Jocklandjohn Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 When I had a garage fit a galvy chassis 10 years ago I asked them to fit some electrical bits and bobs for me, including a Durite oil temp and oil pressure gauge. I got the stuff from VWP with the brass T piece I assumed was necessary to fit the two senders to the oil housing. My oil temp has been reading slightly high for ages and I recently got an infrared temp gun and confirmed the oil temp is actually ok so assumed the sender might be duff. New sender arrived and when I removed the old one it was pretty obvious they are not the same, which might account for the over temp readings. Tried to fit the new one and it wont go up the hole as there appears to be something blocking its passage - assume its the end of the oil pressure sender - although I've not pulled it all apart to have a good look inside. Anyone shed light on what the sender that was fitted might be, and if it might simply be the end of the pressure sender connector thats stopping the new temp sender from going in. Or am I missing something here and using the wrong T piece? Picture - old sender above, new one below. Other pic shows the oil pressure sender on left and the hole at bottom for the temp sender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 The old sender is the right type, the shiney new one looks more like a coolant temp sender. I have both oil pressure & oil temp senders on my 200Tdi, recentlyhad to replace the adaptor for the pressure gauge & warning light sendrs bought this one from ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-DISCOVERY-300TDI-200TDI-OIL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-ADAPTOR-MLR-IE-/122691674339?hash=item1c90fe60e3:g:NK0AAOSwGotWqgyM with this oil pressure gauge sender Lucas part number SOB505 = to LR part PRC4043. & warning light sender PRC8387 My previous set up, all genuine LR parts & hand modified parts book page. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted September 9, 2017 Author Share Posted September 9, 2017 (edited) Thank you for all that Ralph. I found your previous posts with links to the diagram (which I remember seeing ages ago) but the links were broken. Odd - the sender is the correct part from Durite Number 52395 Here Is that top sender in my picture the one that operates the oil light on the dash? Am I correct to assume that if I want an oil temp gauge and an oil pressure gauge and still have the original dash oil pressure light operate I need to have three separate connections. If so I've no idea what the oil temp gauge is currently connected to! I'll need to pull off some wires and see what stops working I think. It might be that the new oil temp gauge wiring is piggybacked to the old one and thats why the reading is off. Edited September 9, 2017 by Jocklandjohn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 Yes to 3 seperate senders. Oil press gauge is the big one dash red oil light is the top one in your post oil temp is this one PRC4372 = http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/89702/0/oil_temperature_sender_diesel_defender this fits at the forward end of the oil filter head at a angle, you should see a large blanking plug, this comes off & the sender above is screwed in place. I'll add wiring colour & diagram & abetter photo of the location in a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 the dash/main loom has the wiring already in it, just needs extending to the sender & gauges from the engine bay side big plug & the one behind the instrument pack. oil pressure wire is Light green/White oil temperature is Light green/Green. shown in the defender wiring diagrams for the 2,5 diesel models. these were a option on the older engines, but they also fit the 200tdi engines as it's the same filter head. photo's added as promised. [yellow rod used a a pointer] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted September 9, 2017 Author Share Posted September 9, 2017 58 minutes ago, western said: the dash/main loom has the wiring already in it, just needs extending to the sender & gauges from the engine bay side big plug & the one behind the instrument pack. oil pressure wire is Light green/White oil temperature is Light green/Green. shown in the defender wiring diagrams for the 2,5 diesel models. these were a option on the older engines, but they also fit the 200tdi engines as it's the same filter head. photo's added as promised. [yellow rod used a a pointer] Ralph - EXCELLENT! Found it, wiring was done in black wire and carefully concealed - had no idea it was there on that side. Thank you very much! Think I have a handle on it now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 wiring from each of my senders goes in the same route as rest of the engine loom to bulkhead connectors, any problems just shout & I'll try to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted September 9, 2017 Author Share Posted September 9, 2017 Thanks Ralph - ok this afternoon I swapped out the senders, and new one is showing over-temp exactly the same as the old one. For reference - I've got the original water temp gauge on dash, and two additional more-accurate-with-numbers ones - one before and one after the radiator - so plenty redundancy and enough to say with certainty what the engine/coolant temp is. Just had a good run up a few long hills and sitting at 55mph. Original water temp gauge on dash is sitting bang on in the middle, the two additional ones show in the range of 80 - 90 deg C and varying as thermostat opens - as you'd expect. Oil temp climbed up to an indicated 100 and then under load on the long hill went up to 112 and stayed there until after the hill when it slowly crept back down again to just over 100. I stopped and put the infrared thermometer on engine block - 88 deg. On the two fittings where the additional water temp senders are - after radiator 75 deg and before radiator 89 degrees. The oil filter assembly in several places showed 79 degrees up to 90 degrees. So