ThreePointFive Posted August 26, 2019 Share Posted August 26, 2019 Let's play another game of "is it F'ed?". When replacing the clutch slave cylinder, the rod and plastic bracket came out together. Seems a common issue, so I did my research and found a way to refit without taking the gearbox off. However, this is my first time seeing the clutch fork as someone else bolted the engine and gearbox in place for me. It doesn't seem right. Under light pressure, the fork will retract into the bellhousing - surely it's meant to return to the front position? That made it difficult to ensure the rod engages with the slave cylinder. It's also very wobbly. Videos for a slightly more objective description, apologies that they are so large. 20190826_142822_002.mp4 20190826_142822_003.mp4 If this is gearbox out, I am going to be extremely annoyed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 26, 2019 Share Posted August 26, 2019 The fork is only held in position by the slave cylinder, there’s no other spring controlling it. It should be loose otherwise it would be constantly pushing on the clutch and the release bearing would die rather quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted August 27, 2019 Share Posted August 27, 2019 The rod should stick out just a bit past the slave cylinder flange when pushed in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted August 28, 2019 Author Share Posted August 28, 2019 So perhaps this is where my lack of experience with this comes in, but surely it would have some resistance? I cannot stress just how little effort it takes to press it back into the housing, I would have thought the clutch itself pushes back.... I am working on the assumption fork pressed back at the slave cylinder end = clutch depressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 28, 2019 Share Posted August 28, 2019 You won’t actuate the clutch by hand, it takes a lot of force. All you’re doing when moving the fork/rod around is moving the bearing about on the sleeve it rides on. Push the rod all the way in and that’s the bearing up against the clutch plate fingers - in order to actually ‘depress’ the clutch you’d have to push the rod very hard past this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted August 28, 2019 Author Share Posted August 28, 2019 That is what I hoped, thanks a lot - from the angle I'm at it looks like there isn't much room left for it to travel once I depress it, but I'm not in a rush to drop the box so I think I can make an informed decision on this one. Thanks for the responses and education (your site is also massively useful for my build at the moment). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted August 29, 2019 Share Posted August 29, 2019 Relating to the original problem of the clutch slave push rod becoming detached from clutch fork because the carp plastic clip has broken, LOF clutchs do wire clips now for the clutch push rod and for the fork to release bearing. They work very well and are much more secure. No connection other than as a satisfied customer. Look here Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted August 29, 2019 Share Posted August 29, 2019 (edited) When it is pushed in fully, where EXACTLY does the end of the push rod sit? That is the important bit. Edited August 29, 2019 by Red90 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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