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jeremy996

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by jeremy996

  1. But it doesn't require too much in the way of design talent. Hopefully, JLRs corporate solicitors will have a go; I've heard they are rather fierce.
  2. Well, I'm back home and in one piece. The Land Rover is on my wife's hit list, so it needs to shape up or it will be scrapped/sold into slavery. i've been roll-starting it all week, parking it on slight inclines, heating the glow plugs and dropping the clutch when it was rolling. Getting it running on Le Shuttle was a bit fraught, the train is on the level, so the initial push didn't start it, so we had to push it over the join between the two carriages and get some speed up before I clambered back in and engaged first and dropped the clutch. The train stewards who saw the whole pantomime on the monitors, waved and mimed a feat of great strength! Suggestions for a decent starter motor? I'll pull this one off and see what is amiss; it's probably done 100k.
  3. Being able to follow orders, I have tried the jump lead from the negative terminal to the engine block. No change, so I guess the solenoid/starter is duff. Bloody thing! If I can get it rolling, I can start it within a metre or two, so I'm parking on a hill. Getting off at EuroTunnel Le Shuttle is likely to be fun.
  4. This will cause some of you a wry smile. I'm away in France with my wife and sister. My Land Rover 110CSW 200Tdi is playing up by refusing to start on the key. There is a click from the solenoid but no starter spinning. This morning it started with a jump start from a fellow visitor, but even with the jump, most of the times it just clicked. After a load of attempts it just started and then was fine for the morning. This evening it failed to restart at Disneyland Paris, so we roll-started it across the car park in reverse, (to take advantage of the slope). The battery seems to be OK- i've no method of testing it, but when its working the starter spins quickly and the ammeter shows only the usual amount of charge. Any suggestions to sort a sticky solenoid or suggestions of what else might be wrong? Any suggestions on independents in the area who may be able to fix it? The nearest town is Coulommiers. I have 2 sets of combi-spanners and a set of screwdrivers.
  5. I've been sent a mailer on the subject. http://view.grenadier.ineos.com/?qs=4f6ac00b27e80ec03f3f31fd0b47ed8d7fcbb68fbc25ab403a444fb9d6b6e16d2b3dcf10523c673b4c6db443b71d9b6e3ab2f70bd0f9dd0f3666ac14ce25256228b43b660bb9aec0 No clear pictures of the test vehicles, but the video clips look like a mutant Jap pickup. Looks like the marketing effort has started in a small way.
  6. A US view of the new Defender I wasn't quite expecting. Doug DeMuro comes up with a few opinions on the new Defender, suggesting the US pricing, positioning and styling will ht the sweet spot it may have missed in the UK.
  7. I suspect that's "Marketing" and they are getting them at a discount. Potentially even free, with everything bar fuel and insurance thrown in. Back in the days when I signed the cheques for a vehicle fleet, the discounts and special deals you could get for parcel of 40-50 vehicles were astonishing.
  8. I'm intrigued by the 9mm handguns book between the BMW 3 Series and Peugeot 406. Planning to do an "Elvis" on some recalcitrant vehicle?
  9. Looking at the website and video, I'd guess they are using Tesla batteries, (which would explain the 75/85KWh confusion). You can only use what is available in the re-purposing aftermarket. One day there will be kits of parts to convert vehicles to electrickery. I've been told of a US kit for an E-Type already, together with VW Beetle, VW Bus and in the UK, Fiat 500, (the original diddy one).
  10. I used to make quite a bit of beer money finishing off other people's kit cars. Very few were fault free first time, that's why Caterham and Westfield have post build checks as part of their build process. The clutch cable bodge is a classic example of "There's nothing more permanent than a temporary fix!"
  11. I run cooking oil, usually used, normally soya, using a two tank system usually starting up on diesel. Starting up from cold on oil, (if I forgot to purge while hot), produces a very slow start, even with lots of glow plug, clouds of white smoke and lumpy running until it gets up to temperature. Cooking oil is much more viscous that diesel and the standard lift pump struggles with cold oil. (At some point I need to source and install an electric lift pump and an inertia cut off switch). We have had quite a warm winter; try and get it hot on diesel and see if the symptoms persist.
  12. If, like me, you are a proper cheapskate offer pizza and beer to two burly mates. If you really, really need to buy tools, a combination of a jack and long axle stands. I'm a long way from you but I have an engine crane and balancer that gets used for lifting heavy stuff up and sometimes gets lent out. (You would be amazed by the number of jobs you can use an engine crane for, other than lifting and removing engines).
  13. 90 now looking like a truck again - front, wings and bonnet back on. Hope to drive it soon!

