. I felt and there is a little bit of movement. The engine has done 34000 and is 2001 build. Is this turbo going to fail? is it worth getting it overhauled and if so by who? thanks

The thought of two sets off rears had crossed my mind. Existing springs are coming to there end. I've unloaded all weight from my trip at the weekend and the back is still sagging. They be fecked! Don't really like the sound of airbags etc, like i said i'm looking for the KISS approach on this one. If someone could tell me a 1inch lift or 40mm as OME put it, is 100% not going to create any problems then for the sake of extra clearance id get it. But my main objective is to end up with a very bomb proof reliable suspension system to go away with, the thought of trying to learn the Mongolian or Mandarin for double cardon propshaft or two inch lift is quite a scary one. lol Ivan unfortunately i've had a disagreement with Frogs over postage in the past and wont use them now. But thats just a miner issue. Might try devon4x4.

Thought i'd just keep using this thread, keep the place tidy. I've been away and thought what i want out of my suspension. I've decided that as i'm gonna be using the 90 for overlanding standard ride hide or anything that wont cause problems further down the line is probably the best route to go. Based on my assumption there isn't a parts dept in the middle of Mongolia. From what i've read i cant go to far wrong with OME, but obviously weight decides what springs to get. The 90 is used for my business so normallys carries and an extra 50/70kg of load in the back and for over land a rough idea would be about 1700kg based on two people with extra water and fuel. So the question is: What rated spring should i be looking at. Are OME a good choice. How can i make a standard height suspension work to the best of its ability. IE is it worth relocation cones etc. Thanks.