TD5 On Board Computer - Bin Owl

[PolarBlair]

On 9/29/2023 at 8:28 AM, simonr said:

In 2016, I built this: https://openbuilds.com/builds/rigid-delta.3983/ which was intended to print as fast as possible.  Steel chassis, very rigid.  The Bed was a ground flat slab of Aluminium.  It could move the print head and drive the extruder extremely fast.  At relatively ordinary speeds, the quality was very good, compared to an Ultimaker (which at the time was about the best).  But as the speed increased, the quality declined.

What I found (and measured) were resonances in the frame and extrusion system which caused ringing on the corners and extrusion artifacts.  Making the frame that rigid was in some ways the problem - Steel is elastic and the structure had very little damping.  After a lot of experimentation, my conclusion was that the only way to achieve really fast printing was some kind of digital signal processing applied to both the stepper drivers and extruder to avoid the resonances.

Using my (Bridgeport) Mill as a printer worked just because of the sheer mass of it (and having servo drives).

IMHO, the DSP is the 'secret sauce' in Bambu Labs printers.  Done right, you can have a more flexible structure and just map the resonance - exactly what Bambu does!

In the end, it was a decent printer, but no faster than the Ultimaker for the same quality.

That's a fair point and chances are given the size and relative "floppiness" of the ender 5+ frame I doubt I'll ever get it to silly speeds. But even a slight improvement would be worth it. Especially given the print volume, what would already be a long print can take aaaaages.

I'm definitely not anticipating it to perform like a large scale voron. I imagine just converting to direct drive would already yield a noticeable improvement. I think it needs a bit of an overhaul anyway. It's got a Capricorn Bowden tube but pushing it much faster than 40mm/s ruins the infill with underextrusion. I've tried increasing flow but no joy. I've been using some fairly cheap Overture filament recently so that could have something to do with the drop in performance.

It's a fair ways down the priority list anyway. Number 3 child arrived a few weeks back so I usually only get to play after the kids have gone to bed.

[Arjan]

Thank You !

[Anderzander]

On 11/24/2021 at 10:56 PM, PolarBlair said:

This part was childs play. The unit only requires 3 wires. 12V, Ground and the ECU K-Line. This is pin 7 on the OBD2 port (pink wire)

All I did was tin a 5A rated wire, which made it the right diameter and rigid enough to just put it in the end of the plug. I intend to print a cover cap to go over the end of the port to clamp the wire in place. I could splice this in, but the OBD2 connector doesnt have enough slack on the cables, so I would have to remove the center console. Not worth the effort. This way it’s also easily removeable if it has to go in to a garage.

I don’t quite follow your wiring - did you move the obd port up behind the dash? Or just put your wire in and run that up into the dash ? 

I was wondering if it was possible to interrupt it at the header between the ECU(s) and the port.  Mine doesn’t have ABS - so I’m thinking there should be an empty a lot in that header.

[Anderzander]

kindly shared by Mo a few years ago.

[PolarBlair]

On 10/6/2023 at 1:01 PM, Anderzander said:

I don’t quite follow your wiring - did you move the obd port up behind the dash? Or just put your wire in and run that up into the dash ? 

I was wondering if it was possible to interrupt it at the header between the ECU(s) and the port.  Mine doesn’t have ABS - so I’m thinking there should be an empty a lot in that header.

I just ran a wire down to the obd port and pushed it into the slot for pin 7. I've since had the centre console out so just spliced it to the wire behind the port. Then it just needs ignition live and ground. Lots of choices there. I think I used a fuse jumper.

[Mo Murphy]

Simon's design and printing is awesome ❤️ much luv in da hood

Mo