pete3000 Posted January 10, 2022 Share Posted January 10, 2022 Have just received a new shiny chassis for the SWB Lightweight rebuild, had the P38 PS plate welded on at time of build. Keeping the original 2.25l 3 bearing petrol engine as its original to the release docs etc. Which steering pump will best drop onto the engine and where? P38 Pipes and reservoir have come with the box but wondering if i can swap the multi v pulley off a p38 pump and use e.g a defender 200 tdi waterpump pulley or something similar not a problem if it needs minor fettling/turning. Also Planning to remove the idler assembly to fit a 200tdi 12v alternator. TIA Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 10, 2022 Share Posted January 10, 2022 Get a P38 pump to be sure of the pressure. The pulley from a 19J or 200Tdi pump will fit directly in place of the serpentine pulley originally on the P38 pump. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted January 12, 2022 Author Share Posted January 12, 2022 Thanks when looking at P38 pumps there are some with banjo fittings and some with the steel pipe/o-ring straight out similar to oil cooler etc. Are the two interchangeable via the adapter boss? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 I can’t remember, but I think mine has an olive sealed fitting on the pump. The steering box are banjo bolt unions. Remember that the only high pressure line is the pump to steering box. The others are at atmospheric pressure or close to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted January 16, 2022 Author Share Posted January 16, 2022 Thanks Snagger, yes just trying to solve the HP line connection, it seems the 4.6 pump which has the 3 bolt holes and will take the 200tdi pulley is 95% of the way there, just need to see if i can find a hose with the 14/16mm banjo for the box and the o-ring/olive connection at the other or splice something up. The easier pump hydraulic wise looked to be the 2.5/4.0 but the pulley is fixed with an alen bolt/nut. It's just finding the path of least resistance/cost. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 16, 2022 Share Posted January 16, 2022 I took the old lines to a hydraulic specialist to reuse the ends with a detachable hose (straight threaded connections) in the middle that could easily be replaced when they age or if I reconfigure the engine bay. It cost me £20 to have both hoses made up. If you can make a mock up of the shape and length you need, they should be able to do yours in minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted January 23, 2022 Share Posted January 23, 2022 I used AN fittings and hose for mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted March 13, 2022 Author Share Posted March 13, 2022 Made a bit more progress on this now, used a 4.6 P38 pump which had the threaded hp connection rather than a banjo. It came with a cutoff pipe union so was able to confirm the thread and fitting is identical to a defender 300tdi pump. Useful as the defender pipe for this is £22 not £180. The only thing required to splice to a p38 hardline is a 8mm to 10mm hydraulic compression fitting at around £7. All the P38 hardline pipes are 10mm OD and the defender 300tdi 8mm OD. £70 QME500190 steering joint linkage, mates up to the p38 steering box (needs a rub with a round file on the box to allow the pinch bolt to go through) then slips nicely up to the late series 3/early defender column. A piece of 25mmx25mm box around 80-100mm long section allows the bottom of the column bearing to sit nicely on the old bulkhead support plate. One more ask...... (#Snagger) I have a new P38 drag link to cut down, assume I am cutting the (open) threaded end off then re-tapping 11/16 UNS RH tap? as the other end is welded up? Pete 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted March 13, 2022 Share Posted March 13, 2022 1 hour ago, pete3000 said: One more ask...... (#Snagger) I have a new P38 drag link to cut down, assume I am cutting the (open) threaded end off then re-tapping 11/16 UNS RH tap? as the other end is welded up? Pete Yes to cutting that end. I can’t remember the thread spec, but I’d expect it to be metric to use Defender rod ends, which are the same as late SIII, late RRC, all Discovery 1 and P38 and more easily available than the Imperial threaded type. I don’t remember one end being welded, but it was seven years ago that I did the job. The direction of the thread only matters if the other end has a screw-in rod end, in which case they have to be opposite threads like the track rod, Def or Series drag link and so on. If one end is fixed, the it doesn’t matter which direction thread you tap as you’ll be buying a corresponding rod end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted April 22, 2022 Author Share Posted April 22, 2022 To update this some more, the new £38 P38 drag link complete with TRE's was cut to give a length 160mm shorter (1015mm between tre's). to retain the use of the p38 adjuster thingy and the left hand threaded tre. I bought a 20.5mm reduced shank drill and an M22 x1.5 taper and M22 x 1.5 2nd tap to recut the threads and avoid welding etc. Pete 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hario' Posted September 1, 2022 Share Posted September 1, 2022 Thanks. Useful info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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