Filbee Posted July 9, 2022 Share Posted July 9, 2022 I've just rebuilt my swivels, which involved replacing the stub axle and CV joint on one side due to the stub axle needle roller bearing having collapsed and wrecking the bearing surface on the CV joint. When I separated the CV joint from the driveshaft, it popped off with a couple of smacks from my dead-blow hammer, but there was no spacer evident between the CV joint and the driveshaft. I only realised that maybe there should have been one after I'd refitted everything and the truck is back on it's wheels... My truck is a 2006 110 TD5 hardtop. My question is: Should there have been a spacer fitted, and is ok to drive without one in place? There's a square shoulder on the driveshaft behind the CV joint, and room for a small spacer to fit. The CV joint seems to fit quite nicely on the driveshaft without it 🤔 What do you reckon folks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 9, 2022 Share Posted July 9, 2022 Check against the chassis & axle numbers in here, https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1228/7048/7116/642/7191 I'm not sure if later axles have that spacer, it's item 4 in the above link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filbee Posted July 9, 2022 Author Share Posted July 9, 2022 Thanks Western. I'll have a scratch around tomorrow and see if I can find the axle code 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 9, 2022 Share Posted July 9, 2022 It will or should be on top of the axle longer tube between diff housing & breather. On later vehicles the serial number is dot punched whereas earlet are proper number stamps in the metal, a wire brush, damp cloth & torch will help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filbee Posted July 10, 2022 Author Share Posted July 10, 2022 (edited) Found the axle code without too much trouble 👍 It was a dot-punched code as expected for a 2006 and was below the weld on the longer side facing the front. And it was punched upside down 🤔 29M if that means anything! Edited July 10, 2022 by Filbee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filbee Posted July 10, 2022 Author Share Posted July 10, 2022 While I think about it, with regard to chassis numbers... I see lots of references to things like "up to LAxxxxxx" "from XAxxxxxx" and so on... Mine only has one letter before the last 6 digits, as in: SALLDHAxxxAxxxxxx Where does that fit into the number sequence when trying to work out which bits to order? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 10, 2022 Share Posted July 10, 2022 VIN are 17 digits long My1989 110CSW has FA before the last 6 numbers, F being the model year [1990] & A is Solihull you should have a letter or a number before the A 2006 = 6 as on here https://www.landrover.co.uk/ownership/identify-model-year.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filbee Posted July 10, 2022 Author Share Posted July 10, 2022 Ah, that makes sense! Mine is indeed 6Axxxxxx So when looking at parts, and it says "upto KAxxxxxx" or "from LAxxxxxx", how does that fit with the date codes in the link above? Apologies if this is basic stuff that most people understand already. I'm keen to learn so I can make sure I order the right bits when I need to! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 10, 2022 Share Posted July 10, 2022 So yours will be from LA as 6A is a later model year code. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filbee Posted July 10, 2022 Author Share Posted July 10, 2022 (edited) Excellent. So the ones that say "XA onwards" would be 1999 onwards? Edited July 10, 2022 by Filbee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filbee Posted July 10, 2022 Author Share Posted July 10, 2022 And what about the 29M axle code? Can I find out anything useful from that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 10, 2022 Share Posted July 10, 2022 Yes to XA onwards, the axle code would be within the parts list for that spacer ring I linked to earlier. If the axle serial number does not appear go by the VIN code XA onwards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filbee Posted July 10, 2022 Author Share Posted July 10, 2022 (edited) The numbers didn't include 29M. They only went up as far as 23L, so I'll be going by the XA onwards chassis number. So with that in mind I've ordered a couple of TYF000010 spacer rings, and I'll pull the driveshaft and CV joint out when I can summon up the enthusiasm and fit the spacer. I can't see that it's going to cause any major issues pottering about locally without the spacer ring for a week or two, given that it didn't have one for goodness knows how long! Thanks for taking me through the chassis codes Western 👍 Edited July 10, 2022 by Filbee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 10, 2022 Share Posted July 10, 2022 Sounds good, is that the first time the axle has been stripped & worked on since you bought it, I'm wondering if it's working OK without the spacers if they were actually factory fit or if a previous owner has left the out, Your welcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filbee Posted July 10, 2022 Author Share Posted July 10, 2022 It's the first time I've delved into the front axle and the previous owner was Severn Trent Water. I don't have any history and I don't know how fastidious these utility companies generally are at "doing it by the book", or just doing the minimum they can get away with. Seems a bit odd to miss out that spacer as I don't imagine it's something that needs to be changed due to wear and tear. Do they have a tendency to fall off and disappear under the nearest cupboard, or do they generally stay stuck on the halfshaft once you knock the CV joint off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 10, 2022 Share Posted July 10, 2022 Mine stayed put until I knocked the drive shaft out of the cv joint, my 110 is a early 10 spline axle, I doubt the previous owners would open up the axle if there was no problem in service, I'm not sure what the later axles have at the cv joint end, hopefully another member will drop in this thread & add more info. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawklord Posted July 11, 2022 Share Posted July 11, 2022 I had the same question a few years ago for my 1994 300TDI and there is a post on this forum if you search for it. I ended up fitting the spacer as the splined part of the CV measures 22mm and the shaft splined length up to the clip ring is 30mm meaning that there is 8mm 'spare' which happens to be the length of the spacer TYF000010 so I 'assumed' that is should be there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filbee Posted July 15, 2022 Author Share Posted July 15, 2022 (edited) Well folks, I've had a fun evening after work! After ordering the spacer rings and some new CV circlips, plus another stub axle gasket I was able to reassemble my CV joint and half shaft and put the axle and hub back together. It turns out I didn't need the spacer ring after all, despite what the parts listing and manual suggested 😵 All that effort pulling everything to bits and getting covered in grey moly grease, only to find that if I put the spacer ring on the half shaft, the CV joint wouldn't be able to slide on far enough to clear the circlip. I measured the length of the half shaft from the circlip groove to the end of the spacer ring and it was about 19mm. I then did my best to measure the length of the splined section on the inside of the CV joint, and I reckon it was about 24mm. So no way was that going to work! So I've put it all back together exactly as it was before I took everything to bits, with no spacer ring. There's very little movement of the CV joint on the halfshaft. Maybe a mm or two in and out, but that seems ok. Lesson learned! Maybe this will be of use to anyone else working on a late TD5... Pic of the end of the halfshaft And one of the spacer ring to show how far it covers the splined. I forgot to take a picture of it before I removed it and put the circlip on, but you get the idea. Edited July 15, 2022 by Filbee 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted July 15, 2022 Share Posted July 15, 2022 One check that's doable without removing it from the shaft (which I found after forgetting the spacer.... with the CV pushed onto the halfshaft, if it needs the spacer it will lock the CV from bending easily if you push it too far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted July 16, 2022 Share Posted July 16, 2022 A pain in the ass for sure but at least you've sorted it out. Not something you want playing on your mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filbee Posted July 16, 2022 Author Share Posted July 16, 2022 3 minutes ago, Maverik said: A pain in the ass for sure but at least you've sorted it out. Not something you want playing on your mind. Yes, I couldn't have left it as it was because I would have had that nagging doubt I'd not done it right 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filbee Posted July 16, 2022 Author Share Posted July 16, 2022 I'd be interested to see what other people's shafts look like from the same era ( no sniggering at the back 😁) as a comparison. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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