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Posted (edited)

Hi all.

Have just joined the forum after getting my first freelander. A 2004 1.8. Yes i know the K series comes in for a lot of stick, but i think its a cracking little unit. There are plenty of other engines out there from other manufacturers (such as the M43 unit from BMW) that are a lot worse and problematic.

 

I got the car from dealer up in Birmingham, and it came with a history, and came with new clutch, slave cylinder, timing belt and service, and a years MOT. A few shamless Pics from the dealers site.

 

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And the only pic ive taken of it so far.

 

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Got a little list of jobs to do and have already aquired a few parts and indeed, started on the jobs. Dare say ill have quite a few questions as i go. Loving the forum by the way peeps.

Edited by selkent1

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Upon getting the car, (youll notice this from the pics), the drivers side wing mirror was damaged, but a replacement was supplied by the seller. That took 2 mins to do.

 

Pad and discs look like they havent long been replaced, and the underside is very clean. Had a look with a very bright light and can find any tinworn anywhere.

 

So far i ascertained the jobs i need to do are:

 

Diff mounts need replacing.

Camshaft oil seals need replacing

Issues with the VCU hangers, they are knackered. Might even be the originals.

Fron passenger door lock will lock with the remote and key but will not unlock. Ive heard this is not unusual!

Needs a new drivers seat. The remaining seats are in really good condition but looks as if someone has been eating the drivers seat!

Audio. The factory unit doesnt work properly and ill put my own headunit in it anyway.

The silver(ish) parts of the interior trim need repainting, will have to research the colour for this!

The coloured part of the steering wheel has all worn off. Think the previous owner must have spent the entire time palming it everywhere! A replacement would suffice but im not sure if this could be repaired! Anyone else had any experiance of this?

 

Phil

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Pic of that drivers seat and the colour worn off of the wheel.

 

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I had thought maybe, leather paint for the steering wheel but the layer that has worn away seems quite thick. Looks like maybe a repalcement wheel.

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Posted (edited)

Luckily its a 2004 car and so its has the in-line thermostat mod already done by land Rover, so i doubt ill be having any head gasket probs. I always thought it was unfair regarding the amount of stick the K series took. I thinks its a brilliant little engine. Its prob the only four pot you can by whereby if you need new cylinder liners, you can simply buy them off of the shelf and replace them yourself. No special mechining of the block required!

I also forgot to mention that i need a new reverse light switch as my reverse lights and parking sensors kind of work when they want to.

Edited by selkent1

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Nice, I'm a fan of the FL1 and my 1800 was a cracking little motor. They're far better than most give them credit for.

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One thing I would recommend having just done it on the good lady's clio is polish the headlights! Kit wasn't expensive and it's made a hell of a difference to the way it looks and also the light performance.

I got this one from amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B015OOVIRA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I had some credit from a late order which knocked it down another £5 or so but i'd happily buy it again at full price. One word of warning though.... cover the rest of the car/engine bay in either dust sheets you don't mind getting wet, or plastic.... the car was covered in little white spots afterwards from the water/plastic mix coming off :lol: 

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Cheers for the info. I was initially going to replace the headlights, thinking that those restoration kits were a bit of a gimmick, but after seeing the results a colleague at work achieved using a similar kit, i will order one. Thanks for the link. I dont use Amazon, but found the same kit on ebay for around 20 quid! Will add that to my list of jobs!

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T-cut or rubbing compound works very well on plastic headlamps, then put a bit of wax over the top to protect afterwards.

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Posted (edited)

Have started building up a little parts box. So far have got the replacement reverse light switch so i can get my lights and parking sensors back.

20190328-201028.jpg

 

And the camshaft oil seals.

20190429-091509.jpg

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After some inspection and removing the timing belt cover it seems that only the right side (as you look at it facing the car) camshaft seals are leaking. Making a bit of a mess!

20190221-074516.jpg

 

And have also got a replacement passenger front door lock/actuator.  Will start looking at transmission parts next.

Edited by selkent1

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Posted (edited)

While im on the subject of the transmission, i think that my VCU is toast and needs replacing. I know the VCU is a bit of a hot (for want of a better word) topic among freelander circles but my symptoms suggest its not moving as much as it should.

 

When going around corners i hear a fast paced knocking/banging coming from what sounds like the middle of the car just behind the front seats. The speed of the knocking increases along with the speed of the car. Some people have suggested this could be the diff mounts, which im going to replace anyway as a matter of maintenance, but the paperwork i got with the car suggests they were done less than a couple of years ago. Anyone else have any other suggestions. It was there when i bought the car as the seller told me about it, but over the past few weeks it has been getting steadily worse. Some has suggested to me to drop the prop off until the VCU/Hangers/diff mounts etc, can be replaced.

Edited by selkent1

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11 hours ago, selkent1 said:

Cheers for the info. I was initially going to replace the headlights, thinking that those restoration kits were a bit of a gimmick, but after seeing the results a colleague at work achieved using a similar kit, i will order one. Thanks for the link. I dont use Amazon, but found the same kit on ebay for around 20 quid! Will add that to my list of jobs!

The same autoglym one? I looked at a few different ones and not all have as many of the pads etc in. Although I only used one of each grade as I kept it wet. 