  14. I now own a 110CSW and a 90 van with windows. As a family wagon the 110 is great; space, versatility and presence. It does around 30mpg but is noisy, slow(ish), cold, (it's a 110 200Tdi, they are all like that!), and needs 5 shunts for a 3 point turn. The 90 is small, nimble, slow, less noisy, (it's a 2.5NA) and the heater is hot! It is also surprisingly small; 2 people and some luggage and it's full. What's your budget? Any Land Rover will be OK off road, even a full, blingy RRS, but your budget will define what's possible.
  15. At the moment new oil, (GM Soya, Costco), is about 80p a litre, with filtered used oil a little more. I've done 180,000+ on it with a two tank setup. The HMRC rules can be a little complex with a 2500l per annum exemption on used oil, but road fuel duty due on new oil used as fuel. I don't spend £3k a year on mine with professional servicing and three services a year, so I guess you were bringing the vehicle up to a usable state. I would not describe a Defender as cheap to run, but neither is it ruinous, (especially when compared to a tired D3 or RRS).
  16. Expecting to get back the money you have sunk in almost any used car is delusional, it just does not happen, especially if you pay for labour. I have only made a significant profit on one car I bought, fixed and sold - a Ferrari 308GTB and Enzo Ferrari died just as I took it to market! My 110 was £3.5k to buy, £10k+ to rebuild and I have just sunk £4.5k into an engine/head/injector pump/injectors rebuild. it is still far from perfect, (but the 180,000 miles I've done since the rebuild don't help!) 8 years after a heavy rebuild with galvanised chassis, I now need 4 doors, a bulkhead and a quality paint job. (My wife has requested sound proofing and heated seats as well). What's it worth? God knows, but I'm not selling. As for your 90, I'd expect it to be worth around £6-7k, as that is the sort of money you will need to pay for a vehicle in similar condition. The problem with selling it is that replacing it will be a piggin' nightmare! There are a lot of tarted up, over priced dogs and some very, very optimistic owners out there. Before my ex-Ebay 110, I had a Vauxhall Vectra Estate from new, (1998). It was £17,500 to buy and was essentially worthless in 2006 after 110,000 miles. Compared to that, I see my 110 as a bargain; it's more versatile, better looking, worth more, easier to work on, has a social scene and good parts availability.
  17. Before dropping the gearbox, have a look in the top and make sure that none of the selector mechanism has come undone and jammed. You should be able to get to most of it by taking the middle seat or cubby box out and the middle plate. If you see nothing amiss there, then the box is coming out anyway.
  18. I've got clients who have had electric vehicles for a few years now and they all say they won't go back. (Mainly Tesla S or BMWi3). Most people's daily journeys are under 40 miles, so 'range anxiety is over stated. The 'not being able to charge it from my flat' is a real problem though; the current early adopters are charging at home, so the car's 'tank' is full every morning. There are changes on the supply side that need looking at; soon all new external power points for car charging will be electronically identifiable - giving government a way of taxing motive electricity differently from domestic electricity. A Tesla S 100D could do 95% of my driving, (they don't do towing especially well), but the £100k purchase price is a lot of a downer.
  19. Happy New Year; I'm hoping for a better year in fewer unexpected LR bills, 5th falling off and 200Tdi engine blowing it's oil out have been wallet maiming! (Putting a 90 back on the road suggests I'm delusional!)
  20. After 5th gear fell off and the cooking oil tank leak, the engine needed a full rebuild. The Land Rover is now fine: my wallet needs therapy!!

  21. You probably need to warm it up. All of the standard underseal products become reluctant to leave the can if they are cold. They need a lot of shaking too. Stick it in a bucket of hot water for 10 minutes and give it a long shake.
  22. cooking oil tank now leaking - looks like a stone strike!

  23. I think all Land Rovers were made to be difficult; 5th gear has fallen off mine.
  24. I have looked at the guide and decided that my fitter days are long past! (I've been an accountant/IFA for 30+ years). It is a daily, (20k a year), but I have access to alternative vehicles. For the moment I have been promised a "known working" second hand replacement, just got to fetch it on Saturday, 170 miles each way.
  25. It looks similar to the OX flatpack truck: https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/worlds-first-flat-pack-truck-shell-commissions-prototype-india-trip That is a Gordon Murray design, so I guess this design stuff is hard.
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