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Everything posted by Peaklander

  1. I fitted my track rod yesterday and it has grease-able track rod ends, as does the drag link. Almost as an afterthought I asked Gwyn Lewis via email if the TREs are supplied pre-greased. They replied within a few minutes advising that no, they need grease, "about three pumps will do". It's a bit beefier than the old one!
  2. The heater you linked to on eBay looks 'complete' but it does need some other items. The loom is all there; you can see the big connector that has a clip that mates to the heater multi-way and the little one for the pump. The green one must be for the programmer. Also there are two fuses in a holder - the heater has two +12V feeds, so that's OK too. The loom looks well made. The pump has the rubber clamp / mount so that's OK. You need a length of combustion inlet pipe and an end for it and length of stainless exhaust pipe and a silencer (although this isn't obligatory) . These need the appropriate hose clips for the terminations and some support clamps for along their length. You will need a fuel tank pick-up and the appropriate fuel pipe from there to the pump with the necessary clips at the ends and supports. For the latter I used P-clips with rubber inserts. I ran the fuel pipes in a very narrow convoluted tube for protection. How you supply fuel is a whole extra story. I have a 300TDi and thought that a simple Tee of the line to the injection pump would work. It should have done but didn't until i fitted a pressure control valve. It might be much easier to use one of the little, separate fuel tanks. The heater needs to have a cowl on the cabin air inlet and on the outlet you probably need a short length of duct with a hose clip and an outlet cowl. It depends how you decide to 'use' the heated air. Oh and also there should be a thick seal that goes between the bottom of the heater and the mounting surface. Plus the fuel lines need olives and unions plus hose clips at the heater end.
  3. In fact our Golf's front "fog lamps" switch on individually during a sharpish (slow) turn, in a form of driver assist.
  4. I think he’s wrong. Front fog lamps and main beam on at the same time just isn’t correct. The high beams bounce straight back off the fog and blank your view.
  5. I bought a kit of parts from the eBay supplier called eberwebasto (I think Kirkhams in Mansfield). The directional air vent is a Webasto but the other stuff isn't branded. I fitted an exhaust "silencer" and wrapped the exhaust because I didn't want the excessive heat near the underside of my seatbox. You need to be carefully about routing the fuel line to ensure it is kept away from the exhaust. I ran mine in a narrow plastic conduit. The kit also contained the necessary clamps and also olives and unions for the fuel pipes. There are two sizes, with the pump-to-heater being a very small ID. On the input side you can choose. The pump needs to be inclined slightly towards the heater. The instructions show this. In operation the unit is very quiet inside the vehicle with the sound of the fan (variable) and the pulsing of the fuel pump which is barely discernible. Outside it's a different story. My D2 is new and at initial start-up it always goes to full-fire for a minute or so whatever the target temperature. With a cold interior of course this continues for some time. It is very noisy outside when this is happening, even with the muffled exhaust.. Some noise comes from the combustion air intake pipe too and I have wondered about a silencer on this too. Time will tell.
  6. You and I bought the same kit. Glad your drop arm came off easier than mine. I will swap my track rod in a week or so and get the tracking checked at the MOT which I'm just about to book. I know it shouldn't change as the new rod will be set to the same length but better to be sure.
  7. Yes keep it going! Let’s have some on-the-road pictures too.
  8. Great job. Better weather than in the Peak District too!
  9. Hi have a look in my chassis swap thread as there are pics and a discussion. Simply though, they come off the front of the tank, run across to the rhs and then tuck over the top of that crossmember (there’s a little clearance space think I think). Then along the top of the chassis rail until they bend up to the pump. Here’s a link to the correct page in my thread.
