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Extended Studs for Wolf Wheels on a 1963 IIA


GeorgetheLandy

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On 3/26/2022 at 8:21 AM, Snagger said:

Land Rover increased the stud length for these wheels, but Hobson Industries did not retrofit them in the Tithonus or other refurbishment programmes for the older 90s and 110s when fit with Wolf wheels and they had the same issue, but it was deemed safe.

If you can legally get away with using SIII or Defender nuts, so they are flat on the outboard end and reduce the problem, then I’d recommend that - it covers the entire thread and so prevents the studs from rusting or the thread being peened by impacts, which is a big advantage too.

If you have to change the studs for the authorities, then Britpart studs were about one tenth the price of genuine.  I stumped up the higher cost because, well, Britpart…

I live in the States now, having moved from England.  Will take a look at the Britpart option so thanks for that!  Also just found a set of Land Rover wheel nuts that have a more narrow collar that may fit through the hole in the Wolf Rims and provide a more secure fit with standard studs.  Also have a set of LR flat nuts too, so if all else fails I will use them. 
Thanks for the advice.

G

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Thanks to all for the great comments.  I have a couple of options to try for now and if I don’t feel happy with them I will buy an extended set of studs or perhaps even turn some grade 8 BSF stock down to size and created the flared end so I can make a custom set.  It most likely won’t be the cheapest alternative but at least I will have the wheels I want on my Landy.  
Once I figure out the best alternative I will post an end result and share any feedback with you.  
I live over here in the US now and to be honest am not certain of the laws on nuts, studs and wheels, especially given it’s a 1963 vehicle but I will find a quality solution.  
Really appreciate all the feedback and help and even some of the opinions, I’ll keep you posted.

G

Edited by GeorgetheLandy
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/30/2022 at 6:58 AM, GeorgetheLandy said:

Thanks to all for the great comments.  I have a couple of options to try for now and if I don’t feel happy with them I will buy an extended set of studs or perhaps even turn some grade 8 BSF stock down to size and created the flared end so I can make a custom set.  It most likely won’t be the cheapest alternative but at least I will have the wheels I want on my Landy.  
Once I figure out the best alternative I will post an end result and share any feedback with you.  
I live over here in the US now and to be honest am not certain of the laws on nuts, studs and wheels, especially given it’s a 1963 vehicle but I will find a quality solution.  
Really appreciate all the feedback and help and even some of the opinions, I’ll keep you posted.

G

Just a quick follow up on the studs and Wolf Wheels.  I ordered the more shallow wheel nuts (original Land Rover Part) and they fit perfectly on the original studs when placed on the studs with the chamfered end facing in, seems like the chamfer actually helps seat the wheel in the correct position taking any wear off the hubs.  I do not have to replace some of the original studs as the previous owner must have simply screwed them in with and used lock-tite as the studs popped out in one event and may have damaged the thread.  When the weather warms up here a little more I will take off all the hubs, replace all the bearings, seals, check all the studs are correctly installed and hopefully that should take care of business there.  This is one of the last jobs to do so George is nearly ready for a mini adventure somewhere soon.  Plan on taking my photography gear and such and getting lost for a week or two somewhere nice. 

On another positive note, I did finish installing my new Fairey Capstan winch, after waiting for some parts that never made it the first time around.  Still need to find a good rope as the first rope I bought was advertised as manilla but actually turned out to be the synthetic version called Pro Manilla, so that was no good for what I wanted and was donated.  Still hopefully a new manilla rope should be on its way soon from LR Bits and I should be in business.  Roof rack is installed and I am about to do some research into solar panel systems and roof rack tents, so any links or advice very welcome.  

Will keep you posted on the journey and thanks to all for the advice along the way.

G

 

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5 hours ago, GeorgetheLandy said:

I am about to do some research into solar panel systems and roof rack tents, so any links or advice very welcome.  

If you look out my 127 camper thread in the member's vehicles section that's got a twin solar install - TL;DR it's cheap eBay stuff for the win, and all the marketing is lies whether it's cheap or expensive. :lol:

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Centring the wheel is exactly the purpose of the wheel nut bevels - Land Rover steel wheels (including aftermarket) should not quite contact the hubs once fully fitted; only their alloy wheels centre on the hub.

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On 4/9/2022 at 12:58 PM, GeorgetheLandy said:

 I ordered the more shallow wheel nuts (original Land Rover Part) and they fit perfectly on the original studs when placed on the studs with the chamfered end facing in,

 

Where did you order the shallow lugs from?

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On 4/14/2022 at 8:25 AM, Kohler said:

Where did you order the shallow lugs from?

Rovers North, they fit really well. Centred the wheel when it was jacked up to keep it off the FWH and the tightened the nuts and they finished centring the wheels.  Job done and they only cost $24’ish for the full set: https://www.roversnorth.com/parts/plc480_lug_nut_1_1_16_series_iia

 

 

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