ThreeSheds Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 Remember with wasted spark on spark is +ve and one is -ve, it can cause issues with timing lights. As long as it shows 10deg solid at idle in limp-home you don't really ever need your timing light again. Absolutely! With my strobe, it will only work properly on on of the two HT leads that come from each coil. So for example when I want to check the timing using No1 (and who doesn't? ), I actually connect my strobe to it's partner: No6. With regard to limp home testing - when I first tried mine I too was impressed by the smoothness of the idle, but bearing in mind the roughness of the previous dizzy advance I wasn't surprised that there was an improvement. The old distributor's advance at tickover was bouncing anywhere within a 15deg range! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evo828 Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 just a picture of the temporary "installation" - I was really surprised that it worked on the first try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patch1 Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 Morning all, Dose anyone know what the gap between the trigger wheel and the VR pick up should be. Thanks Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evo828 Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 Morning all,Dose anyone know what the gap between the trigger wheel and the VR pick up should be. Thanks Mark I would say max 1mm. Some have been running with more gap - but then the signal might get tricky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patch1 Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 just a picture of the temporary "installation" - I was really surprised that it worked on the first try Looks like a perfect and permanent installation to me.... What are you considering changing for the final install? Maybe a blob of Bluetac to hold the wires still when travelling along? In truth, you faired better than me. Mine fired up second attempt after playing with a few wires. (Thanks for the advice Nige) I then had a discussion with Fridge as it was running rough. Undid a lot of his good work only to eventually prove his work was perfik and mine was suspect... Now runs on all 8 but need my radiator back in to get it up to temp and start logging. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 Thought I would post a heads-up on the small confusion I had when copying FFs circuit diagram and the picture of the mounted coil packs. The circuit is fine as it does not attempt to tell you which bank of the coil packs you are going to use and much depends on where you mount them. EDIS fires the coil packs A-B-C-D-A-B-C-D for our correct firing order. On the EDIS unit the pins driving the coils are 8 = A 9 = B 11 = C 12 = D If you use the now common mounting arrangement seen below you need to wire as follows: EDIS..Coil....Coil .........Pack...Pin 8.........A.......3 9.........B.......1 11.......C.......3 12.......D.......1 With it wired wrong it does not want to start, backfires impressively and the timing appears to be 90 degrees out. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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