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Peaklander

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Peaklander

  1. Wow, what a start to the day I've had reading the method and looking at those photos. Amazing work!
  2. My wife’s uncle is over there this morning. He was with 47 Commando RM pushing through in advance behind the enemy line to Port en Bessin. We will remember them.
  3. Looking at my 97MY diagram isn't any help as the SR wire is for Transmission Oil temperature warning and WP is for fuel pump. So I can safely say that they aren't going to be the same on your 200TDi loom. I do have an old 300TDi drawing but that is stored as a picture so it can't be so easily searched.
  4. I can’t see my electrical drawing as away from home today. I would normally do a search of the pdf for the wire colours and see what they do that way. My 300TDi has a heated rear screen on the third relay from right. The colour for that is white black I think. There’s only five relays there in total though: Starter/ Headlamps / HRW / wipe and flash. So that’s not very helpful.
  5. Dave, the relay bases from Vehicle Wiring Products that are for standard 40A switching relays do interlock with the yellow bases that are down there at the fusebox. They also have a mounting tab with hole and I used this too at one end of that row. (I fitted three additional ones I think). The headlamp upgrade that I did used 70A relays. These have big blades ~9mm I think rather than the ~6mm and I think the relays and bases are physically bigger. They do interlock but I don't know if they will fit down at the fuses. I think this is the base I used. Mine are in the engine bay and appear to be holding up well (over four years now), with dumdum and other sealing.
  6. @mmgemini posted a how-to-do-it thread in here years ago I'm sure. This relay-switches the loads. I copied it exactly and shorted out the dim/dip relay. It suggests fuses and relays for dip and main under the bonnet on the side of the n/s wing.
  7. The part number I quoted is for the front of the vehicle. The rear light harness is AMR4990. That has a plug to connect with the front and then a wire to the rear door switch and the connections to the lamp unit in the roof. The route is along the roof edge on right side front to back.
  8. Last year I bought a couple from this guy https://www.balljointboots.co.uk
  9. Ah yes a fair point. If they are not fitted then they can't be leaking!
  10. Same for me. I thought it was the seams, chasing leaks there, only to discover it was the alpine window seals.
  11. Me too, in fact I was on it the other day and was happy to see it had been updated fairly recently.
  12. There is another connection away from the volumetric and that is the connection that is red. As you can see the wires are the same colour! The red connector is not for the lights. That is the other one.
  13. Fair enough but the colours in the red connector correspond to the correct wires for the ultrasonic sensor on the 97MY Defender diagrams that I have. I don't know why you think it is a translucent connector but if it's in the location I suggest and the wire colours match the circuit then I think I'm correct. Have you got the parts book? Mine is an early one and the harnesses are show.
  14. I don't have a TD5, mine is a 300TDi but I'm sure the wire colours are the same as mine although the connector reference numbers are not. P purple / PW purple white / PU purple blue / B black / BN black brown / SW slate white First of all, the red connector (B BN WB) is to connect an ultrasonic sensor in the roof headlining. On my vehicle (RHD) it is above the driver's head. You don't need to fit this for the alarm or lights to work. The interior lights rules are: Lamps are fed with permanent +12 volts on P and 0 volts on either B or PW. B allows local on/off switching at the lamp unit when selected ON and the 10AS controls via PW when the lamp unit is at DOOR. The 10AS alarm unit controls the lamps so that they switch on / off when doors are open / closed using the 0 volts side of the circuit via PW cables. It drives 0 volts on PW when the interior switch is in DOOR position (which selects PW rather than B). If the 10AS wants the lamps off it drives the PW wire to +12 volts and no current flows. A lamp is switched on by the 10AS driving this wire to 0 volts. The door sense (pillar switches) are supplying a 0 volts from the ground provided at their pillar screw, to the 10AS and are all connected in parallel via PU except the driver's door which as you have see, is on a separate circuit (SW) back to the 10AS. So passenger, 2nd row doors if you have them and the rear door, are all connected back on PW to the 10AS. Edit: Some clarity and also I think you need the wiring diagram for your vehicle.
  15. Yes but he is on a trip away from home and needs a solution now, (or at least on Tuesday 😀)
  16. Time will tell I think with mine. I have added the connection to the unused transmission oil temp warning lamp and finally closed up the dash after nearly five months. I hope it works as it is. @nickwilliams, can you not just post pics direct into the thread without using gallery albums?
  17. Oh dear. I presume that the problem with a float switch is that it would be very susceptible to the coolant sloshing around. So physically it might be stressed by that although electrically it could always be "slugged" with a timer to prevent spurious readings. What is the state of your reed switch? Is it still showing a clear change of state when liquid / no liquid when measuring continuity? As I said I think they fail through bad things happening to the contacts when asked to switch too much current. I haven't checked mine since a few days ago but the vehicle is still off the road. I'm fitting an air heater at the moment and then I will be back on the road at last and will see then if my coolant alarm is OK.
  18. Ah yes sorry, I should have read the thread at the top again. 🙄
  19. I don’t really understand this. Why would half throttle be the cause? Don’t doubt. Just don’t know why.
  20. if the glass side guides are weak they may allow the window to run "inboard" of the seal rather than tight up against it.
  21. Hi Steve - yes I think it's just about whether the reed switch in the float sensor can manage to supply enough current and not eventually weld itself. I think that the little Omron used here would be OK as a load and it should work long term. Glad to hear yours is too.
  22. Hello. With due respect to @dailysleaze, this is the circuit that I have used for my own level alarm. I'm also using the RR cap which is presenting 683 Ohms when the level is OK. However in my case the transistor will not switch off and this is because when the cap is "open circuit" there's still around 6v across the relay coil. The reason for this seems to be that the cap isn't an open circuit but in fact is something like 50K Ohms. This doesn't seem right but is what appears to be happening - its effectively a pull-up resistor. This is what is the cap circuit is presenting to me when I stick the Fluke across. State A is level ok and state B is when it should be open circuit. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I can do?? TIA EDIT: just to add that I'm wondering whether the transistor is needed at all. The tiny relay only pulls 12mA and that might be OK for the reed switch. It would probably fix the leakage current problem too??
  23. It could be a spit hose - turbo to intercooler or on to the inlet manifold. I had one and it was only obvious once the pipe was off the vehicle and only when squeezed.
  24. They could always add the diagnostics into the vehicle so it is integral. It would hurt dealers perhaps but what a comfort it would be to those who could use it.
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