honitonhobbit Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 I had the bronze valve guides anyway - I bought a head refurb kit from Elring (Direct) and went for the bronze valve guide option. Ian, I'm surprised you don't have someone up that part of the world who does this sort of stuff. Hamlyn's are good but they are not unique. I'd be tempted to see if ACR can recommend someone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted June 13, 2017 Author Share Posted June 13, 2017 Have contacted a place I've used before they do everything but porting and I'm waiting for a reply from another, have asked a mechanic and he doesn't know anywhere. I'm from walsall originally so think I'll have to go and see some friends over there see if they know anyone. Was trying to find someone round Stafford because in easier . Will have to do some more searching on the internet. cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted June 13, 2017 Author Share Posted June 13, 2017 Cheers Chicken Drumstick I get what your saying cost wise the turner engineering heads are pricey and if I needed a new head they'd be the way to go . The spare head I've got cost £68 off eBay it had 2 injectors stuck and 2 glow plugs stuck I got 1 injector and the glow plugs out but the other one is stuck solid and have left that for a specialist to remove so the spare needs work before it can ever be used . There are no signs of cracks but it needs pressure testing and skimming and the valves re seating and a damn good clean the ports are thick with carbon . So I might give the porting a go myself unless I can find somewhere to do it for around the same price as honitonhobbit got his done for which I think is reasonable . cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted June 13, 2017 Author Share Posted June 13, 2017 I found this reb78 if you fancy having a go yourself https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-port-and-polish-your-car-s-cylinder-heads-by-blake-griffin cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Years back when I was into tuning NAD diesels, I used a company in Stoke called Chase Engineering. They did some work on an XUD9 I was being silly with. They new there stuff and were pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 Have just heard back from them they do it, that's who I was waiting for a reply off. Have just asked for a rough price for the work . The guy who replyed mentioned about a fuel pin as well but said his mate new all about that but was on hols . So would imagine they've done quite a few defenders before . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chicken Drumstick Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Yeah it's about trading gains for cost vs any detriments caused by said mods. Well IMO. With a Tdi, I believe you can get about 90% of the performance gains, at very little cost. Being mostly the injector pump tuning and maybe fitting a bigger intercooler. All other mods have the potential to increase power/performance, be it ported heads, bigger turbo or vnc turbo, different cam, bigger displacement. But all will generally come at a much higher £/hp ratio (or £/ft-lb). Depending on your goals, swapping in a Td5 might actually cost hardly more, but give you far greater tuning ability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 Yes at the end of the day it all comes down to cost I know turners work is spot on but I would have had a go myself at that price, will have to see what chase come back with . Td5 nar I like the 200 tdi think when I get it tuned rite it will be sound will put some photos up over the next couple of days now she's nearly done. Changing the subject slightly but still on about engines , does this sound like a problem or is it just how a 200 tdi is and I'm being paranoid because I've just rebuilt her . She starts up from cold first turn of the key no hesitation what so ever small puff of grey/white smoke from exhaust then none , she's idling on about 800/900rpm and she runs fine but there's a slight vibration. The engine looks still but put your hand on it and you can feel it it's only noticeable because things not fastened solid vibrate like the rear view mirror accelerate and it stops . I drove my father in laws td5 for months and that didn't do it , I'm only asking because I would rather fix it now than let it become a bigger problem and as I say I might just be being paranoid. cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted June 15, 2017 Share Posted June 15, 2017 You're being paranoid Ian, in fact yours sounds as though it vibrates less than most 200s ! Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted June 15, 2017 Author Share Posted June 15, 2017 Thought I might be after rebuilding her every little noise has got me thinking what's that ? Got to stop it. cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 Personally I stay away for the boost pin idea. It's an Audi 2.5 profile. Dumping a shed load of fuel into a diesel will produce power and black smoke (not really power but feels like it). But its not good for the engine longevity and the power spread is messed up. With careful tweaking it's easy to get the same power gains but still have longevity - but that takes time and effort 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted June 16, 2017 Author Share Posted June 16, 2017 Yes I've read a few posts were people say they're not needed and the standard pin is fine if you adjust the pump properly . I've found a few guides on adjusting the fuel pump saying adjust everything gradually but you need to adjust each bit off the pump to get the best out of the tweaking . Got a few things to sort first air filter , exhaust and I think my turbo is leaking oil . It's not pouring out but there's oil under it on the drain pipe , there's a patch on the floor when parked up on that side of the engine but it only leaks after I've been on a run , moved it to other side of the yard yesterday it stood for 5 hours no leak had her in the garage last week for 4 days sorting an alarm issue no leak. It's stood for 2 1/2 years so think a seal might of gone and there is slight movement in the shaft of 2/3mm don't know if that's ok . Not sure what to do , send it off and get it rebuilt or buy a chra and fit it myself the later is the cheaper options I'd imagine don't know how easy that is. cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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