Landy7 Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 (edited) Yes, I know, EAS 😋 I bought myself a P38 - 4.0 V8 Bosch - 1999. She has been sitting still for 4-5 years and I'm bringing her back to life cause she is too pretty to throw away! I have a Land Rover 110 next to it but no P38 experience. First time I towed it here and tested her, the EAS took a few minutes but after that it raised to normal and even the extended ride height worked! After that I parked her in the garage, disconnected battery etc, and the car putted itself on the lowest ride height, not sure why, could be my fault.. Anyhow, after replacing brake discs, pads, steering damper, track rod, drag link, .. I started the engine again after a month and waited until it would lift itself up but after a few minutes, still no go.. The EAS compressor was so hot that it took a break. After a few tries (letting the compressor cool off for 30min) it lifted up to the normal ride height! I drove around the block a little and tested the extended ride height but no go .. only the back would raise, not the front. I've parked it yesterday evening and I've just checked today and she is still on the normal ride height, so didn't drop overnight. A few questions.. - I don't think rebuilding the EAS valve block would help since it does not drop (leaks?) ? - Could it be the reservoir that's leaking and thus needing the compressor to work overtime ? - The seal in the compressor could be worn out thus not producing a lot of pressure? I'm thinking of disconnecting the output on the compressor and test the pressure.. Can I do that by hand? Put my finger on the output? Or do I need to buy some sort of pressure gauge? I think it would be a good idea to find the reservoir and look for leaks with some soapy water when the car is turned and the compressor is doing his thing. Some other ideas? 🙂 Edited July 23, 2018 by Koen110 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 Could be the diaphragm valve leaking, then hardly any air enters the system. Or the compressor is worn out and needs a rebuild. Or both. You can disconnect the top line from the dryer while the compressor is working and feel for pressure there. Where in Belgium are you at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 What puzzles me is you say the EAS lowered after you disconnected the battery. That can only be because of leaks in the bags or valve block. The other symptoms point to a lack of pressure. Probably a combination of worn compressor and leaky valves/connections (to the tank for example). A good way to test without stressing the compressor is to use a shop compressor to put air into the tank via the top line from the dryer, as Elbekko says. We both own P38s, so very happy to help out. Great cars, but it helps to get to know them to work out issues with EAS etc. Filip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted July 26, 2018 Share Posted July 26, 2018 Have a browse on here, https://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/ lots of good stuff about the EAS, and check out the thread about the timer relay, if ever it is parked out of level it has a sort of 'settle' mode/effect where it drops down. change out the 5pin relay for a 4 pin one eliminates that and is super quick to try. Instinctively I doubt the airsprings, older 'Dunlop' springs ( 4 or 5 years) leak, almost without exception, but sometimes not at standstill because the crease concerned is folded in. At that age, the springs won't last very long when you do start driving it so if you wan't to stay on air best advice is to swop them sooner rather than later and save the pump (if its not too late).. Next thing to bear in mind is that the diaphragm (as above) is key to sealing the valve block and is hugely dependant on the quality of the dessicant in the dryer to protect it. Stripping the valve block and fitting new seals isn't that bad once you get your head round it: BUT, don't bother unless you fit a new dryer at the the same time, old dessicant decays to powder and clogs the works up really well (I know this from experience), also I can't recommend packets of refill dessicant as the grain size is much smaller than the original and you can guess what can happen. Also recommend this software if you get the control system in a bind, it works... http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53&Itemid=56 HTSH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.