  10. I have mine in the Mudstuff locker with a cubby above it. This is good and bad. Good is that the cabin air inlet and outlet are well placed and access to the heater is easy for the loom (from fusebox in the battery box). Bad though in that the cubby is now very high and even though I am tall, I find it is taking a lot of getting used to. The Roamerdrive lever is also hard to reach but at least this isn't too frequently used. From underneath on the combustion side of things the pipe routing is easy. The only trouble I had was radiated heat from the exhaust which softened nearby underseal and grease flung up there from over zealous propshaft maintenance. I have scraped that away and used some exhaust wrap. Also I had to be careful with some sound deadening. This doesn't like getting too hot either.
  11. Ian, I'm really happy with our d2. Just had a short walking trip to the Lakes and it was on all evening and mornings till we got out and about. I have an 801 controller which doesn't provide any programming but I do like the way it works with the heater, modulating the output as the return air to the intake reaches the set point. Also the space heats up really quickly after the on button is pressed. Those first few minutes waiting are cold though!
  12. You are normally saying ‘continuity’ but say that you have also verified (using the voltage setting) that there is +12v at one of the pump connections. Now check if you have 0V at the other or simply hold a wire from that other connection to a local metal ground point.
  13. Yes, I was just checking further up the thread and realised remembered that we are of course talking about the later axle. You beat me to my edit!
  14. Ah so are you saying that one of these will fit in the Salisbury axle case along with an Ashcroft ATB?
  15. Ok understand now thanks. I should have looked at the ROW spec. The later axles just bolt-up then but with a longer prop. Are the TD5 and Tdci all the same so it doesn’t matter the exact age?
  16. Hope you don't mind a numpty question @BogMonster, I have a 110 TDi and it has a Salisbury rear axle. Reading this interesting thread and following through to investigate further, I see that the Ashcroft ATB isn't available for this type of axle. Have you changed yours or was it always something different (Rover)? For Salisbury axles is the only way, to go for a different brand of ATB and pay the additional money?
  17. Oh an 01367 tele. code. that brings back memories! I'll read your progress with interest. It's one of those 'possible changes' on my list. I follow the M57 group on fb and it's very busy. There's a lot of people with plenty of experience and options there. Good luck!
  18. Whoop! Don't know which side of Manchester you are in but if its "this" side please come out for a drive and say hello.
  19. Yes this, and the story of RG in the early 90s (and a little earlier) is that they had a major tie with Honda Motors who owned 10% of Rover Group and RG owned 10% of Honda UK Manufacturing. There had been design collaboration (Triumph Acclaim, Rover 200) and Longbridge made the Honda Concerto, fitting HUM engines to it as well as the 1.6 to the R200 and their own 1.4. Cowley also joined in with the larger Honda engine going in the Rover 800. The point is that a whole load of learning was underway when, in 1994 the ‘golden share’ that the government had in British Aerospace, owner of the rest of RG, ‘ceased’ and thus RG was allowed to be sold. That’s when BMW bought it. Things might have turned out differently if Honda has been successful in buying a larger share. They didn’t want to be seen to be taking over the whole company and tried to increase their stake substantially. This didn’t happen as BMW bought the lot and so the sharing by Honda of design, operating methods etc quickly ceased. What this different path might have meant for Land Rover is unknown but it wouldn’t have been bad.
  20. The hole for a sink that I saw being cut was done only with the plunge saw. There was no need for any holes in the corners. The plunge was done away from them and with the saw right down, the cut was made right into the corner. I’d only bought a circular saw a few weeks before seeing this plunge saw in use. ☹️
  21. Isn’t the idea with a plunge saw that the guide / track doesn’t need to be clamped? Somehow the saw action pushes it down onto the workpiece and it’s stickiness holds it there. I watched a joiner cut a worktop and I’m sure that was the advantage. If so, I’d swap my corded circular saw any day!
  22. I beg to differ. 😁 I drive a 110 Defender and there are plenty of waves in both directions. I’ve even seen waves from the other side of a motorway, admittedly mainly when abroad. Waving is between Series, 90/110 and Defenders. The only non wavers tend to be working vehicles; there are plenty of those in my area. Long may it continue.
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