086A3A9E-40B6-4A58-8155-7CBA279E1BE3.thumb.jpeg.ff3cbf9c22c39c0e087543bef06e8017.jpeg

79DF3809-F2F7-47DE-B88E-5061607BD104.thumb.jpeg.082d66a2cb742343f648f3f3a0856e84.jpeg

The last picture doesn’t show how shiny the near side headlight is, it’s the same as the other. 

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2 hours ago, selkent1 said:

While im on the subject of the transmission, i think that my VCU is toast and needs replacing...

Yes you can drop the whole propshaft & VCU as one assembly and drive it FWD, although it does stress the engine/gearbox mounts more. If it's never had a VCU or it feels like the brakes are dragging when turning sharply at low speed (EG parallel parking) it's likely seized. Bell engineering sell recon units, if you're lazy get them to fit new support bearings before sending it out, saves a job.

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12 hours ago, landroversforever said:

The same autoglym one? I looked at a few different ones and not all have as many of the pads etc in. Although I only used one of each grade as I kept it wet. 

086A3A9E-40B6-4A58-8155-7CBA279E1BE3.thumb.jpeg.ff3cbf9c22c39c0e087543bef06e8017.jpeg

79DF3809-F2F7-47DE-B88E-5061607BD104.thumb.jpeg.082d66a2cb742343f648f3f3a0856e84.jpeg

The last picture doesn’t show how shiny the near side headlight is, it’s the same as the other. 

Thats looks good as new. Im looking forward to mine turning up even more now to see the results. Again, Thanks for the tip. How did we manage before these forums existed!

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10 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Yes you can drop the whole propshaft & VCU as one assembly and drive it FWD, although it does stress the engine/gearbox mounts more. If it's never had a VCU or it feels like the brakes are dragging when turning sharply at low speed (EG parallel parking) it's likely seized. Bell engineering sell recon units, if you're lazy get them to fit new support bearings before sending it out, saves a job.

I was thinking about bell engineering. Today i dropped the whole prop off and there is a big improvement in steering at low speeds and parking, like you mention. Looked them up and they seem to be well established and will let me have the unit a bit cheaper if i send them my old one. I seperated the prop sections from the VCU and tried moving the unit with a breaker bar at each end and it would not move at all, so will get on with a few other jobs for now like replacing the diff mounts, a new coat of fresh underseal, while i wait to get a recon from Bell.

Im not going to risk one off of ebay as you dont really know what youve got until its on the car!!!

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I wouldn't bother thinking about anything other than new or recon VCU, and trying to turn them by hand or whatnot is a non-starter, even a good one you wouldn't be able to tell.

When I was doing big miles I just budgeted for a recon unit from Bell every ~70k or so and that did me fine.

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16 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:

I wouldn't bother thinking about anything other than new or recon VCU, and trying to turn them by hand or whatnot is a non-starter, even a good one you wouldn't be able to tell.

When I was doing big miles I just budgeted for a recon unit from Bell every ~70k or so and that did me fine.

Bell engineering it is then.

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Posted (edited)

Replaced the diff mounts today. I gather from information i have got from different sources that the front mount tends to wear out more quickly than the rest. So i found  a seller who had a set with a poly in the front bearing, and regular rubber in the rears. So i got these..

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Fitting then was a bit fiddly, as is any job that you havent done before. But a bit of swearing and a few grazed knuckles later, they were fitted. Prob made a lot easier that i had already removed the prop. I mounted the prop to the diff once i had fitted the mounts just to help center it, but removed again afterwards.

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While i was under there i looked at the IRD. I read somewhere that you need to check for any play on the flange where the prop attaches. There is no play at all, so i am presuming my IRD escaped without any damage from the VCU.

Edited by selkent1

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Posted (edited)

Also discovered that the front passenger window regulator was on its way out. The motor is fine but the cable is rusted and on the verge of snapping and making some very ugly noises when trying to move. I took the motor off to make sure it wasnt that, and all is well. So ordered this..

 

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I noticed there was a problem when i replaced the door lock. Thatll be the next job on my list. Will probably loose some skin doing this one!!!!!!!

Edited by selkent1

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More questions. While im mentioning the IRD, anyone know what fluids i need for the gearbox (1.8) and the IRD and diff. I must get a copy of the workshop manual!

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Rear diff is EP90 I think, IRD I can't remember but main gearbox is MTF94.

The RAVE manuals are (or were) pinned in the top of the technical archive, or you can download them for free online - @henk is busy indexing them onto my webserver, at the moment it looks like there's some in the FL1 section: http://fuddymuckers.co.uk/rtfm/Freelander/F1/

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On 6/2/2019 at 12:08 PM, FridgeFreezer said:

Rear diff is EP90 I think, IRD I can't remember but main gearbox is MTF94.

The RAVE manuals are (or were) pinned in the top of the technical archive, or you can download them for free online - @henk is busy indexing them onto my webserver, at the moment it looks like there's some in the FL1 section: http://fuddymuckers.co.uk/rtfm/Freelander/F1/

Cheers for the info. Ordered some of that. And looked into the rave manual, will start downloading that and printing it off when i can.

Only job done today is to replace the left front window regulator. Nice, easy job. Yep, it was a patent part but fitted and when in perfectly, only replaced the regulator though, not the motor, as that seemed and is fine.

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