Safari snorkle - will this one do?

[Peaklander]

Some time ago I picked-up a Safari snorkel intending to fit it at some point, before I actually need it. I think it is a TD5 model "that can also fit the 300TDi". I would want it to be fully waterproof and so need to be sure that I am watertight across to the airbox, where the connection is 78mm as far as I know.

The snorkel I have doesn't have a spigot, onto which a secure pipe connection could be made. I think it is intended to be sealed to the wing on the outside and then another watertight seal is made on the inside. I did see a kit somewhere for lots of ££ that sorts-out that connection to the inside face of the intake. I get the feeling that it might be difficult to do this properly and reliably.

The diagram below, taken from the website of lrparts.net here, shows a 300TDi specific part which appears to have a "pipe-ready" spigot. Should I really get that?

If that one is better, who uses the type I have? Maybe when water isn't the enemy and it's purely to be used as a raised air intake?

I'd welcome any advice. Thanks

 

[Anderzander]

I bought one and stashed it away the same as you - except I bought the one with the spigot for exactly the reasons you’ve described … I wasn’t confident it would seal against my wing.

I think the pipework would still need to be excellent though - and the drain in the airbox would need looking at.  I’ve also come to wonder how much of my electrics would have died by the time the water would have got through a poor seal against the wing? 

[Peaklander]

I might have a go at bonding a pipe to a plate and securing that to the 'rectangular' opening. I bought it for not much money but it still seems a waste to chuck it and pay £200 for the spigot version. Then I need an improved pipe across to the airbox and fit some sort of valve to that drain too.

Yes I wonder too about water getting in lower down first but it would pull into the air intake so readily, compared to smaller gaps in the battery box or door bottoms. I have a solar controller in the battery box though. Maybe that needs to be re-sited.

[muddy]

Make a plate and spigot and seal that to the snorkel itself, you can even test it in the bath then!

 

I have had a one piece pipe to the airbox and sealed drain hole and not had any issues in ten years with water in the filter housing. I know it is/was sealed as you could stall the engine with a plastic bag over the top. If your not going to seal it properly unless its 100% for cosmetics why bother fitting it in the first place as your never going to trust it.

[Mo Murphy]

I have a Mantec RAI fitted but not sealed as the novelty of playing submarines has long since worn off. Mine's to keep the air intake out of the dust on the dusty mountain tracks on our summer trips. The difference in the amount of dust collected on the air filter is huge.

How sealed its got to be is governed by your intended usage.

Mo

[Peaklander]

@Mo Murphy thanks and yes, that's where I am in the deliberations. I said a couple of years ago that I would get the vehicle into up to "visit Iceland" condition. (crossing the highlands, not doing the circle). That is as much an arbitrary target that I set in a drive to get it right up to standard in all departments rather than a serious planned trip. Sleeping up in the lifting roof is beautiful in sultry nights but not so nice when its cild and blowing a gale.

It's not far off that standard now but when I watched a few Iceland videos it seems that river crossings are to be expected and hence the questions start about water ingress (everywhere). The intake is such a gaping hole in the side that when I saw this second-hand snorkel going for the right price, I bought it without realising about the 'missing' spigot. I could seal it with neoprene strip, which I have and that might do.

You are correct though. Am I and Mrs P actually going to get wet and do those river crossings on our unaccompanied trips? Perhaps a dust-proof connection is enough.