it seems that all the temps are in the correct range, so it might be the gauge thats awry. I'll need to pull it out and check its earth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 What make oil temp gauge is it ? my oil temp gauge is a VDO Vision 52mm signalled with the matching VDO sender, I replaced the genuine LR one because the elect connection top hat snapped off, could be yours is just a sender/gauge mismatch, mine usually runs around 75 to 85 degree during normal driving. oil filter head oil cooler stat has 74 degree stamped on it, so 79 to 90 sounds about right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted September 9, 2017 Author Share Posted September 9, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, western said: What make oil temp gauge is it ? my oil temp gauge is a VDO Vision 52mm signalled with the matching VDO sender, I replaced the genuine LR one because the elect connection top hat snapped off, could be yours is just a sender/gauge mismatch, mine usually runs around 75 to 85 degree during normal driving. oil filter head oil cooler stat has 74 degree stamped on it, so 79 to 90 sounds about right Gauge is a Durite, which seemed to be well recommended. Are the senders interchangeable or matched to specific brand gauges? I ask because having just paid £25 for a new sender I'd be loathe to have to shell out for another different sender if the gauge itself turns out to be duff and needs replacing. Original sender came with the gauge as a complete set. Replacement sender is the same number apparently correct for the gauge according to VWP & Durite. Edited September 9, 2017 by Jocklandjohn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 As the gauge & sender came as a set then it should work ok, how is the gauge secured in your dash ? if it's a U type clamp make sure it doesn't touch the gauges electrical connections. senders are usually matched to the gauge they operate, a LR gauge might work ok with a durite sender or vice versa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 I found when I fitted the Durite temp gauge to the 110 that it is reading a bit too high. The use of an IR Gun (I know they're not perfect but do get close to the truth) confirmed that 85 C on the gauge was actually between 72 and 85 when measuring the head, thermostat housing and the sender area. As I have it directly on 12 volts it might be that it needs a voltage stabilizer to work correctly as these drop the volts a bit for the instruments to work on... . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted September 10, 2017 Author Share Posted September 10, 2017 11 hours ago, western said: As the gauge & sender came as a set then it should work ok, how is the gauge secured in your dash ? if it's a U type clamp make sure it doesn't touch the gauges electrical connections. senders are usually matched to the gauge they operate, a LR gauge might work ok with a durite sender or vice versa. Its connected with the U clamp on rear. I'll check the wiring and see if there's anything obvious and have a poke at the earth connection. 11 hours ago, Arjan said: I found when I fitted the Durite temp gauge to the 110 that it is reading a bit too high. The use of an IR Gun (I know they're not perfect but do get close to the truth) confirmed that 85 C on the gauge was actually between 72 and 85 when measuring the head, thermostat housing and the sender area. As I have it directly on 12 volts it might be that it needs a voltage stabilizer to work correctly as these drop the volts a bit for the instruments to work on... . HI Arjan - thats interesting. What's a voltage stabiliser and where would one be installed? In line before the gauge? I'm getting the impression it might be easier to simply install a VDO or similar gauge & sender that works! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted September 10, 2017 Share Posted September 10, 2017 (edited) Bonjour ! I'm not sure they need one, or the Defenders have one for that as I do not have standard wiring in the vehicles, but Series have a voltage stabalizer ( part number 148876 ) behind the dash that's wired into the gauges so they work on the same voltage all the time, regardless of what is on / being used / etc. IIRC they drop to 7-8 volts and the gauges work on that. It is not uncommon for gauges to change their reading when consumers are switched on like headlights, heaters etc.. Personally, if you know what the gauge shows and what it means when you measure the engine, I'd keep what you have and save some money.. Edited September 10, 2017 by Arjan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 10, 2017 Share Posted September 10, 2017 Voltage stabiliser isn't fitted to 90/110, gauges run on 12v all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted September 10, 2017 Author Share Posted September 10, 2017 2 hours ago, Arjan said: Bonjour ! I'm not sure they need one, or the Defenders have one for that as I do not have standard wiring in the vehicles, but Series have a voltage stabalizer ( part number 148876 ) behind the dash that's wired into the gauges so they work on the same voltage all the time, regardless of what is on / being used / etc. IIRC they drop to 7-8 volts and the gauges work on that. It is not uncommon for gauges to change their reading when consumers are switched on like headlights, heaters etc.. Personally, if you know what the gauge shows and what it means when you measure the engine, I'd keep what you have and save some money.. 1 hour ago, western said: Voltage stabiliser isn't fitted to 90/110, gauges run on 12v all the time. Thanks both. I was just thinking about opening the gauge and seeing if I can rotate the scale so it reads 'correct'! Will report back....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 10, 2017 Share Posted September 10, 2017 I have pulled a needle off a gauge before, in order to make it read correctly... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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