200tdi air intake

[western]

This ESR2623 is the correct 300TDi air filter element https://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Genuine-Air-Filter-Element---ESR2623-ESR2623.html

NTC6660 is the 200Tdi variant https://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Genuine-Air-Filter-Element---NTC6660-NTC6660.html#SID=215

[Sigi_H]

Response to the older question: I rode a Ducati 900SS Bevel Drive with open inlets on the carburetors. Pistons lasted about 50.000 km, not longer. Only for eyample. If you want your Tdi to last longer, use a real airfilter but not a K&N. If you cannot get an original one, use a Mann-Hummel standard airbox like ie Pico-E. There are a lot, quite similar to the LR one.

As far as I know, the 200Tdi airbox has an intlet in the middle. Therefore the fins are necessary, to give the air a spin. At the 300Tdi there are no fins, because the inlet is on the side and the airbox itself works like a cyclone. I think there is only need to remove fins, it they point to the wrong direction. Otherwise they will assist the cyclone.

[Snagger]

21 hours ago, PumaPete said:

I have a filter which is for a 200 Tdi that I ordered by mistake. It has the plastic bit with the fins on. I actually need one for a 300 Tdi. Are they the same, or should I remove some or all of the clastic bit?

I have no idea if it’ll fit the 300 housing correctly or if there would be a spin direction problem as Sigi says.  Worth looking closely.

 

I scavenged the plastic shroud and fins from an old filter of this type and fit it to the K&N (same dimensions) in my 109 as the oil breather feeds straight into the intake of the canister.  I use a K&N reluctantly because the paper type would clog too quickly and could break up, but the plastic shroud protects it from direct blasting  intake air and heavy contamination in that spot, while the fins keep the rest of the filter from being contaminated badly - the bulk of the mist collects on the canister sides.