L19MUD Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 When I rebuilt my 200tdi 90 18 months ago (where has that time gone?!) I left the clutch alone as it had only done around 40k. Now it appears to have started to slip very occasionally under boost in 3rd/4th when towing. It does not slip other than that oddly. I was already planning on getting a rebuilt LT230 from Ashcrofts as the combined annoyance of the drivetrain slack in mine from centre diff wear and the whine that it has always had since being rebuilt before (60k ago I think) is beginning to drive me nuts on a long run. Top top all that off when I was back from a 30 mile round trip towing 3500kg today I noticed quite a bit of ATF dripping from the LT77. It seems this job needs to be bumped up the priority list and I need to make some decisions. The spec of the 90 is as follows; 285/75 R16 BFG Mud terrains Standard ratio LT230 (and I will keep it standard) Boost upped from 12psi to 15psi the same as a Disco Full width Allisport Intercooler with pump tweaked to suit it and the boost It tows 1000kg along with 2 Kayaks on the roof giving loads of wind resistance for hundreds of miles a year, normally on long runs and then spends quite a bit of time with 3500kg behind it locally towing a digger/other Landys/tipping trailer Clutch - recommended brands? I have fitted a lot of LUK self adjusting clutches to BMW's and had no issues. Do they do a Tdi clutch or what would you suggest? LT77 I presume they can only really leak from the front input seal or the rear output seal? I think it must be the rear seal leaking. Do I just need the seals or is there anything else to look out for. The LT77 shifts really nicely and had a new main shaft to resolve spline wear, along with a cross drilled shaft on the LT230 when rebuilt 60k ago so I am hoping to just fix the leak(s) that exist LT230 There are a lot of options on the Ashcroft site and I want to balance something reliable for the next 100k miles (I will never part with this truck) vs spending money that is not needed as this is not a competition truck on 37 inch swampers - Sleeved casing - this seems like a must? I would REALLY like to solve my gearbox leaks - ATB. There have been some other threads on this recently and I think I am veering towards this option. I can't see a single downside in my application other than cost? - Hi Cap sump. We do suffer from hot footwells on warm days when towing and this has got to help cut that down? - Intermediate shaft choices of reconditioned, OEM or New HD. Given I am trying to reduce drivetrain slack but it is not a competition truck then OEM would be the choice? - Rear output shaft are either reconditioned or £100 for a new OEM. Is the benefit here just drivetrain slack again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 For the clutch, use a clutch from a 130, as this is about 10mm bigger. Fits to your flywheel, I think mine was from Valeo. The seals between the gearbox and transfer box were both leaking on mine, but this has seen some severe abuse offroad. Replace the wear collar on the lt77 output shaft (with difficulty) and the O-rings in the 230 casing. No comments on the hi cap sump, but it can't hurt with your use. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy996 Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 I have a LUK clutch in my 200Tdi. It has, so far, been boringly reliable, (40k+). I released some of the springs out of the previous two clutches! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 Ive got a standard B&B I think. Whatever Autoparts were selling at the time. I tow a lot. Generally up around the 3-3.5 tonne mark, usually on a 17' Bed triaxle Ifor. A lot of my towing involves low ration off tarmac work. There's seven years and 57k in this clutch. It just chatters away. I used to have the bigger capacity sump on my 110, I will fit one to the Disco one day. Excellent bit of kit. My LT77 is origional, 29 years and 128K on it. No leaks, but the occasional seep after a long hot journey. My LT230 is from a 1989 RRC, that was, for some odd reason fitted at the factory. As an early August 93MY , the disco has all sorts of oddities. I have full service on it and ALL the records. When I went to fit a standard handbrake cable, it didn't fit, so I checked the LT230 serial number. Odd. Again, it doesn't leak. Although I've changed the out put flanges a couple of times over the years - I do run Redline 75W90 fully synthetic oil in the T case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted February 8, 2022 Author Share Posted February 8, 2022 Thanks all. The clutch issue is really odd - I really can't work out why it seems to do it when it does. I was 5610kg gross on the weighbridge today with an 18 foot 3 axle Bateson. I did not notice any clutch slip whilst loaded, dropped down to 3140kg on the way out and on my way home the clutch appears to slip at the exact same time as before. 4th gear when the turbo is coming up to 10psi boost I can hear the engine rev up without a corresponding change in speed. Coming off the throttle sorts it. It did not slip on the way there or back up some decent (for Suffolk) hills in 2nd or 3rd gear. Has to be the clutch but the characteristics are very strange I may as well change the clutch whilst the T box is off as it is not loads more work. Just want to make sure I get something that is definitely going to be reliable. I am sure mine was a B&B clutch when it was fitted. As an aside what are the LOF clutches like? Are they worth the extra £££? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted February 9, 2022 Share Posted February 9, 2022 Not sure if this is the sameon a Defender, but a D1 has a snail cam arrangement on the clutch pedal hinge pin. If this gets worn it can effect the operation of the pedal, but not so much as you would notice on your foot. I spent months chasing a gear change 'grab' after fitting a new slave cylinder. I knew the clutch operation was fine, because I used a poroscope attached to a phone to monitor the operation within the bellhousing. I was just about to set fire to the vehicle, when I had an inspriation and went to look at the GWAC we have in the barn. As I say, not sure if this is the same set up on a 110/90/Defender as I've never looked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted February 9, 2022 Share Posted February 9, 2022 Are you sure the clutch pedal fully disengages and frees the compensation hole in the master cylinder? It could be the system does not make a connection to the reservoir when the clutch pedal is in rest. this might cause the slave cylinder still press the clutch slightly when you expect it to be fully engaged. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted February 9, 2022 Author Share Posted February 9, 2022 Gear changes are nice and smooth but I agree checking there is freeplay at the clutch pedal and making sure the slave is not pressing the clutch slightly is a good idea. I have had this before on another Defender 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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