Sigi_H

If you have a Salisury axle add the pan.

If it is dismantled anyway I'd always use new bearings. Normally new bearings don't need new shimming.

painted shift forks 😁 you need a glass cover for the lever

Cleaning works perfect in the dishwasher. Send your wife shopping when doing so 😃

I just mentioned what he wrote. The LT77 is not stronger for sure, but depending on the tires or on the ground it can be much better as we believe, which he confirmed The tyres ultimately determine the transmission load. If you drive carriage wheels, every gearbox has an easy life. It's different with wide tyres, which never spin. Only then does the entire torque of the engine have to be transmitted. I believe the LT77 is a good and proofen concept. It was constructed in the 30s of last century, when tyres was a lot smaller. Cooling it with my idea is not a really necessary improvement, but a nice project for hot areas, that can´t harm.

In a German LR forum a rallye driver said, he killed several R380 but never a LT77. No idea why, but even though the R380 is improved, the LT77 seems not bad. The only idea I had is to build additional cooling and filtering via an el. pump sucking from the drain plug, pressing through a oilfilter and back in the filler, controlled by an el. thermal switch. Result is more and cleaner oil, without changing anything in the box.

I agree absolutely. It is not that important which oil (often even which viscosity) it is, as long as it is changed often enough. You can even use olive oil, if you change it hourly 🤣 Gearbox I change once in ca 3 years. In my opinion the magnetic material on drain plugs commes from the synchro rings. They are conical clutches, which synchronise gears with shafts. The ring itsself is non magnetic, but the oposite cone is. This creates magnetic "dust" which can be collected mostly by magnets. It is self explaining, that not all can be collected, but will be completely rinsed with a oil change

They will change immediately, when they go down a hill and the brake fails due to water in the fluid ... if they still have a chance ...

Selfmade and side opening rules.

Interesting. Must be a two tube damper then. One tube wouldnt work anymore, because the piston will get stuck then. Original is one tube I think. But normally twu tube types are pressurized, which means it will come back after compression, unless the pressure has gone.

Thats the right behaviour of oil shocks, because pressure stage and traction stage (right translation?) have to be different. If the compression damping is too hard, it gives the feeling that the whole suspension is too hard, although the rebound damping may be too soft. So it's better to have a very soft compression damping, especially on gravel.

I had this on a BMW Motorbike. The reason are vibrations. It is possible to solder, but don't expect to much. It will break again, as long as it vibrates.

I saw it too and my first idea was 3D Print. Should be easy to print inside plates and outside boxes, which are fitting in exactly. To seal them is easy too. They can have any feedthrough you like. For those who are not into that so much, they can take aluminium plates in- and outside. Aluminium is ok, because aluminium and zinc harmonise very well. With a good seal between, they don´t have contakt anyway.

In my understanding a change of brake fluid has to be done each 3 years anyway. This is really a matter of safety

As I didn´t paint my galv chassis, I think about leaving a new bulkhead unpainted as well. It looks good.

This thread inspired me to write an article about the Hi-Lift 😊 https://www-explorermagazin-de.translate.goog/bauberi/farmlift24.htm?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=wapp

Thanks a lot

What a wonderful documentation! But unfortunately I missed the brand of the bulkhead. Which brand is it?

I'd prepare for bleeding all, but start with the front in this case. After a careful test ride you will see if the entire procedure has to be done. Grüsse wohin auch immer

One more addendum: Why does the O-ring leak? In my opinion, it is due to the aluminium alloy used for the housing. It is too soft and therefore the intermediate shaft can press into the bore. This overstrains the O-ring, which can no longer compensate for the increased tolerance. The familiar steel bushing helps because it distributes the forces that are introduced into the aluminium housing over a larger area in the aluminium. The rep of reb78 helps because additional "filler" is inserted. However, it cannot compensate for the soft housing in the long term. I already had a stamp about 0.3mm deep. This also means a severe misalignment of the intermediate shaft with corresponding stress on the bearings. Only a bushing is a decent repair. I made two bushings so far and both work fine. One since 300.000 km

Bushrepair often works pretty good.

Any oil-problem has to be cleaned first before anybody will be able to make recomendations. The wind while driving will make any leak apear bigger as it really is, because the oil will be sprayed around. Most of the gearbox leaks look exactly like this, so allmost everybody can say 😉

Sorry, but before any recomendation this has to be cleaned and then checked localy where oil comes from. Cleaning is best with high pressure cleaner and then remove remaining oil with brake cleaner. A testdrive can show more then. This can be quite a lot, because the wind while driving will spray the oil everywhere. This sounds a little bit to me like if someone is posting a pic of his Land Rover and " It makes a strange noise when driving, can you help me?" Yes we can, but only after a thousand more questions 😇 Cleaning first can avoid 500 of them and save a lot of needless work.

Sorry for all the ot. Maybe all the bike stuff can be separated?

I just wrote an article about the IoM TT of 1986 including some Bevel adventures. https://www-explorermagazin-de.translate.goog/unitking/islman86.htm?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=wapp