110 chassis dimensions

[Troll Hunter]

I'm towards the end of a total tear down of my 1991 110 CSW and today I propped the rear of the chassis on a wooden trestle to allow me to completely disconnect the rear axle.  I'm in my workshop which has a horizontally true concrete floor side to side, with a 1% slope from rear to front.  I noticed that the left side of the chassis was not resting on the trestle, being about 1.25" (~32mm) clear.  I used a 48" spirit level to check the front of the chassis at several locations, including the tops of the shock absorber mountings, and everything is fine there, but after correcting for small differences in the leg dimensions of the wooden trestle I'm left with a difference at the rear spring locations of 11/16" (~18mm).  Is this within the usual LR construction tolerance, or is it something I should do something about?  

I have owned the vehicle since 1995 and I know that since then it has never been in a shunt or suffered off-road.  I can't vouch for the first four years of its life, but there is no evidence of any structural damage on either the body or the chassis.  Prior to starting the tear down all body panels fitted - within the usual LR tolerances, and I never had any handling or steering problems, the steering always centred OK, and never pulled or wandered.  Since I will be rebuilding on the same chassis, after galvanising, what are the best locations to use to check that the chassis is true, probably diagonals?  Are there any other checks I should perform?

Many thanks in advance for any advice, and specially reassurances, which will be very gratefully received.

Mike

[Troll Hunter]

This may be related to my above problem.  I have just removed the chassis cross member that is below the gearbox, and it seems to me to be  very light.  I have just weighed it, and it is only 5.75kg  At the underside of the cross member the pipe is not seal welded to the end plates, perhaps deliberately.  The pipe wall appears to be 1.6-2.0 mm thick and the end plates are 4.5mm. thick.

If it is a non-original item then perhaps my vehicle did suffer damage before I bought it, and it had some "home design" repairs.  If anybody has a cross member not installed I would be very grateful if it could be weighed.  If it is significantly heavier than mine, perhaps I need to consider a beefier replacement.

Mike

[miketomcat]

That crossmember looks the same as the one that was on 45 that I destroyed in Russia. It was definitely the original so I'd say yours is an original. You normally need to Jack the chassis apart to get them in or out. 

The amount of twist in your chassis doesn't surprise me. To be honest I personally wouldn't worry unless it was in excess of an inch. I think there is a full set of dimensions in one of the manuals.

Mike

[Cchase]

This cross member looks the same as the one on my '95 110. Mine is a bit dented, especially at the open, bottom edge. Possibly this was left open for drainage.

In the picture below you can see the way that the front frame rails are tilted to keep water from pooling on the bumper...

My truck also tracks true so your frame may well be within 'tolerances'.

Cheers,

Colin

 

 

 

[cackshifter]

Set of measurements as MikeTC correctly observes in the 1996 workshop manual 'Chassis and Body' section. If you need a copy let me know.

Regards

Nigel

[Troll Hunter]

Many thanks for the reassurances regarding both the chassis dimensions and the provenance of the cross member.  My concerns have been set to rest.

Cackshifter, thank you for your kind offer.  I'd very much appreciate a copy of the 1996 w/s manual.  I have the 1987 onwards Parts Manual and the Ninety One Ten up to 1993 w/s manual, but having a transplanted 300Tdi, obviously post 1993, instead of the original V8, all information is potentially to be treasured.

Mike