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Courtesy light switch


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There isn't anything on 1987 door, certainly wasn't on my 1989 110's doors, the light switches were never fitted. But the wiring is in the loom which goes down the far left & right rear corner of engine bay to the door pillar & the the switches can be fitted. then you need a plate similar to that shown above to operate the switches.

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Great picture much appreciated 

 

ralph, you are correct, I don’t have anything like the pic on my doors. 
I did purchase new doors a few years ago, well not new but not far off. So I’m guessing my originals had the tabs but these ones definitely don’t. Looks like I need to knock something up 

 

cheers chaps 

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My doors are genuine and came from an early vehicle of they type with “push button” doors.  There is no reason to think yours aren’t genuine or original.

I bonded a piece of aluminium extruded angle to the bottom of the cotter pin bracket to mimic the later bracket (as shown in the red door).  You have to drill a hole for the cotter pin in the angle piece, and PU adhesive is quite sufficient to h9ld it in place (it has lasted twenty years on mine so far).

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Cracking picture Ralph thanks
 

14 minutes ago, Snagger said:

My doors are genuine and came from an early vehicle of they type with “push button” doors.  There is no reason to think yours aren’t genuine or original.

I bonded a piece of aluminium extruded angle to the bottom of the cotter pin bracket to mimic the later bracket (as shown in the red door).  You have to drill a hole for the cotter pin in the angle piece, and PU adhesive is quite sufficient to h9ld it in place (it has lasted twenty years on mine so far).

don’t suppose you have pics ?

 Thanks chaps 

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I don’t, but it looks very similar to the image of the red painted door.  The bottom part of the bracket just has a double thickness, one half the original bracket flange and the other half the horizontal part of the piece of angle, with the adhesive binding the faces together.   I was already missing the cotter pins, so had to use a nut and bolt - you may have to do so too if the thickness of the angle underneath the existing bracket hides the split pin hole in the cotter pin.

Don’t over-think it!

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2 minutes ago, Chambo110 said:

No problem. Thanks for your time. Job for weekend I think 

👍

 

Just edited the above for a bit more information.  I can’t get any photos to help more as I’m on another continent from the car.  Sorry.

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Seems straight forward enough. 
my switches look to be higher than Ralph’s. Pretty sure from memory that the pin goes straight through the gap under the pin between the door card. 
Ralphs folded piece looks too low for mine. But I get what you’re saying ref the rest. Split pins are missing anyway so I’ll probably just but n bolt it 

 

cheers 

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